New to me 2017 fleet - how to wire into truck - 2016 Tacoma

I installed the Redarc BCDC40 on my camper before I upgraded the wiring. I was quite pleased with the results, plus it also has a small MPPT solar charger built in to it. I went from charging the camper batteries at around 3-6 amps to charging them at 20-30amps. Honestly, I think that the upgraded wiring wasn't really necessary after I installed this.

You may want to consider finding somebody to do the installation for you. It was not super difficult but it wasn't completely straightforward either. The camper cabinetry comes apart easier than it looks like, which is a plus when it comes to running heavier cables from the power distribution area to the battery. I have a shell so yours may be a bit different. Sorry, I don’t have any pics of it.
 
We are wired for solar and were given a small dettached 40W panel from PO - but we will upgrade and mount solar (100w?) on roof and a friend advised to get a solar charge controller - so if I am hearing you correctly this reddac will kill 2 birds with one stone?

As with all things - I will tackle it myself and seek help if/when i **** it up - otherwise there is not sport :)
 
I suppose the advantage or the DCDC charger is I can throw in the supplied 10ga wiring to the truck to get rolling then upgrade with charger when it arrives.
 
rando said:
I don't think you can use the trolling motor with 4AWG wire. You would have to splice to the 10AWG wire on the plug, which would mean you really should fuse the circuit for 10AWG, as the rating is determined by the smallest wire in the circuit. If you upgrade the wire, you will also need to switch the connector for a higher current plug that can accept the correct wire. That said, using the stock wire (which is rated to 60A) that you already have and using a DC-DC charger may be a more cost/effort effective solution than upgrading the wiring.

As to airbags, I have given up on getting mine leak free. Sometimes they will hold pressure for months, sometimes they leak out in a day or two. My solution is an on board compressor with a paddle valve. When on a trip I use them to level, so we check/adjust the pressure every day.
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rando, how do you figure 10g wire is good for 60A? I always thought it was 30A?
https://www.cerrowire.com/products/resources/tables-calculators/ampacity-charts/
 
FYI
We are doing our second round of FWC camper. Our local dealer when asked will put in heavier gauge wire.I got the impression I was not the first to bring up skimpy 10 g. wire. Saves me from redoing the cables. So I am grateful for that. After living off the grid 25 years efficiency is always on the forefront of our home on wheels. I learned alot having a FWC of our own to take check out systems what worked for us and not, So on the second round I am I am doing upgrades that meet our needs Hoop
 
Would it then be of benefit to crimp 4 or 6 Ga wire to the female trolling motor receptacle and run it forward to truck battery?

I unwrapped my FWC supplied wiring harness and see that they simply crimped the wire to pigtails coming out of the receptalce, and if it helps with voltge drop I dont see why not. I have ordered a 60A breaker per Rando's comment.

I will leave truck wiring alone for now but also get a DCDC charger - been reading up and getting my head into that.

Was just thinking if I am going through process to run wire - may as well get optimal charging while I can. Does this make sense?
 
Does the trolling motor connector have an Amperage rating? Wouldn't want to exceed that. That said, you are unlikely to be pulling more than 40A through it unless you get a very large DC-DC converter.

Otherwise, yes, running thicker wire now makes sense.
 
Vic Harder said:
Does the trolling motor connector have an Amperage rating? Wouldn't want to exceed that. That said, you are unlikely to be pulling more than 40A through it unless you get a very large DC-DC converter.

Otherwise, yes, running thicker wire now makes sense.
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Not that I could see. I ended up throwing in the wire I had and figure I can swap it out later without much problem. I got bunged up trying to figure out crimping rings etc to heavier guage wire and just wanted to get it done.
 
PaulT said:
If you can visually identify your the connector here, you should be able to get the amperage rating & wire size.
https://www.westmarine.com/trolling-motor-accessories
Paul
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Thanks - didnt see it exactly but closest one I saw said 70A - I will email Gary at FWC to ask what they sold me.

BTW - Where exactly should I measure the Amperage of the truck charging. I put my multi meter on the camper battery terminals while truck was running and didnt get a reading
 
A multimeter is usually limited to measuring 10 amps or so and requires disconnecting the positive or negative terminal from the battery and inserting the meter into the circuit. Because 10 amps is relatively low current, it is likely that you may blow the multimeter fuse. With the multimeter set to volts, you cannot measure current.

Your best choice is to install a Baterry Moniitor. These typically use a current shunt to measure current going into the battery and coming out of the battery. It adds up the current readings over time and also determine the battery's state of charge. Energy being supplied by the battery to the various devices subtract from the state of charge and energy going into the battery from solar, truck alternator, and shore power add to the state of charge. This gives you realtime knowledge of how much energy is stored in the battery at any time.

You get both the current going to and from the battery and the total energy stored in the battery. You will be able to determine how much longer you can remain camping with a cold fridge of if you need to find shore power to keep your food safe.

There are several makers of these devices. One popular among the forum members is Victron.

Paul
 
Another question please,

Aparently the Gen 3 Tacomas have a slightly taller bed and when I have camper in the truck it seems some or most of the weight is on the bed rails which I presume is no bueno. I bought another rubber bed liner that is 3/8" thick and now I have about 1/8" gap between camper and top of bed rails, I can slide a piece or cardboard between the 2 with a bit or resistance. Is that enough or could the truck be flex and give me problems down the road? My gut sais it should be fine unless doing rock crawling type stuff which I really dont do.

BTW - is there a trick or hack to make the turnbuckles easier - or is it some sadistic hazing ritual for newb FWC owners to figure out?
 
When I installed my Fleet on my 2019 Ranger, I needed to raise the camper and I recall that a minimum 1/2" was recommended.

10 years ago I invested in TorkLift Derringer FastGuns and have never looked back. They are about $105 now, and you may only be able to use them on the front two tie downs with the Tacoma. You will also have to play with different sized links to fit them. After installing them though, you need to check them once after driving some rough roads, and that's it.

With our Eagle on a 2005 Tacoma which needed turnbuckles for the back two tie-downs, I mounted outward facing screw eye bolts below the access door. Heavy duty re-usable plastic ties through the screw eye and the turnbuckle kept the turnbuckles from loosening. I did have two ties break over the years, so a visual check now and again is needed.
 
Jack said:
When I installed my Fleet on my 2019 Ranger, I needed to raise the camper and I recall that a minimum 1/2" was recommended.

10 years ago I invested in TorkLift Derringer FastGuns and have never looked back. They are about $105 now, and you may only be able to use them on the front two tie downs with the Tacoma. You will also have to play with different sized links to fit them. After installing them though, you need to check them once after driving some rough roads, and that's it.

With our Eagle on a 2005 Tacoma which needed turnbuckles for the back two tie-downs, I mounted outward facing screw eye bolts below the access door. Heavy duty re-usable plastic ties through the screw eye and the turnbuckle kept the turnbuckles from loosening. I did have two ties break over the years, so a visual check now and again is needed.
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Awesome - thanks - will look into that. Wonder if there is enough room in there to clamp it down. Would be nice if there was some sort of closing gate on the turnbuckle hooks - like a carabiner,

If I need a half inch I would have to go get more rubber I guess.
 
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