Non-fused electrical circuits on Shell models

[RC Pilot Jim]

[SIZE=14pt] This is a Public Safety announcement[/SIZE]
[SIZE=14pt]The bottom line…Check your circuits for fuses. No fuses...Don't delay...Have them installed before there is a fire'[/SIZE]

[SIZE=14pt]The story…..[/SIZE]
I have an Eagle shell with lights, Fantastic Fan, 12 volt accessory ports. When I added the top-loading Engle refrigerator I had my local shop run a dedicated line and port just for the Refer. The installer added an in-line 10 amp fuse.

My brain processed that fact at the time…….Never giving thought that the rest of the circuits (fan, lights, or 12 volt plugs) are NOT-fused…

Than I thought back about an event 6 months ago… purchased a 12 volt tire compressor to air back up when returning to pavement after letting air out of tires when in the back country. Plugged into the accessory port in truck…turned it on…and blew the 15 amp fuse. Replaced the fuse.

Then plugged it into the 12 volt port in camper…..compressor worked fine….and I wondered about that…for a few months……I must be getting old as the brain is not functioning.

I reviewed the specs on the compressor…It draws 20 amps !!! No wonder it blew a fuse in the truck….and it didn’t blow the fuse in the camper because there is NO FUSE.

The good Lord was looking out for me as I could have (should have ) had a fire.

 

[JimW]

I have a 2012 Hawk shell purchased new and installed at the factory. Mine has multiple fuses installed by FWC. A 30 amp under the hood, a 5 amp going to my factory installed 12v accessory plug and another unknown but factory installed. I think it's for the solar plug but I can't see the rating as it's turned the other way. You might want to check again.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Great that you have one, Jim....please reply with a photo of yours if you have one.

I shall take a picture and post it here...No fuse panel....I don't have the iOTA converter panel either on my 2012 Eagle. If the panel was optional at the time I bought my shell I didn't know it ...or I would have purchased it

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

See picture of battery compartment

In this photo the reader can see the Three white wires connected to the push/pull main switch. Two on right are "Hot" wire and dedicated fused circuit for compressor fridge. Single white wire on left is combined(lights, fan, 12 volt outlet) NOT-fused circuit.

And the panel above the wheel well housing - clean no fuse panel...

 

[billharr]

Looks like you only have one circuit breaker.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Yes Bill just the pull/push silver topped main one....

Wonder how many more are like mine??

 

[JimW]

Looks like we have a similar set up. What I'm calling a fuse is really a circuit breaker (electrical protection) With the inline replaceable 5 amp fuse protecting the accessory port. I would say that FWCampers leave the factory with all the necessary components and protection in place

 

[billharr]

Jim this is your circuit breaker. You will need to look at it to see the size, amps.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

JimW,
I asked Brenda at FWC for the recommended fuse sizes. She said 10 amp for the fan and lights and 15 amp for the 12 volt plugs.

The two white (pos) wires going to the push/pull main switch are 10 gauge....I haven't identified the devices they are attached to, however I believe one is the fan and the other is the incandescent light fixtures that I converted to LED.

I have access to the 12 volt plug wires however they appear to be 18-20 gauge ...not 10-12 gauge which is reason fuse rating is 5 amp . These wires do not connect to the push/pull switch so they appear to be "spliced" into the fan or light circuit (will check this out this week).

 

[camper101]

Stupid question: how is one of those circuit breakers different from a fuse?

I see that I have a circuit breaker (which I think protects the lights). Everything else is behind removable blade fuses.

 

[PaulT]

Fundamentally, a fuse protects one time and then is replaced because it is destroyed in the process. A circuit breaker can be reset after it protects the circuit from an overload by removing the power, fixing the problem, resetting the breaker, and restoring the power.

Paul

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Maybe FWC didn't fuse the circuits because of the circuit breaker? Will ask them that question next.

 

[Ethergore]

Isn't that circuit breaker between the separator and the battery? There would need to be another as the power leaves the battery and goes to accessories if that's the case.

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Hey Jim[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Thanks for posting.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]FWC is very diligent about added fuses where ever & whenever possible.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]We install a thermal breaker on the firewall of the truck.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]In most all shell model campers these days we also add a thermal breaker fuse, an in-line fuse(s), or a small fuse block inside the camper (one or more of these, depending on what options are installed in the camper).[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]The power roof vent fan has its own fuse, so that has some added protection.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]The interior lights and 12 volt outlets will need to be fused somewhere though. Whether it is an in-line fuse at the battery, a thermal breaker fuse, of a small fuse block, they should be installed.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]FWC is getting away from the custom work requests like we did for your camper so we can have consistency on the production line of how & where items are installed.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]There are also many things customers should be careful of when they start adding their own components inside the camper, or having aftermarket shops do additional wiring inside the camper. If people are going to build out the interior themselves, add refrigerators, solar systems, etc., it is very important that they also take precautions to do the wiring correctly and add fuses if & when necessary. Most shell model campers don’t come with much for wiring.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]I would be glad to mail you a couple of in-line fuses that you can install at your 12v outlets or at the aux. camper battery terminal to help give you added protection if you like.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]We want to make sure you are happy.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Just shoot me an e-mail and I will put some in the mail.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]I will also Talk with Tom & the Production Team so they can review the shell model wiring if needed. From talking with the guys on the production line this morning, all shell model wiring and fuse details seem to be in order with new camper builds, as I expected.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]But that said, FWC and myself want to say "Thank You" for bringing this topic up so we can review how things have been done in the past, how we are doing it today, and what we can do to make it better in the coming years.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Thanks Jim[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]See you soon at the So Cal Rally in Oct.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt][/SIZE]



[SIZE=10.5pt].[/SIZE]

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Thanks Stan for clearing up the confusion.

 

[PaulT]

Stan,
I got my Hawk this summer and would really like a wiring diagram, especially for the charging system. I have the Zamp Solar charge controller.

The backlight on the controller never goes off unless on shore power and the Iota is at full charge state. I have been throwing a cloth over the controller but Zamp says it the backlight should go out after a while. Wife says the nightlight is too bright.

Any ideas?
Thanks,
Paul

 

[DesertDave]

PaulT

My Zamp backlight also wouldn't turn off after dark. You can pull the fuse in the hot lead between the battery and controller, and then replace it after 10 count. The controller will go through a quick diagnostics routine, then the backlight will go off. This will work only in the dark. I wired in a switch to do the same thing to turn it off at bedtime.

 

[PaulT]

DesertDave,

Thank you for the tip. I guess I have a switch to mount and wire up. I have been amazed how bright that backlight is at night. I believe I'll use a momentary NC pushbutton switch. That way I won't forget to turn the controller back on.

searched for "nc push button switch" Found several at Amazon,

Now need to determine the current rating needed. My panels are fused at 10 amps behind the controller but haven't found the controller to battery fuse yet. Where was your fuse located?

Paul

 

[DesertDave]

PaulT,

I have the front dinette Grandby, so everything is shoved to the rear. The fuse on the + lead to battery from controller on mine was right at the battery end of the lead.. Both lines from the roof panel to the controller are fused, fuses are behind controller against my sink. The fuse in battery compartment was 10 amps, which is too small for the 15A rating of my controller. I changed it up to a 15A, works fine with roof and portable panels (100W each) feeding single controller.

 

[PaulT]

Thanks, DesertDave.

I have the front dinette Hawk so mine sounds similar to yours. I found the individual solar panel fuses. Mine are also 10 amps. I didn't see a fuse to the battery which is why I asked. Guess I need to check again.

The Blue Sea Circuit Wizard app recommends 30 or 35 amp rating for the fuse. If you are running close to the 15 amps, the 15 amp fuse could blow after an hour or so of use.

Paul