O-ring replacement

[DirtyDog]

I'm helping MikeDahlager repost some info he had posted in a Yahoo group.


O-ring replacement:
general specifications: Buna/N/70/#115
where Buna/N = nitrile
70 = material softness
#115 = dimensions of O-ring = 7/8" O.D. x 11/16" I.D. x 3/32" thickness
(I.D. = internal diameter, O.D. = outer diameter)
(Fastenall part number: 66827, price $1.38 / package of 25)


replacement cylinder specifications:
brass, one inch outer diameter, .065 wall thickness

I found both of these parts locally at a rubber shop that sold parts for pneumatic systems and at the local metal supply shop. I also found them on the web at http://www.smallparts.com/

 

[Rusty]

are these for the smaller diameter pistons in the older models?

 

[craig333]

I have one of these http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=8v554b

Handy and wasn't that much.

 

[ntsqd]

Looks to me like that would be a Parker No. 2-115, should be able to find that size O-Ring just about anywhere (McMaster, Grainger, real hardware stores, etc.). The "2-115" is a broadly standardized o-ring part number in the U.S.

 

[thisoldcamper]

I'm in the process of replacing mine. Here's what they look like from a 1978 Alaskan.

 

[Tarrapin Mallard]

So what is the oil? I am new to them, and think I have a stock 1969. I need to bleed it, but I want to be sure to put the right stuff in first. After I get into it I can change everything out.

 

[huskyrunnr]

I use John deere low viscosity hy-gard transmission and hydraulic oil.

A long time ago, I tried hydraulic jack fluid. Man was that a mess. Leaked past the rings like a sieve.

 

[Mike S.]

I am using auto transmission oil. I tried standard hydraulic oil and it was to thick in the winter, took a long time to raise the roof. I had one of the rams crack at the bottom, (2 quarts of oil everywhere ) putting the new on in I found a lot of junk in the bottom of the ram so I will remove the rams flush my system and install new o-rings. Far easier to do in my drive way than away out there. I believe that the previous owner replaced some of the 0-rings but I don't think he drained the system, not bad for a 21 year old camper.

 

[thisoldcamper]

I’ve started tearing down my hydraulic pump to replace the worn parts.

After removing the pump from the camper, I removed the base plate from the reservoir and pump.

The pump piston could then be removed from the cylinder – don’t lose the ball bearing that rests in the valve seat.

I’ll let you know the part numbers when I find them. (mine is a 1978)

 

[toyopet.stout]

Fastenal will only sell in 100 qty per package now. Found them here:
http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1125

$6.19 shipped for 13pk (minumum order)

 

[Grrlartist]

Fastenal will only sell in 100 qty per package now. Found them here:
http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1125

$6.19 shipped for 13pk (minumum order)

A few random questions for the hive mind:


Toyopet, what year is your Alaskan? Trying to figure out what size I will need without tearing apart my rams, as they are semi-working right now. Mine is a 1969-70.

Also, dopey question related to not having torn mine apart yet: How many o-rings will I need? One per ram, or more?

Do I need to plan to replace o-rings in the pump itself, also, or only if it doesn't work well after replacing the ones in the rams?

Third possibly dopey question: I see people talking about checking the fluid level in their system, but WHERE do I check that? And if the fluid is low, can I add to it without knowing what was used, or should I drain the whole system?

Thanks!

 

[hangster]

well, after studying this thread like the zapruder film I'm going in..
off to buy my o-rings

 

[hangster]

naturally I'm neck deep and they gave me the wrong size o-rings..
I'll update shortly

 

[nixfwc]

What size are the orings for the newer larger brass cylinders? Has anyone replaced theirs. Mine are just starting to leak. I am presuming the seals are orings like the earlier rams but larger. It would be great to have them before I pull this apart. My Alaskan is a 2014.

 

[ntsqd]

Is Alaskan not forthcoming with this info, or do they want you to buy their re-seal kit?

 

[Willys Addict]

So I had an O ring start leaking in about a year after changing and cleaning. So I took the opportunity to install Quad rings, i am leaving for Alaska at the end of the Month and we shall see how they work. attached is the O Ring and Quad Ring installed, as well the information on both.

 

[flyboykev]

Willys Addict
question about the quad ring you are showing pictures on.

referring to the pictures: the packaging dimensions on the 2-115 look to be the same as the 4-115 but the O-ring looks thicker?
Is the quad ring a thicker O-ring and did it resolve the issue you had?

On my 95' 10' CO, I installed all new stock 1" brass cylinders 3 years ago, but have lost two seals within a 20 or so raises and now another lost seal this labor day weekend.
the camper is mostly for hunting so it sits lowered for months at a time.

I also did a good job to re-align the stroke to my top mounts so the piston rod goes straight up and is centered within the cylinder.

I used #115 Nitrile O-rings from Tacoma Screw.

just seems that I shouldn't be having O-ring issues so often and sucks I don't trust my cylinders to perform when camping??

thanks
flyboykev

 

[Willys Addict]

The quad rings are a little thicker and they are square, when I rebuilt mine I cleaned and measured my cylinders finished them as good as i was able and then resealed with good O Rings, they all by this year started to leak, I just took the camper off (Till Hunting) from the summer. I covered most of BC, Yukon and Alaska, no leaks as of today. Now I did build a corner bracket to do field repairs and took both styles of O rings with me. The other thing I will do this year due to some dampness attacking the lowered portion of the sides is store it raised when I stop for the winter, not sure if it will matter for the seals but everything will be sitting with better circulation.
But the short answer is the quad rings have worked so far and this is what they are designed for, I my issue keeps up we may just see 4 new Jacks..... Hope it helps.

 

[flyboykev]

thanks for the quick response.

should I just buy then (Parker 4-115 instead of the 2-115) to get the thicker O-ring?

flyboykev

 

[flyboykev]

update 9/5
called Seal Technologies in Kirkland and the next O-ring size up from 2-115 is 1/8" thickness vs stock 3/32".
its Parker # 2-209 with dimensions .671 (11/16") ID x .949 OD.
concerned about being too thick and working against the hydraulic action, I stopped by Omni packing and seal in south park Seattle.
they recommended using a metric O-ring with dimensions 3mm thickness x 17mm (.669) ID x 23mm (.905) OD. which is in between the 115 & 209.
I bought 4 of them and this weekend when I pull the rod from the cylinder, I will MIC them both to compare and decide best course of action.
all are Nitrile material.
flyboykev