Opened Turnbuckles

[JHanson]

I agree with you completely. I wouldn't be replacing those turnbuckles with stronger ones. Being a half @$$ed engineer, you're just moving the failure point somewhere else like truck bed mount, the bed itself, or the camper. In a pinch you could use a tiedown strap if you had to if you lost a turnbuckle to get home or to the next hardware store. After reading this thread, I like my external torklift tie downs better all of the time.

A turnbuckle should not break during an emergency lane-change maneuver. There's a difference between a safe failure point and a weak spot. I believe the stock turnbuckles are a weak spot - one of the very very few items I find inadequate on the FWC.

 

[Captm]

I don't believe you need a "failure point" nor design one in. Off hand I can't think of anything designed with a failure point intentionally built in. I knew that I needed to replace the factory turnbuckles but it got pushed to the bottom of the list. Had I replaced them with a "rated" turnbuckle I don't believed I would have ended up with a couple of thousand dollars worth of damage to the roof my cab. A "rated" turnbuckle with a Working Load Limit (WLL) will be stamped with it. Had I been going slower the hooks on the turnbuckle could/would have failed somewhere else on the trail, possibly a non recoverable spot.
Cheers

 

[ntsqd]

The concept of a "fuse" is appealing, but consider what happens if that "fuse" blows. The camper comes loose in the bed. Is there ever a time when this is acceptable? Standing still is the only time that I can think of, and if the fuse blows there it's "rating" is too low.

 

[jha6av8r]

The Hi-lift jack has failure points built into it. A fuse blows because the circuit was overloaded. The canopy of the A-6 and F-14 and most jets is designed to fail in a certain area in case you need to eject through it.

Failure points are designed into systems all the time.

 

[idahoron]

Shear pins are installed in many pieces of equipment.

 

[Captm]

Like I said "off the top of my head".

Now doesn't a fuse blows because it was designed to, it fails if it doesn't blow. Wouldn't the failure of the canopy be if it didn't give under the condition it was designed to?
A shear pin's job by definition is to shear, if it didn't that would be the failure. Regardless a turnbuckle by design is not meant to fail. I would be willing to bet that FWC doesn't intend for the turnbuckle to be "fail point" allowing the camper to come free before possibly pulling an anchor point out.

Just so I'm aware and operate my Hi-Lift safely what are the failure points built into a Hi-Lift?

Cheers

 

[idahoron]

The shear pin is only designed to "shear" when the load exceeds the working parameters of the intended equipment. I would think that would be the same with a fuse.
I do agree that I don't think they intended the turnbuckle to be a "shear pin" so to speak.

 

[jha6av8r]

The shear pin is only designed to "shear" when the load exceeds the working parameters of the intended equipment. I would think that would be the same with a fuse.
I do agree that I don't think they intended the turnbuckle to be a "shear pin" so to speak.

The purpose of a failure point such as a shear pin is to prevent major structural or system damage that is more difficult or costly to repair. If you make your turnbuckles stronger than the camper or truck attachment points, you shift potential failures to them as stated by another poster. It's a matter of design choice where you want a failure to occur. The campers are designed for off-road use within limits. They're not designed to be Baja'd down a washboard dirt road at 50 mph. You can for awhile but at some point something will fail. Choose where you want that failure to be, camper, truck, or turnbuckle.

 

[idahoron]

I believe we are on the same page.

 

[Captm]

I guess you can put me in the no failure point column. I do not want a failure or weak link in my truck, camper or turnbuckle. I don't believe that is necessary or desirable. Which turnbuckle would you use to keep the camper on your truck?
Cheers

 

[ski3pin]

I have been reading this topic with interest. My take away from this discussion is the benefit of closed mounting attachments - if the turnbuckle loosens, there is still a connection between the truck and camper. It does not just fall off.

 

[jha6av8r]

I guess you can put me in the no failure point column. I do not want a failure or weak link in my truck, camper or turnbuckle. I don't believe that is necessary or desirable. Which turnbuckle would you use to keep the camper on your truck?
Cheers

I would chose the one that reduces the chance a failure is the attachment point of my camper or truck. No right or wrong answer. It's just design choice.

 

[takesiteasy]

I have been reading this topic with interest. My take away from this discussion is the benefit of closed mounting attachments - if the turnbuckle loosens, there is still a connection between the truck and camper. It does not just fall off.

This is my take-away also. Closed eyes with lock nuts seem prudent and fail-safe for the most part.

The question of failure point can be resolved by staying within the design parameters of whatever system you have- speed and trail obstacles being the obvious generators of stress. Obviously, every system has a failure point. If you don't exceed that point, you will be fine with whatever approach you take. Knowing the flex that is possible in most of the truck frames, and the technology used in the construction of these campers, it becomes clear that either the attachment point, the attachment hardware or the camper itself will most likely fail before most trucks exceed their limits.

 

[pvstoy]

I guess you can put me in the no failure point column. I do not want a failure or weak link in my truck, camper or turnbuckle. I don't believe that is necessary or desirable. Which turnbuckle would you use to keep the camper on your truck?
Cheers

I have been reading this topic with interest. My take away from this discussion is the benefit of closed mounting attachments - if the turnbuckle loosens, there is still a connection between the truck and camper. It does not just fall off.

The one on the right just looks like a bent wire and under stress can open up. The one on the left has some strength built into the opening. The left also has a jam nut to prevent it form loosing up. Closed eyes are better so it won't fall off when you get too much slack.

I would use the one on the left but modify it. Near the tip of the opening end I would drill a small hole. After installing and setting the jam nut I would run a safety wire through the hole and tie it off on the back side of the hook. Do this at both ends.

What do you get, you make a closed eye with wire so when you have enough flex from the four mountings the turnbuckle won't fall off. When it comes time to remove the camper just take a pair of dikes (wire cutters) cut the wire, loosen the jam nut, and loosen the turnbuckle.

 

[craig333]

Yes, we can almost eliminate the possibility of failure if we just leave our campers in the driveway. I do try and not abuse my camper but I'm not going to stay off rough roads just because it would be easier on the camper. Slow down yes, watch those stealth bumps and take it easy as much as possible.

Btw, after reading this thread I've come to the conclusion I'll be upgrading my turnbuckles at the next opportunity.

 

[Captm]

Pactrick, the safety wire is a great idea and will use it. The one on the right was installed by American RV when I took delivery of the camper. The one on the left (+3 more) I received this morning from Stan. I was concerned that it had hooks instead jaws but now the problem is solved!
Cheers

 

[longhorn1]

Pactrick, the safety wire is a great idea and will use it. The one on the right was installed by American RV when I took delivery of the camper. The one on the left (+3 more) I received this morning from Stan. I was concerned that it had hooks instead jaws but now the problem is solved!
Cheers

When you said the problem is solved did you mean because you have a stronger turnbuckle or did you replace the hooks with jaws? Do you know the model number and manufacture? Do you think this is going to be standard with FWC? JD

 

[Captm]

I meant that I will be able to use the ones Stan sent by drilling (at the tip) and safety wiring them. The only info I have is that the body and hook are steel and the hooks are stamped "M10". So they are metric and would then assume foreign made. I'm going to test these out and see how well they work.

However I'm really leaning towards through bolting the camper to the FWC Toyota Mounting Plates using Timbren AEON Single Convulotion Rubber Springs.

Cheers

 

[PaulT]

Bolting camper to truck in Oregon alters the definition of the combination which involves $. Attached with turnbuckles it is a pickup with camper. Attached with bolts changes it to a motorhome because it is now considered permanent.

May not matter until you have to fill out an accident report. You may have handed your insurance company an out for paying the claim. Something to investigate in your state.

Paul

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Paul, that's interesting. Did you find the reg online? I wonder if there are any regs about height or 'permanent' bed.

Edit: I found it. The reg says permanently mounted, but I didn't find the definition of permanent. I wonder if you have jacks, if that still constitutes 'permanent'.