Preventing camper from hopping up in truck bed

[patrickkidd]

I have a 1993 ranger to that weighs about 700 pounds in the back of my 2002 Tacoma. It seems to jump up and slam down whenever I go over the slightest bump either at all speeds. My turnbuckles go straight horizontally to the factory toyota hooks, so they don’t help with this. Has anyone else made an effort to secure a camper vertically to prevent this?

 

[Wallowa]

I have a 1993 ranger to that weighs about 700 pounds in the back of my 2002 Tacoma. It seems to jump up and slam down whenever I go over the slightest bump either at all speeds. My turnbuckles go straight horizontally to the factory toyota hooks, so they don’t help with this. Has anyone else made an effort to secure a camper vertically to prevent this?

Well...definitely I am not an expert...but horizontal turnbuckles will limit/prevent horizontal movement but obviously not vertical jumps...if you can not relocate correct tie downs internally then you may have to add external tie downs that attach to the frame..alternately, and not a good solution, is to raise the camper to give a more vertical angle.

 

[DavidGraves]

Howdy

Stop driving the truck camper combo until you get this sorted out. You could damge your camper.

You misunderstand the intallation method for the camper.

You will get plenty help from the forum but start by reading FWC;s installation instructions.

David Graves

 

[longhorn1]

I have a 1993 ranger to that weighs about 700 pounds in the back of my 2002 Tacoma. It seems to jump up and slam down whenever I go over the slightest bump either at all speeds. My turnbuckles go straight horizontally to the factory toyota hooks, so they don’t help with this. Has anyone else made an effort to secure a camper vertically to prevent this?

First, the factory hooks aren't designed for what you are using them for. They aren't structurally designed for this. FWC installs eyebolts in the bed. The eyebolts face at an angle and based on the truck and camper type. There isn't anything that will hold an object down with horizontal tie-downs.

 

[Wallowa]

I just re-read your post and noted "factory Toyota hooks'; yikes...I sure hope you are not referring to the tarp hooks high up on the bed of the Tacoma....like suggested...contact competent slide in pop-up camper installer and have them install the correct tie downs in your Tacoma..you are flirting with disaster; fix this before using that combo again.

 

[patrickkidd]

I just re-read your post and noted "factory Toyota hooks'; yikes...I sure hope you are not referring to the tarp hooks high up on the bed of the Tacoma....like suggested...contact competent slide in pop-up camper installer and have them install the correct tie downs in your Tacoma..you are flirting with disaster; fix this before using that combo again.

Noted.

For what it’s worth, these are the steel brackets mounted to the insides of the bed about half way up.

 

[patrickkidd]

I called ATC today and got the following info:

- Use 3/8" forged eye bolts, 1 1/4" long.
- Use 3/8" inside diameter 2" outside diameter fender washers
- Drill 3/8" hole into truck bed steel from below to avoid drilling through anything important.
- Rear holes should be 55-56" from front of truck bed (he thinks).
- Use 8-10" hook-hook turnbuckles in front, slightly shorter in the back.

I'm going to look for the hardware and do this ASAP. Thanks guys!

 

[longhorn1]

It is possible ATC and FWC might have slightly different procedures. I would contact FWC since you have a FWC.

 

[PackRat]

If you can use a flat washer that is larger in diameter than 2", say 3"....that will be better to spread the forces created when you go over bumps and there is any chance of movement in the eyebolts and turnbuckles. The same for where you mount the eyebolts in the camper...spreading the load via larger washers will help.

Don't forget to use a sealant on the eyebolts mounted on the camper to stop water intrusion.

Generally speaking, I think I see truck bed campers mounted with the camper eyebolts closer together than the truck bed eyebolts which will also give you the benefit of not only vertical movement but will keep the camper from sliding fore and aft as you go up/down rough roads.

 

[ntsqd]

Better yet is to stack those 2" OD washers on top (closer to the nut) of the 3" OD washers. You want a stiff backing plate with as much surface area as you can reasonably give it.

I don't like the hook - hook turn-buckles and prefer clevis - clevis, but understand that those can't always be used in every application.

Whatever turn-buckles you use, orient them with the RH threads where it is easiest to tighten a jam nut and put such a nut on the turn-buckle before wiggling it into place.

 

[Advmoto18]

While I can't find the info...I seem to recall FWC specifying a specific location to mount eyebolts in the bed in order to achieve a certain angle between the bed installed eyebolts and the attachment points on the camper. Using the specified method creates angles and thusly opposing tension (not very much but enough to stabilize the camper) on the 4 turnbuckles to prevent the very issue the OP is experiencing.

Like others have replied/posted. I would not drive the truck with the camper in the bed using the factory D rings. While you may damage the camper and/or the truck, I would be more worried you might lose the camper out the back altogether if you experience a tie down point failure. And if one fails, expect the others to fail very quickly due to asymmetric loading.

And the factory tie down points are good for tying down a tarp or a strap to keep something like a mower from rolling around in the bed, but, not much else!

Contact Stan at FWC. I'm sure he has the PDF file for proper installation at his finger tips.

Rethink this problem and get the problem corrected before you head out again! Stay Safe!

 

[PaulT]

This thread may give some ideas
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/14010-eyebolts-installation-video/

Paul

 

[patrickkidd]

This thread may give some ideas
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/14010-eyebolts-installation-video/

Paul

Awesome! That video is a great help. For one thing and confirms what a whore just eye bolt looks like.

The only difference between what ATC told me and what the video says is ATC said to use 2 inch fender washers and the video said to use one and a half inch fender washers. Obviously 2 inch washers are better because they spread the load more, but they are hard to fine and one and a half inch washers are everywhere.

 

[Vic Harder]

I bought and installed the newer version of the tie downs in my 2002 Hawk. Here is a pic showing the difference in size of the internal plate. There is also a large plate under the truck bed, not just a scrawny fender washer.

 

[patrickkidd]

I bought and installed the newer version of the tie downs in my 2002 Hawk. Here is a pic showing the difference in size of the internal plate. There is also a large plate under the truck bed, not just a scrawny fender washer.

Shoot, you know I should really add a plate to my camper. It’s just using fender washers on plywood and I have thought it totally inadequate.

 

[ntsqd]

Wood can handle tremendous loads if those loads are applied over a large area. It is not so good with point loads, loads concentrated in a small area. Same is true of composites, which plywood could be argued to be an obtuse example of.

 

[Chrish]

And don't forget to increase the turnbuckle load rating.3/8" Galvanized steel ones are in the 1100 lb range, aluminum not so much.

I used galvanized 2" square plates instead of using Fender washers. These are available at lumber yards. They are used to hold pressure treated lumber framing plates to 1/2" J bolts coming up through the concrete.

 

[Vic Harder]

2" square is about the original size I had on mine. New ones are much bigger!

 

[patrickkidd]

Well that turned out to be a very easy install once I was able to find the right parts. Forged eye bolts and 3/8” x 2” fender washers from Amazon, and lock nuts from Home Depot. Finding a spot to drill the holes in my Tacoma 6’ bed as per the video’s instructions was pretty easy. I didn’t use any kind of sealant on the eye bolts mounted to the bed, I suppose the 2” washers and nuts tightened all the way down will prevent rust?

I did notice that the stainless hooks on the camper are on tiny washers which I plan to reenforce with these 1/8” x 4” x 4” steel plates from amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F80W3FQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JZQYBb1DWEBG8

 

[patrickkidd]

Here is a bit of reenforce menu work I did on one of the mounts that was beginning to bend the plywood. I don’t have a lot of tools, but it turns out I didn’t need any. Just found miscellaneous metal pieces at the local hardware store and hacked one of them up to fit.

Tightening the nut on the eye bolt sucked the plywood up against the vertical aluminum angle bars. I’ll drill a 3/8” hole in the middle of the 4” x 4” x 1/8” plate I ordered and then it will fit right under those angle bars.