Propane Tank not working?
- Thread starter Outnabout
- Start date
esimmers
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 15, 2010
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- 170
Is the refrigerator pilot light the only appliance working with one propane tank but not the other? What about the stove or the heater?
Assuming all appliances are affected, I would suspect the overflow prevention device in the problem tank's valve. This is a second "feature" of the current tank valves in addition to the overFILL prevention device that is supposed to prevent the tank from being filled more than 80% with liquid propane.
The valve's overFLOW prevention device is designed to activate when there's an unusually large gas flow from the tank, as would happen if a hose failed. An overly sensitive device will often trigger when first opening the valve of a fresh, full tank connected to your system.
You can usually hear a click when the overFILL device triggers. If you hear a click when you first open a tank valve, close the valve and then open it again VERY SLOWLY to avoid the click. Try to get in the habit of always opening propane tank valves slowly; teach this to your friends who will thank you!
When the overFILL device triggers, it still allows a very small amount of propane to leave the tank, probably enough to fuel a pilot light. That's why I'm not 100% sure this is the solution, but it's worth a try.
Ed
Assuming all appliances are affected, I would suspect the overflow prevention device in the problem tank's valve. This is a second "feature" of the current tank valves in addition to the overFILL prevention device that is supposed to prevent the tank from being filled more than 80% with liquid propane.
The valve's overFLOW prevention device is designed to activate when there's an unusually large gas flow from the tank, as would happen if a hose failed. An overly sensitive device will often trigger when first opening the valve of a fresh, full tank connected to your system.
You can usually hear a click when the overFILL device triggers. If you hear a click when you first open a tank valve, close the valve and then open it again VERY SLOWLY to avoid the click. Try to get in the habit of always opening propane tank valves slowly; teach this to your friends who will thank you!
When the overFILL device triggers, it still allows a very small amount of propane to leave the tank, probably enough to fuel a pilot light. That's why I'm not 100% sure this is the solution, but it's worth a try.
Ed
gaylon
Senior Member
Is your camper pretty much perfectly level? Propane refrigerators are very sensitive to being level. I have heard they can have as little as a 3% tolerance.
esimmers
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 15, 2010
- Messages
- 170
Here's another idea why you may be getting zero propane out of one of your tanks even though it is full.
Check out <http://www.propane101.com/valveopennopropane.htm>
OPD valves are designed so that propane will not flow from the service valve unless it is hooked up to a hose end connection. This is the way the OPD cylinder valve was designed. Unattached propane cylinders equipped with OPD valves will not allow gas to flow when the service valve (handwheel) is opened. The inside of the OPD valve is engineered to only allow propane in or out if the internal valve is actuated by being depressed. This OPD valve feature adds additional safety in case the handwheel is turned, opening the valve.
So maybe there's some reason the internal valve isn't being fully depressed when you hook up your hose to the tank. It's probably not the fault of the hose since it works OK on another tank. So maybe there's some reason the hose connector isn't screwing onto the valve far enough to push open the internal valve.
For the OPD valve to operate with the handwheel open, the hose end connection must be securely attached. When attached to a cylinder valve and tightened, the brass fitting will push the internal valve open and allow gas to flow out of the cylinder to the appliance, if the handwheel is in the open position. This fitting must be in place for gas to flow out of the cylinder. Otherwise, turning the handwheel will not produce the intended result.
Check out <http://www.propane101.com/valveopennopropane.htm>
OPD valves are designed so that propane will not flow from the service valve unless it is hooked up to a hose end connection. This is the way the OPD cylinder valve was designed. Unattached propane cylinders equipped with OPD valves will not allow gas to flow when the service valve (handwheel) is opened. The inside of the OPD valve is engineered to only allow propane in or out if the internal valve is actuated by being depressed. This OPD valve feature adds additional safety in case the handwheel is turned, opening the valve.
So maybe there's some reason the internal valve isn't being fully depressed when you hook up your hose to the tank. It's probably not the fault of the hose since it works OK on another tank. So maybe there's some reason the hose connector isn't screwing onto the valve far enough to push open the internal valve.
For the OPD valve to operate with the handwheel open, the hose end connection must be securely attached. When attached to a cylinder valve and tightened, the brass fitting will push the internal valve open and allow gas to flow out of the cylinder to the appliance, if the handwheel is in the open position. This fitting must be in place for gas to flow out of the cylinder. Otherwise, turning the handwheel will not produce the intended result.
I "lost" all propane to my camper this month when switching tanks. Closing the tank valve, removing the hose, reconnecting the hose, and SLOWLY opening the tank valve restored full propane flow to the camper. My guess, opening the tank valve too rapidly caused the "large failure" valve to close.
Bingo! Always open the tank valve slowly.iowahiker said:
I think it depends on the model. In my Bobcat, the small 3 way pilot stays lighted when on propane.Outnabout said:
Disconnecting and opening the tank slowly seems to have fixed the flow problem. I did need to disconnect, connect and open the valve slowly a few times before the problem seemed to fix itself. I ran it for a few hours this morning. Hopefully it continues to work. Thanks for the advice!
ntsqd
Custom User Title
Eventually our tank got to the point where opening slowly didn't work. Really didn't matter what I did, that danged fool valve locked me out. Had to interrupt a group camp outing to drive into the nearest town and buy another tank. If there is a simple by-pass I'd like to know about it. Got along fine for decades without these over-reaching, protect me from myself contraptions that interfere with normal use.
I keep a 1lb adapter and a couple 1lb tanks in the camper for a backup. **Have not needed it yet.
https://www.amazon.com/Steak-Adapter-Propane-Refill-Connector/dp/B011303F2A/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1499198428&sr=8-4-fkmr2&keywords=1lb+to+25lb+adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Steak-Adapter-Propane-Refill-Connector/dp/B011303F2A/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1499198428&sr=8-4-fkmr2&keywords=1lb+to+25lb+adapter
I have fought this for 4 years on my 2013 Hawk.The first time it did it I thought I was on too much of an side hill. The next time it did it I had a freezer full of cut bait for a fishing trip I didn't know what to blame it on.Outnabout said:
Then I tried to get my heater buddy to fire and it didn't have fuel. I messed with the hose tightening it and loosening it and I got it to work. That has happened several times.
I was just on a vacation and I tried to get the heater to work with the propane tank. I finally put the hose on and screwed the hose into a different mister heater not a buddy. I couldn't hear gas. after tightening and loosening the re tightening several times I worked.
Then I tried to use it for my grill. It was not going to work. So I bought a new hose thinking something was wrong with the hose. I tried to use the buddy heater again with the new hose, and nothing.
I have a propane take gauge that tells how much is in the tank. I screwed it in and turned it on, NOTHING! I knew it was full so I tried tightening and loosening. I gave it a twist, and the needle came up.
I talked to a company here in town that deals with propane tanks. They told me all the things to try, slow open and some others. Nothing made it work. I took the 10 pound tank in last week to get the valve replaced. If that doesn't do it I am putting a bullet though it.
My other tank is flawless. I tighten the hose to the fridge and turn it on and it runs. I don't do it slow, I don't turn it on, then back off wait a bit the turn it on again no nothing. I just put the hose on, turn it on and enjoy ice cream in the summer.
Bill D
Senior Member
I experienced a similar problem when connecting my Coleman camp stove to the 10# bottles. It worked with one tank and not the other.
I believe it was the result of one tank being filled higher than the other... more pressure I guess.
I was eventually able to get it to work with both tanks. I had to do it in a similar fashion... open the trouble tank valve slowly. Once the propane level went down, I never had this issue again.
I've probably filled both tanks 10 times since then. I couldn't even tell you which one was causing the issue. Again, I believe the issue was one tank being slightly overfilled.
I believe it was the result of one tank being filled higher than the other... more pressure I guess.
I was eventually able to get it to work with both tanks. I had to do it in a similar fashion... open the trouble tank valve slowly. Once the propane level went down, I never had this issue again.
I've probably filled both tanks 10 times since then. I couldn't even tell you which one was causing the issue. Again, I believe the issue was one tank being slightly overfilled.
ntsqd
Custom User Title
Not all tanks are the same. Our camper uses bbq tanks and the Mal-Wart sourced Amerigas full replacement was $50 Now that we're in that system we can refill or replace it at will.
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