Question about traveling and camping at low temperatures.

C

carld

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Decatur Texas
Does anyone have experience to relate about traveling in low temperatures. I'm thinking about driving to Alaska over the Alcan highway in October. The highs and lows are somewhere between 45F and 20F outside.

I have a standard ATC with water tank and heater and a 0F degree sleeping bag which should be fine. I'll be spending nights in the camper and driving during the day.

I'm worried about the water lines freezing. I'll be using the heater in the evenings and setting it to a low temperature at nights. I probably need to replace the thermostat with one the works reliably at low temperatures around freezing.

The thermal pack would be nice but maybe next year. Thought I might try to cut out some Reflectix for the sides and windows to put up at night.
 
If you don't have the liner pack, but do have thermarest pads left over from your ground camping days, slide one up where your head meets the fabric. Even just that much insulation right where it counts helps. Plus bring towels to wipe up the condensation in the morning. If you run the heater when it is that cold outside there WILL be drippage.

I didn't get the water system just because I didn't want to worry about winterizing. Jugs work fine for me.
 
I've camped in mine at around 20-ish degrees. I think it was 22* when I got up in the morning in the camper (I didn't run the furnace one night). My thermostat goes down to 45* and it got a bit warm using a zero-degree bag at night with the furnace set to 45*. Anyway, if the temps are in the low 20s at night, I think you'll be fine if you open a cabinet or two to let the warmer air in those spaces. However, I think it may be just as easy and offer peace of mind to purchase gallon or 2.5 gallon containers. My water in containers never froze, but it did freeze as soon as it hit the cup or coffee pot I poured it into. All water had to be heated on the stove before I could drink it due to freezing in the cup.
 
In conditions that cold, I would be inclined to camp with electrical hookups or carry a generator so that I could run a small electric space heater and leave cabinets open. The generator could be especially valuable if you had vehicle trouble away from cell service and hookups & had to stay for a day or so in a disabled vehicle. Our space heater kept us warm at 25F on the 600 watt setting without running all the time. We do have the liner and a good sleeping bag but kept the roof vents open a bit to vent moist air.

Paul
 
I have camped in my current set-up down to minus 15, anything below +25 and I winterize and use jugs. I have used reflectix and it helped quite a bit. I have had my furnace going, while I was awake, a buddy heater at night and both of them in conjunction with a generator/electric heater. The tops get pretty stiff when it gets really cold and it can take a while to become pliable. You shouldn't see temps to terribly cold, but better safe than sorry. I always carry a generator in cold temps, (Honda 2000), not a fan of the noise but as someone else pointed out can also jump your truck battery. Very jealous, love AK. Fall is awesome up there.
 
Carld- Here's an off-the-wall thought. You might take along an infra-red temperature gun to evaluate the effects of cold on your water system components. I'm thinking you could do the early part of the trip with your regular setup and use the temp gun to decide when to switch over to jugs if/when conditions warrant. (That assumes, of course, you can figure out how to winterize your specific system while on the road.)

I say this after an experience with frozen water pipes in my house. In February 2015 I was on a trip and my wife called to say she had no water flow in our house after sub-zero temps overnight. She had tried applying a heat pad in several places but hadn't yet come upon the problem area. Eventually I suggested she try to localize the problem with the temp gun. She read out the temps as she went and it became abundantly clear where the problem was and how far along the pipe it extended. She applied the heating pad there and had water flowing within minutes. I was surprised how well the gun worked for that purpose and how much the temperature of the Pex varied from place to place.

If you're simply not interested in that approach, you might take along the temp gun anyway and use it to monitor temperatures of the components and the cabinet area as temps get frosty just for your own edification. It could also be interesting to put numbers on the temps around the inside of the camper on a bitter-cold night.

Just a thought!
 
Ya but I'm looking for a practical approach. The stock thermostats low temp is somewhere in the 40's and using a generator is too complicated. The propane heater, like the propane refrigerator, works good and is very efficient, except for the heat loss from the soft top. Then there is the water freezing problem. I would rank them 1,2 and 3.

So a better thermostat, fix #1. I've seen some chatter about a better thermostat.

For #2, the insulation problem results in the heater switching on and off too often. How to improve the soft top insulation??? A roll of Reflectix 24" x 25 ft will cover both sides + two windows for $22. I know it doesn't have the R value it claims, but it provides another barrier and an air space. Also, maintaining a lower the temp set point to around 34F accurately with a digital thermostat will help. In the day time with the top down and slightly higher temperatures it's less of a problem. I am definitely replacing the curtains with Reflectix window covers, just so it's dark, although it won't be a problem in Alaska in October.

Maybe the thermorest thing too. I spent 3 weeks on Denali in 2012 at lows around -22F. At night your respiration results in frost all inside the tent and around face. You get used to it and at 14000+ feet it evaporates quickly.

As for #3, I've noticed that if you leave the pump handle down it seems like the water drains back into the tank. When hiking I use a bladder and when its cold I always blow the water out of the tube back into the bladder to keep it from freezing up. Maybe theres a way to drain the water from the faucet to the tank. I think the 2.5 gal water jugs from Walmart is also a good idea, all I really need is hot coffee in the morning.

I'm not too worried about keeping things cold in the refrigerator or using too much 12V power. At cold temps I usually worry about not freezing stuff in the propane refrigerator, and I'll probably be driving every day keeping the batteries charged.

I just was there in May cant wait to see the northern lights and the fall.
 
We've used the reflectix system down to 15f in California using Wave3 and factory furnace. I used self-adhesive velcro tabs that worked with the factory velcro on our 08 Hawk to secure the reflectix. We cut windows flaps and used velcro tabs to hold them open. The trouble with reflectix is that you must set up / break down each time. We had two rolls L and R, which worked for us, until we sewed our own artic pack following Ski3pin designs. The benefit is that it stays in place all the time.

I've had frozen water lines when parked without heat in the 20's and camping the following night. Running heat is mandatory to keep the lines liquid, so I support the other comments to use a jug system for low temp travel.
 
OK looking at the Honeywell TH1100DV1000/U. It has a garage mode that goes down to 35F.

Does anyone have any suggestion or comments about tire chains. Back in day I had a 1956 Willies Overlander. We would put chains on all 4 tires and drive around in the mountains of NM. I'm thinking I might need tire chains in Canada or Alaska in October or November?
 
I carry two sets of chains in my truck. I think they are Laclede. They are both link style chains, one is a v-bar. I haven't had to use them, and would probably only do so off road. Where I live there are "snow zones" and you are required to carry chains or have traction tires at certain times of the year. If I have to put chains on, I'm probably going to wait until the DOT plows the road. I bought chains not for on road use.

So, all of that being said, I don't think you'll need chains, except that to pass through some areas you may need to "carry" them to be legal.
 
Ace! said:
I carry two sets of chains in my truck. I think they are Laclede. They are both link style chains, one is a v-bar. I haven't had to use them, and would probably only do so off road. Where I live there are "snow zones" and you are required to carry chains or have traction tires at certain times of the year. If I have to put chains on, I'm probably going to wait until the DOT plows the road. I bought chains not for on road use.

So, all of that being said, I don't think you'll need chains, except that to pass through some areas you may need to "carry" them to be legal.
Click to expand...
I carry the Les Schwab chains but have only needed them once in 6 years.
At least in Southern Oregon, you may have more locals that grew up driving in snow & ice. Not nearly enough experienced winter drivers in Portland area. I usually avoid driving until roads are cleared of mangled steel and snow. ;)

Paul
 
Ditto what PaulT said about the Nissan/Thermos bottle, keeps coffee hot for 10-12+ hrs
 
BC requires you to carry chains starting October 1. Dunno whether they actually check that, but it is on a lot of signs entering the province.
 
Thanks, I probably get some type of chains. Wonder if they work in sand?

I have a stainless steel vacuum 65 oz growler. I guess that would work for coffee in the morning, but I'm a late starter and like to fix my main meal breakfast and at the same time heat up the camper.
 
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