Questions regarding "So, you want to setup a good electrical system in your camper?"

[rando]

We can probably help, but we need some more details: What monitor are you using? Which DC-DC charger are you using? What battery are you using that wants 14.8V to charge?

Are you sure the ground on the DC-DC is connected to the camper battery through the shunt? If not, the shunt won't register the charge current from the DC-DC charger.

 

[CatButt]

If your existing panels are in series, that would mean that a portable would need to be put in series with the roof panels. To do that, you need to disconnect the wiring to the roof panels and connect the portable into the circuit, and the reverse to disconnect the portable panel. Furthermore, all the current from all your panels would be running through the wiring to your portable panel.

So yes it *could* be done, but practically it would be much easier to either run everything in parallel or run a separate charge controller for your portable.

Thx much.

 

[Tom S]

Hi Rando. Good work I think you have it nailed with the negative leads. In my quest for a clean installation I’m thinking I have somehow bypassed the shunt with the negative going back to the truck. The big lugs on the #2 wire didn’t fit nicely on the negative buss so I joined them very neatly and tidily at the negative terminal thereby bypassing the shunt. lol. Hey people who don’t do anything never make any mistakes!! I’ve made lots... Thanks. And I’m using a Renogy 30 amp dc2dc charger with MPPT and a Renogy 500A monitor and a Stark Energy 125 ah AGM battery. I’ll let you tomorrow how it all works. Cheers.

Tom

 

[Tom S]

Hi Rando. Good work I think you have it nailed with the negative leads. In my quest for a clean installation I’m thinking I have somehow bypassed the shunt with the negative going back to the truck. The big lugs on the #2 wire didn’t fit nicely on the negative buss so I joined them very neatly and tidily at the negative terminal thereby bypassing the shunt. lol. Hey people who don’t do anything never make any mistakes!! I’ve made lots... Thanks. And I’m using a Renogy 30 amp dc2dc charger with MPPT and a Renogy 500A monitor and a Stark Energy 125 ah AGM battery. I’ll let you tomorrow how it all works. Cheers.

Tom

 

[Tom S]

Hi Rando. Good work I think you have it nailed with the negative leads. In my quest for a clean installation I’m thinking I have somehow bypassed the shunt with the negative going back to the truck. The big lugs on the #2 wire didn’t fit nicely on the negative buss so I joined them very neatly and tidily at the negative terminal thereby bypassing the shunt. lol. Hey people who don’t do anything never make any mistakes!! I’ve made lots... Thanks. And I’m using a Renogy 30 amp dc2dc charger with MPPT and a Renogy 500A monitor and a Stark Energy 125 ah AGM battery. I’ll let you tomorrow how it all works. Cheers.

Tom

 

[Tom S]

Sorry for that it didn’t seem to be sent.

 

[Tom S]

The negative was definitely the culprit. I moved it over to the negative buss and everything is working as it should. Not a lot of current as the battery is now well and truly charged but it is reading in the right direction. I just couldn’t wait until tomorrow. Now it’s definitely four thirsty!!! Thanks again and cheers.

Tom

 

[Vic Harder]

Full disclosure, I don't have an Orion-Tr. However, looking at demo on the Victron connect app, you can adjust the engine running detect parameters to work with the voltage drop in your cables, unless your alternator output is REALLY low.

Agreed. I had to tweek mine a fair bit, and then they released a software update that made it plug and play. But my alternator puts out 14.6V. YMMV

KP has also indicated the power cycling issue is real with 10g wire.

I would add that the Victron DC2DC needs really good airflow to avoid self-throttling.

 

[Jon R]

Thanks everyone for the help with my question.

 

[Jon R]

I would add that the Victron DC2DC needs really good airflow to avoid self-throttling.

My Grandby is due to arrive in mid-May, and I am firming up my electrical power configuration. I have most of the equipment now, but won't have the battery until late April.

I am installing a 200Ah LiFePO battery that will take up nearly 1/3 of the volume of the Grandby battery compartment (battery is 10.5"L x 7.5"W x 12" H). I plan to install a Victron MPPT 100/30 and Orion 12/12-30 in that compartment on the side wall opposite the door. I was planning to put the Orion above the solar charger, with the top of the Orion 4 inches below the top of the compartment. I could swap the position and put the Orion in the low position. The compartment will have about 1.5 cubic feet of remaining open volume with the battery and the two chargers installed, with most of that open volume around the chargers. However, there is no ventilation other than a tiny exterior vent and leakage around the door foam seal. Do you think the Orion will have the self-throttling issue in this environment?

 

[Vic Harder]

I added a high CFM fan with a 40*C thermostat to my system to deal with high temps

 

[Jon R]

I was thinking I'd first try pulling off the compartment door and replacing it with a vented door.

 

[BWBratt]

Hi Vic,
Thanks for starting this thread--I really appreciate the detail and advice. I just bought a new truck and I have a 2001 Hawk. The the previous owner had a 3-way connection outside the camper between the camper battery, the camper electrical system and a 7-pin connector from the hitch. With the new truck, I wanted to clean that up and reroute everything through a small cabinet I built.

Attached is my diagram of the system I built over the past few (learning-filled) weekends, and was wondering if I am forgetting anything?

Thanks!

Blake

 

[Vic Harder]

Blake, that looks good in terms of the truck/camper connection. Do you have solar as well? Does the Hawk have the factory kill switch before the factory 12V fuse panel? What about battery monitoring?

 

[BWBratt]

Thanks for the thumbs up, Vic!

I do not have solar. I am considering a new camper in the next few years, so I didn't go all in on the latest plan. I have left enough room in the cabinet for a solar charger, or could I swap out the current DC-DC charger for a MPPT (although I think I read in one of your or Rando's posts that the Renogy MPPT does work that well?). I also left room for a passthrough next to the 4AWG wires coming into the side of the camper to connect to a portable panel if I get that far--I am trying to balance using the camper and spending money/working on the camper

There is no factory kill switch before the fuse box. I could easily add one, either inside the new cabinet or near the fuse box. If I am thinking correctly, the BlueSea breakers enable me to cut the connection to the truck, and the kill switch would enable me to easily shut the camper circuit off when I wanted to work on it, storage, etc.?

I currently have a "dummy" monitor near the sink that displays water tank and battery conditions--red, yellow, green--that must be original equipment. Any suggestions on a monitor that is close to plug and play?

Thanks again!
Blake

 

[ri-f]

Truck Hawk DC-DC Charger Wiring Plan.jpg

Attached is my diagram of the system I built over the past few (learning-filled) weekends, and was wondering if I am forgetting anything?

Looking at your diagram I would think that you would want to put that 2nd Blue Seas breaker between the camper battery and the DC-DC charger, or if you're using that 2nd breaker as a step down from 4 AWG to 6 AWG (you'll most likely need to use 6 AWG in/out of your charger, it won't accept 4 AWG) instead of a power bar bus, then why not put another Blue Seas breaker between the DC-DC and camper battery. Rich

 

[Vic Harder]

Thanks for the thumbs up, Vic!

I do not have solar. I am considering a new camper in the next few years, so I didn't go all in on the latest plan. I have left enough room in the cabinet for a solar charger, or could I swap out the current DC-DC charger for a MPPT (although I think I read in one of your or Rando's posts that the Renogy MPPT does work that well?). I also left room for a passthrough next to the 4AWG wires coming into the side of the camper to connect to a portable panel if I get that far--I am trying to balance using the camper and spending money/working on the camper

There is no factory kill switch before the fuse box. I could easily add one, either inside the new cabinet or near the fuse box. If I am thinking correctly, the BlueSea breakers enable me to cut the connection to the truck, and the kill switch would enable me to easily shut the camper circuit off when I wanted to work on it, storage, etc.?

I currently have a "dummy" monitor near the sink that displays water tank and battery conditions--red, yellow, green--that must be original equipment. Any suggestions on a monitor that is close to plug and play?

Thanks again!
Blake

This one comes close to plug and play
Amazon.com: Victron Energy SmartShunt 500 amp Battery Monitor (Bluetooth): Automotive

 

[ntsqd]

I'm with Rich (good catch btw!), breakers between a battery and everything else. They can't protect anything upstream from them, and using one to turn off the battery leaves some stuff still live if they aren't the very first stop. I try to make the wire from the battery to the breaker as short as possible by placing the breaker near/next to the battery.

 

[Charlie]

I’m adding an Orion 12/12-30 charger to my 2019 Hawk, and this thread has been very useful.

I’ll be using 6AWG wire. There are three wires. I want to replace the “trolling motor plug”. I’m wondering what panel mount receptacle/plug people are using on the truck body?

Everyone talks about Anderson Powerpole or SB connectors, but I can’t seem to find an appropriate panel mount. Powerwerx sells one for 4 conductor Powerpole, but this doesn’t support 6AWG. They sell one that will work for the SB50 (works with 6AWG), but it is only 2 conductor.

Or maybe there is a different approach to this problem?

Powerwerx PanelPole2, Panel Mount Housing for Two Powerpole Connectors with a Weather Tight Cover
Powerwerx PanelPlateSB1 for Anderson SB50 Series Connectors

 

[Jon R]

I used separate connectors. I used an SB50 for the 6awg positive and negative and a flat 4 for the running lights (only using two of the conductors).