Realigning the camper?

S

Santiam Camper

Advanced Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Messages
31
Location
Corvallis, Oregon
When pulling my truck and camper into the garage recently, I caught one of the jack brackets on the frame of the garage door slightly. I stopped immediately, but I managed to pull the camper about two inches out of alignment on one side in relation to the bed of the truck.

Is there any way other than disconnecting and jacking up the camper and reloading it to square it up again?

Thanks

Mike
 
I have used a "come-along" hand-winch to tug my camper into place, a couple of inches. One end of the winch hooked to the jack bracket and the other end connected to a sturdy tree.
It crossed my mind that this might tear the camper apart -- but it didn't. It worked! :)
 
The camper will move by uneven jacking. Going from memory here... Jack up the side in the direction you want it to move, then jack the opposite side a bit more than the first. Lower the first side, then opposite. Check position and repeat if needed.

I’ve also seen a FWC installer kick the jacks at floor level.
 
Mine shifted in the truck last summer while I was driving in Utah canyons.The turnbuckles had loosened and I didn't realize it. The camper had moved back about two inches on one side and somewhat less on the other. It was crashing around ominously as I drove. I tightened the turnbuckles to hold it where it was until I could come up with a way to get it back in the right position. (I don't travel with the jacks attached.)

Back in civilization, I was able to lever it forward with a long 2x4. First, I completely lossened all four turnbuckles. Then I wedged the 2x4 between my hitch receiver step and the rear lower edge of the camper and heaved it forward. I had a piece of wood about 18" long in there to protect the camper. The lever lifted the rear of the camper a little and pushed it forward. Piece of cake. No harm done.

You could probably do what I did with a pole or stout branch, but it needs to be long and you have to get up high to push on it.

The moral of this story: Check your turnbuckles often when driving in rough country.

- Bernard
 
Once that I got my camper aligned and set like I wanted it I installed aluminum clips at the back to prevent any shift or movement just in case. Ron
 
As others have mentioned, I've also seen FWC installers kick the jacks to move the camper an inch or two during the loading process.

Since I jack mine up on an asphalt driveway and sometimes leave it there for a few days at a time, I put 12"x12"x 3/4" plywood squares under the legs. That both prevents the legs from sinking into the relatively soft asphalt over time and also gives the legs a surface to slide on.

A word of warning, though. I made the mistake of 'tapping' the legs down low with a 2-pound hammer the first time I loaded the camper. Afterwards, I was surprised to see I had dented the metal of the leg. I had been watching the camper move and didn't notice that each tap was making a dent. I didn't think I was tapping hard enough to do that.

I later had a problem with the jack running off-track (and posted that here). It turns out I happened to dent the edge of the groove and that allowed the indentation to wander off track. I now have to be careful to watch for that when I use that one jack.
 
Old Crow said:
As others have mentioned, I've also seen FWC installers kick the jacks to move the camper an inch or two during the loading process.

Since I jack mine up on an asphalt driveway and sometimes leave it there for a few days at a time, I put 12"x12"x 3/4" plywood squares under the legs. That both prevents the legs from sinking into the relatively soft asphalt over time and also gives the legs a surface to slide on.

A word of warning, though. I made the mistake of 'tapping' the legs down low with a 2-pound hammer the first time I loaded the camper. Afterwards, I was surprised to see I had dented the metal of the leg. I had been watching the camper move and didn't notice that each tap was making a dent. I didn't think I was tapping hard enough to do that.

I later had a problem with the jack running off-track (and posted that here). It turns out I happened to dent the edge of the groove and that allowed the indentation to wander off track. I now have to be careful to watch for that when I use that one jack.
Click to expand...
Wow, that's not what I've seen. I'd be worried about doing anything that involves hitting the jacks. When I saw them move it, they just pushed on the corners of the camper and rocked it into place.
 
I have had to re-align several times. I just disconnected the tie-downs, lifted the camper (using 4 jacks) about an inch higher than truck bed and pushed camper to the side using 2X4 as a lever. It moved quite easily. (of course I have an Eagle shell that is lighter than some others). Also, only moving it an inch or so. After doing this a couple of times I decided to completely stop having to make small re-alignments. I installed 4 wood blocks, 2 on each side, between truck body side and camper side. It is not tight, but it no longer moves around when on very rough roads.
 
This ^^ I did the same, 2x4's screwed to the camper at the wheel well's then tighten the front/rear turn buckles accordingly while lowering.
This on a Eagle with inside bed eyebolts.
 
I had this issue once. I got 4 furniture dollies from harbor freight (each rated 1000lb). Then got some thick wood from home Depot. It was thick, broad, long enough to put across the open area (you can tell I'm not DIY guy). I removed the turnbuckles, raised all 4 jack legs on the wood platform on these dollies. I was able to slide and move effortless to however I wanted. Zero risk and strain on camper which is what I wanted

https://m.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-movers-dolly-38970.html

I know OP wanted an option without using legs. I use this drill bit adapter to raise and lower mine, so it's very quick and easy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GOPC26/
 
I just went through this and built 4, 3-wheel (triangular) dollies for my camper legs. I used some steel 3" casters from HD (about $5.50 each) plus some scrap plywood. Each caster is supposed to be good for 300 pounds so some overkill there. They will be used on concrete floor. I can easily move the camper around as necessary and should make it much easier to put onto and off of the truck.
 
I just used some aluminum angle that I had and drilled it to fit 2 bolts that hold the bed to the frame on the Tacoma. The bolts just happen to be in an almost perfect location for this use. You can pretty much use anything that you can make a bump stop out of. Ron
 
Here's how I did it:

  • Put jacks on camper & lift to just off the truck bed
  • Use rubber mallet to nudge jacks over until camper is aligned
  • Through turnbuckle access doors, installed wooden spacers between camper & sides of truck bed
  • Put jam nuts on turnbuckles to keep them from loosening again.

My camper has not come out of alignment since.

Here is a link to a post with pictures of my wooden spacers:

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/12156-keeping-it-centered/?hl=spacers
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads - WTW

HP415
Roof Alignment in 2000 Eagle Shell
Vic Harder
Vic Harder
W
Aftermarket Jackstand Ideas
Wandering Sagebrush
Wandering Sagebrush
T
2012 Four Wheel Camper Kestrel/Grandby
Wandering Sagebrush
Wandering Sagebrush
pods8
Some hawk dimensions (esp. superduty models)?
2
Riggs
R
E
Fixing/upgrading tree damaged ATC Bobcat
2
pods8
pods8

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom