Reborn Hawk..

B

Brandon

Advanced Member
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Jan 1, 2010
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Figured I'd start a thread since I have been posting in another one. Picked up this hawk at the Pick n Pull for $200. I've only got a few hours into it so I have a ways to go but currently stripping it down.

Anyway.. The gallery is here: http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/album/2255/197-brandons-junkyard-project/

How it looked in the yard
gallery_2255_197_132082.jpg


It had a modified front cab. Actually pretty clean but my goal is to lighten it up as much as possible for my Dodge Dakota..
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So the first thing was to remove the cap..
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Actually by that picture most of the interior had been gutted, including the pop up material which was shot (any suggestions for places in Sacramento to get a replacement?)

The one side of the upper bed was bent down so this is part of the reason for the tear down. It was also pretty waterlogged so removal of the plywood was in order

A beforeish inside picture
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The pile of some of what has been removed (much more to come!)
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Hard to see but this is the bent side, the oak reinforcement wood is broken and the welds on the frame are broken. Really surprised how little they are welded, you'd think you'd weld it more but I guess that is production for you
gallery_2255_197_13741.jpg


The other side as it sits
gallery_2255_197_30623.jpg


I don't have much time in yet. Not real sure where this is going but the current plan is to get it down to the aluminum frame. Then I am pretty sure I will weld up a lot of the frame that is just tacked now to make it a bit more rigid since I won't be putting back nearly as much of the inner support structure (weight weenie). I would like to see if I can get a new upper channel (Stan?) to put in since mine is in pretty bad shape. Once I get it down to that point I will build it back up maximizing the space to the contour of my bed. Not sure if I will use plywood for the bottom like what is in there now or not. I'd actually like to build it with no wood but we'll see if I go through with that. Anyway, picked it up just last weekend so this has just begun. I am not known for quick projects but I have built quite a few vehicles, houses, etc. Licensed Civil engineer by trade, fabricator by hobby.
 
Quite an undertaking Brandon (to say the least).. I think the welds are only tacked to allow for flex in the frame..I ripped an old one apart a few years back and was surprised by the welds as well.

If you get it stripped down and decide its to much, the price of recycled alluminum is up :)
 
Brandon, quite the project! Best of luck on it. Not only did we find the folks at FWC helpful but also the guys at ATC in Sacramento were a great help in our remodel of our Ranger II. And, of course all the great information on this forum! Get it done,,,,,they're a lot more fun out of the garage! :)
 
My $.02 worth: Talk to Marty at ATC or Stan at FWC to find out the reason for the welds being tack welds and how much inner support structure is necessary. These folks build these campers and repair them. Guidance at this point in the game may make your job easier in the long run. Many is the time I've wished I'd talked to someone who knew what they were doing before I started a project and learned the hard way what could make the project easier.
 
Ditto on all the comments. My understanding is that each joint is only welded on one side to allow for flex in the frame. And do call FWC and ATC for advice. I also second the rocommendation in the other thread for the RV Doctor. He will have used parts of anything you may need.

Really looking forward to following your rebuild. Good luck. Ted
 
As a civil engineer, you probably know about pinned vs. fixed structural connections, and how a moment-resisting metal connection can work harden, become brittle, and fail.

Not sure if that was the design intent, but having observed the framing and talked with the guys at ATC, fully welding the connections may not increase their life as much as you may think.

YMMV, Dan
 
As a civil engineer, you probably know about pinned vs. fixed structural connections, and how a moment-resisting metal connection can work harden, become brittle, and fail.

Not sure if that was the design intent, but having observed the framing and talked with the guys at ATC, fully welding the connections may not increase their life as much as you may think.

YMMV, Dan



yea.. I don't think that's the case, or else they would all be pinned (bolted) connections. Welding one side of a four sided tube to a flat surface and then applying a force say opposite the welded side in the direction of the weld does not justify a pinned connection - besides, the weld broke not the metal so the weak link is.. the weld. I've been wrong before but my guess is it is a time thing.

So.. is there some sort of registry? I assume that #733 is a build number?
 
Nasty, thats a project. Good luck and have fun. Your a better man than I. Hang on, maybe not better just smarter. One way to stay out of the Mrs. hair................
 
hi brandon.thanks for the e-mail.what is the inside length of the floor? with the extra "storage" area in front,seeing the picture of it on the ranger it looks short.seems like it's going to fir the truck ok now that you removed it.i have seen the frames at FWC &ATC as well as i remember they were welded on two of the four sides,seems only logical that you would weld two opposing sides of the joint.what can i do to help with the rebuild?give a call if you want to do some comparisons.frank


folks this guy can "weld the crack of dawn and silver solder a broken heart".
 
looking at the pictures again.this looks like it was a custom job not the size of the present day hawk.was this made in denver or just sold through a dealer there?



Yes, in Denver. I am pretty sure they are all the same width, the only difference is the part below the window - which appears to be all wood (someone could have cut out the framing possibly?). Someone did add the wheel well part and modify the bottom, that is for sure - and they added the front cap that I removed. I do plan on redoing the part below the windows to maximize fit to my bed. I don't have the exact measurement but it is made to fit a 6' bed, mine is about 8" short of that so it will stick out (possible leave tailgate on).

Toying with the idea of using sheet diamond plate up top at the bed area instead of plywood - solves a rot issue..
 
Toying with the idea of using sheet diamond plate up top at the bed area instead of plywood - solves a rot issue..


I think just the move away from MDF to a vinyl coated plywood has generally taken away that issue. I know someone else replaced the overhang panel and they just used plywood with some solid coats of epoxy paint or such. Basically having a wood that isn't so prone to water damage (like MDF) seems to go a long way.

As I linked in the thread you purchased from, that glidden floor & porch polyurethane stain builds up a nice looking protection layer. I sanded the bottom wood on my rig and put 3 coats on it and it did a good job of basically sealing up all the little weather cracks in the surface. It'd probably do well for the bed panel as well (I think they make it in a whitish color as well to match the camper).

Diamond plate seems like it'd flex if kept thin/light or be rather heavy if not.
 
Yes, in Denver. I am pretty sure they are all the same width, the only difference is the part below the window - which appears to be all wood (someone could have cut out the framing possibly?). Someone did add the wheel well part and modify the bottom, that is for sure - and they added the front cap that I removed. I do plan on redoing the part below the windows to maximize fit to my bed. I don't have the exact measurement but it is made to fit a 6' bed, mine is about 8" short of that so it will stick out (possible leave tailgate on).

Toying with the idea of using sheet diamond plate up top at the bed area instead of plywood - solves a rot issue..



brandon,mine sticks out 8",just to the end of the bumper.don't think you need the tailgate for that short of a distance.the campers made for short bed trucks all seem to just hang the extra distance over the back,no problem.seems like diamond plate might get slippery,just a thought.frank
 
brandon,mine sticks out 8",just to the end of the bumper.don't think you need the tailgate for that short of a distance.the campers made for short bed trucks all seem to just hang the extra distance over the back,no problem.seems like diamond plate might get slippery,just a thought.frank


Snuck out for a bit between feeding dogs, and putting the munchkins to sleep. Gettin' down to the frame! :cool:


gallery_2255_197_36066.jpg



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Wow, what a cool project.

I don't know how much time you have, but reading old posts, you could add in all those things that some of us wish we had......extra lights....water storage....reinforced walls so we can hang fuel/water cans off the back....places to attach home made arctic packs.....2nd ceiling vent.....

I think a lot of us secretly wish we could do this. But, time, money, and the fact we would rather be out in the woods probably tells me it will never happen.

dave
 
Wow, what a cool project.

I don't know how much time you have, but reading old posts, you could add in all those things that some of us wish we had......extra lights....water storage....reinforced walls so we can hang fuel/water cans off the back....places to attach home made arctic packs.....2nd ceiling vent.....

I think a lot of us secretly wish we could do this. But, time, money, and the fact we would rather be out in the woods probably tells me it will never happen.

dave


Nobody knows what would be cool more than people that have campers already so any input much appreciated!!

With 2 kids I am weighing the advantages of built in storage vs portable storage (water, stoves, etc). I first want to maximize the inside space (redoing the lower part) then get creative with stuff inside. Thinking fold down bunk beds on the side where the sink was, possibly a low profile sink/stove etc under the window side or near the cab. Definitely at least one more vent, different siding, flooring, etc. As for time I really only have maybe 3 hours into it so far, and it has only been a week. I am more of a turtle than a rabbit with projects but I try to do just a little something every day to get it done.
 
While the walls and floor are stripped, I would consider planning a path for future wires to be snaked from one side of the camper to the other.

Also, (and I cannot remember who recommended this originally) you can "mock up" the camping space and pretend to use it with your family to see how it might play. Not only does this help the design process, it's potentially fun.
 
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