Replaced fridge - Norcold 3.0 3-way with Dometic 3.8 DC

For this reason alone you might be better off with the Isotherm. Maybe MarkBC can comment on this since he installed the Isotherm.

It sounds like this Dometic is very similar in width to my Isotherm 130 -- a very tight fit to slide in, but looks like it was made for it when installed.

I didn't have to do anything to my camper door/frame to remove the Norco or install the Isotherm...but that's probably a function of the camper, not the fridge.

For those interested (not highjacking, but since leadsled9 mentioned me ;)), here was my install description:
Installation of Isotherm Cruise 130 Refrigerator
 
"2.6 CFM @ 100 psi"


Impressive...


Yeah...and a lot of compressors are "Continuous Duty" at 0 psi....this one is still "Continuous Duty" at 150 psi.
 
Great fridge, I have the next size down, the CR-1065, love it. I run mine off of a 105 AH primary with a 70AH backup powered by up to 235 watts of solar ( 135 moving + 100 more parked ). I love how quiet it is, the LED light inside and the separate freezer compartment.


Now, a word of caution in regards to the freezer. I talked to both Dometic / Weaco and Engel about this particular concern…

When the compressor is running, it cools from the freezer on down, but the thermostat is in the middle of the fridge. So if your fridge is super insulated like mine is, 1" thick multi-layer reflectix everywhere except the fan and adjoining goodies, the fridge will stay at the set temp longer, but the freezer *will* start to thaw. The way I found this out was while camping in cooler temps, say, 60 in the day, 40 or less at night, the thermo was set at 5-6 ish and the fridge stayed at 32-36-ish depending on how often it was opened. When the compressor stopped running the freezer was at 5-10F but as the night progressed and the fridge temp held, the freezer temp rose to about 30F, too warm for ice cream bars which indeed partially melted, IE, mushy. In one test at home the outside temp was 30F in the day, 15F at night. I ran it at a full blast setting of 7 until the compressor shut down. The fridge got down to 27F and the freezer to -5. Then I pulled back the power to a setting of 5 and watched what happened over a few days. In 4 days, the fridge was at 34F and the freezer was at 32F.

So I called both Dometic about my fridge and Engel regarding their more open bay SR-48 and SR71 series to see what the deal was. The overall consensus was that the freezer will keep ice, poultry, other items frozen, especially when the compressor is on a more frequent duty cycle, but ice cream especially in bar form needs to be at 10F or lower, not always attainable with this type of two zone fridge / freezer. At least the Dometic has the insulated door on the freezer while the Engel SR series does not.

It makes me wonder if I were not better off with less insulation so that the compressor would come on more often as it cools the freezer very fast, it's not like I lack the power to run it. I remember my Hagen Daz bars being frozen solid on a 85 degree day but melting with beefed up insulation on a 40 degree day..? Who knew?

I ran these temp tests with this dual zone thermometer which works very well.

This was of particular concern for me due to the fact that some of the rare black and white film I use that needs to be frozen costs over $50 a roll on ebay *if* you can even find it.

I would be interested to hear your results with the freezer when the compressor is not in heavy duty cycle mode.
 
Now, a word of caution in regards to the freezer. I talked to both Dometic / Weaco and Engel about this particular concern…

When the compressor is running, it cools from the freezer on down, but the thermostat is in the middle of the fridge. So if your fridge is super insulated like mine is, 1" thick multi-layer reflectix everywhere except the fan and adjoining goodies, the fridge will stay at the set temp longer, but the freezer *will* start to thaw.
It makes me wonder if I were not better off with less insulation so that the compressor would come on more often as it cools the freezer very fast, it's not like I lack the power to run it.

That's a great point, Kodachrome, and I think I've seen the same thing with my Isotherm. For the reasons you say, I think the unit needs a "reasonable" heat-gain rate (i.e., not too low, not too well-insulated) in order to keep the desired temperature differential between the freezer the and rest of the fridge. The only thing that keeps the fridge-part warmer than the freezer part is that it's gaining heat from the outside. Otherwise -- if you had perfect insulation -- the whole interior -- including the freezer -- will equilibrate to the same temperature, as you almost saw yourself.
 
Mark,

I was going to do a separate post on this as it has been a little project of mine to figure it out, but this seemed like the perfect time to discuss it. Honestly, it is only a problem with ice cream so it would seem. As long as my other goodies are frozen, my film is fine too.

So yes, oddly enough in terms of the freezer, it is kind of a "use it or lose it" case in terms of opening the fridge more often to get the compressor to cycle on and off. So if you truly want ice cream to stay good, you might have to pony up 10-20 or so extra amp hours to keep that compressor running more often.

I think I gained nearly 20% efficiency in the fridge holding it's temp with my super insulation job but at a cost of the freezer warming more often because of it. That's OK, I am less prone to wanting ice cream in the cooler times of the year than Summer when I am sure it will be fine.
 
I've been monitoring mine for the past few days.

I've noticed exactly the same behavior. When it was intially cooling down (compressor running all the time) the freezer got down to -20. After the compressor stopped running all the time the freezer went up to -5.

The nights have been mid 30's and days around 60 degrees. The fridge is set at 5 out of 7 and the interior is at 36-37 degrees and the freezer is at -3 to -5. This is with the freezer stuffed full of meat and yes...there are some Haagen Dazs bars in there too. When the freezer only had a few items it it....the temperature was around 0 degrees to +5 degrees so loading it up helped the freezer maintain a lower temperature.

I would be interested to see what happened when I get in really cold conditions.

I only have the one layer of thin reflectix insulation that came from the FWC factory. I was going to beef it up but there wasn't any room left over to do it....in retrospect....I'm glad I didn't.

I left both of my vents in the back open as they came from the factory. I wonder if we played around with closing off the bottom one and causing the fridge to work harder if the freezer temps would go up? Might be a fun experiment. Kind of like putting a cover over the radiator of a vehicle to get the radiator to heat up somemore on extremely cold days.

I think your observations are spot on guys.
 
Yeah, I would leave it as is. Seems like your freezer is getting a few degrees colder than mine does, even pre-insulation. We are heading towards the dead of Winter here so I can not really do a good test like if I were in AZ or something.

I just wish they had documentation in regards to these particular traits but neither company really does, and then even show ice cream in the freezer in the catalogs, LOL!

All this said, I just could not fathom going back to a 3-way fridge with how well these work, they are in another league....
 
Seems like your freezer is getting a few degrees colder than mine does, even pre-insulation.

Mine, too -- I don't have as big a difference between the freezer and fridge temps as I'd like, not as big as leadsled9 is measuring.

Hey! I just had an idea -- applicable to my Isotherm, if not other makes/models: Put a little insulation around the freezer (my freezer is not full-width) to create a bigger temperature difference between freezer and fridge. I think I'll try that. :)
 
Mine, too -- I don't have as big a difference between the freezer and fridge temps as I'd like, not as big as leadsled9 is measuring.

Hey! I just had an idea -- applicable to my Isotherm, if not other makes/models: Put a little insulation around the freezer (my freezer is not full-width) to create a bigger temperature difference between freezer and fridge. I think I'll try that. :)


I put a small piece of reflectix on the inside of the door, not sure if it did anything, every little bit helps I guess. My only thought is that maybe the CR-1110 Leadsled is using has a larger freezer so when it is full, it holds the colder temps better...?
 
Mine, too -- I don't have as big a difference between the freezer and fridge temps as I'd like, not as big as leadsled9 is measuring.

Hey! I just had an idea -- applicable to my Isotherm, if not other makes/models: Put a little insulation around the freezer (my freezer is not full-width) to create a bigger temperature difference between freezer and fridge. I think I'll try that. :)


Good idea. Also I was editing my post when Kodachrome was typing. We should try playing with the vents.
 
On my maiden voyage after getting the Isotherm I was a little disappointed that at the proper temperature for the fridge the freezer let ice cream get soft. It keeps meat (e.g., chicken breasts) frozen, though, so it does what I need...just not all I want.
tongue.gif


Yeah, now I think there is room for tweaking...I'll try that.
 
I put a small piece of reflectix on the inside of the door, not sure if it did anything, every little bit helps I guess. My only thought is that maybe the CR-1110 Leadsled is using has a larger freezer so when it is full, it holds the colder temps better...?


Plus I'm quite certain that mine is cycling more often than your super-insulated fridge.
 
Plus I'm quite certain that mine is cycling more often than your super-insulated fridge.


Any idea what you are pulling for total amp hours in a 24 hour span? I think I was getting around 45AH in warm weather, pre-super insulation and see about 20-25AH in cold weather with the wrap.
 
When I was ready to install my fridge I called FWC for some advise. One of the things Terry told me to do was to seal off the lower vent (they actually sell a solid door to replace the vent/door on the bottom) and leave the top vent open. I wonder if that is to make the fridge cycle more often and maintain more difference between the freezer and fridge.
 
When I was ready to install my fridge I called FWC for some advise. One of the things Terry told me to do was to seal off the lower vent (they actually sell a solid door to replace the vent/door on the bottom) and leave the top vent open. I wonder if that is to make the fridge cycle more often and maintain more difference between the freezer and fridge.


Is the rear of your camper sealed in terms of the vents for the propane operation at the fridge area then? Mine is left open for maintenance reasons, IE, cleaning dust off of the compressor fan and area as per the manual, so I sealed the front bottom vent and all the facade for that matter to keep dust, cold and heat from the outside from getting in the camper....hmmmm....
 
My fridge is completely sealed off from the camper so no dust will come in. I'm refering to the back vents. There is a large vent/door on the bottom and a smaller fixed vent (not a door) on the top. I might try sealing off the larger vent/door with reflectix and see what effect that has.

I'm thinking that would make my fridge work a little harder.
 
Any idea what you are pulling for total amp hours in a 24 hour span? I think I was getting around 45AH in warm weather, pre-super insulation and see about 20-25AH in cold weather with the wrap.


It's really hard for me to judge this time of year....since the sun only hits the camper roof for 3 hours out of the day at a decent angle.
 
I put a small piece of reflectix on the inside of the door, not sure if it did anything, every little bit helps I guess. My only thought is that maybe the CR-1110 Leadsled is using has a larger freezer so when it is full, it holds the colder temps better...?


I was all set to buy the Isotherm...but I was totally turned off by the small freezer. Also, I picked up the Waeco for about $300-$400 less.
 

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