Rice Build thread!

My Eagle shell does not have the Yakima tracks. Being a cyclist I'm already heavily invested in rack stuff. Most of it the older rain gutter style. I also have 8 of the Yakima roof mount artificial rain gutters. I've talked with a couple of folks who have used these on their camper with no issues.

I've ID'ed 6 places along the 2 heavy beams in the roof where they intersect with like sized cross beams. About a foot from each end and in the center. This will allow me to mount 6 feet for 3 crossbars in the strongest spots on the roof. The roof rack will hold the 160 watt solar panel down the passenger side front 2 bars. and the solar shower down the outside of the drivers side forward. This should prevent the vents from shading the panel. It should also allow room to occasionally carry my solo canoe. It also keeps the shower tent forward away from the furnace vent in the rear.

This is the mount style I'll use. The cross bars I have for Yakima are too short so I'll probably get 3 aluminum longer bars to save some weight. I've used these style mounts on quite a few truck caps with no issues over the years. I don't intend to get stupid with weight up there for sure. They will be bolted through the roof and sealed with a Sikaflex type sealant.


I need to order some marine grade cabling, connectors, and other small parts for the wiring. Then make decisions on just where to mount the electrical stuff. I also intend to mount an outboard electrical connector on the drivers side rear under the edge of the camper. This will give me a place to plug in the portable panels either in addition to the main panel or instead of. The roof stuff will be easily removable with these mount should the need arise. But also lockable.
 
I've been doing some home work the last few days. I think I have found the additional Yakima towers I want. The prices for this stuff on E*** are downright stupid. Often higher than catalog prices on new Yakima stuff. I'm more versed in Thule and have a lot of that as well. It's also made of metal and muh cheaper used. I compared towers yesterday. The Thule's are almost an inch shorter bar height which would be nice. But I would need 4 towers as I only have 2 spares. The Yakima's are plastic, taller and I doubt as strong. But they are strong enough for this. Will be lighter and I can easily get aluminum bar's for them to cut the weight even more. So that's probably the way I'm going.

I checked out my campers wiring yesterday. It is indeed wired for solar to the roof but not to the rear. That's fine. I can add it to the side easily. The wiring is probably adequate for what they do from the factory but far from optimal for my standards. It's 12 gauge with very thin insulation and not real flexy. There is also wiring to the battery box for the charge controller. For now I will use the factory wiring just to see how the system sets up. But may upgrade in the future depending on performance.

In the Eagle Shell the battery and shut off switch is behind the cabinet door in the furnace/stove box. The carpeted ledge on the drivers side opens and inside is the fuse box and the battery separator and wiring. Solar and charge controller wiring are pulled to here as well. There is a circuit breaker on the cabling between the battery separator and the truck charge cable. The fuse box has every circuit fused.





I have a couple of questions for anyone that can answer.

What is everyone doing to connect the panels on the roof? I'm not crazy about using an SAE 2 pin up there. Small wire and pretty cheesy in general. Can anyone point me to a junction box that would line up well with the one inside the roof. I like the idea of something like these but they are large and or tape down to the roof.

This would be nice but is large and would be hard to find something to fasten it to in the roof.
https://www.amazon.com/POWER-CABLE-GP-CEP-Go-Power/dp/B01AQ7FIXA/ref=pd_sbs_86_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31jT%2BSgJYsL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=V3W090TTGDASYG6JGKPX

I suppose this could be Pop Riveted to the roof metal in addition to tape or glue.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111RNZDY?psc=1

I've found the inside junction box but do not have a roof penetration at this point.

I also seem to remember someone here upgrading the wiring inside their camper from the hinge panel to the Battery/charge controller. But I can't seem to find the thread. Help with that would be appreciated as well.

Just thought I'd add for reference. I did some cable tracing.

The charge cable from the truck comes into a circuit breaker then to the battery separator. The house battery is wired to the other terminal of the separator. A white wire leaves the same terminal and goes to the main cutoff switch and then back to feed the main side of the fuse panel. So the main cut off does NOT affect battery charging. Only the main feed to the fuse block.

The battery has to have the cables removed to really disconnect it.
 
I used a similar product for the roof entry:

IMG_4693.jpg


IMG_4700.jpg


IMG_4801.jpg


Heres the link to the pass through: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GYL7CC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The wire I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008JHXF4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I was reading Fatmab's thread and the light bulb went off. I have a choice of several different 90* thru hull boat fittings that could be used to route wire through for the roof penetration. These are just laying in a box in the basement. So I checked a couple of them out.

This one will bolt through up to an inch of thickness. A true 90 is a little tight for wire routing compared to an electrical specific elbow with a more gradual sweep. But it works. A squirt of caulk in the hole and the wires are sealed. These are 10 gauge auto wire just for a trial. This should work fine. It is actually a thru hull fitting for a bilge pump on a boat. I think I would have no problem getting 8 gauge through it if I went that route.



Same thing in white.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/attwood--90-degree-through-hull-connector--6703276?cm_mmc=PS:sleep:MSN:sleep:Shopping%20PLAs:sleep:6703276?creative=11484886480&device=c&matchtype=e

I also have several tubes of Polyurethane caulk. Pretty much the same thing as Sika-flex just a cheaper contractor brand. Color is cedar tan because it was bought for my log home. I'll use it as a sealant. Like the above fitting is has long since been paid for and won't show much on the roof anyway.
 
Just to answer a question that came up previously.

Yes Truckfridge does sell the 12 volt cable plug assemblies separately. I just ordered one today. $25.

In my case I'll cut off the lighter plug and install an Anderson power pole. That way I'll have the stock set up if needed for another vehicle.

Lot's of cable, connectors, and rack parts on order. I hope to be testing some solar stuff real soon.
 
Well I'm sorta getting started on the build. I got the camper up from the back yard and in the drive. Washed it good yesterday/ The roof was filthy after being down under the trees.

I pulled all the loose stuff out of the interior to make room for moving stuff around and working.

I found the junction box in the ceiling for the solar stuff and everything else.

1st I had to pop loose the inside lifting struts. Then remove 6 screws to drop the front lifting board.





Inside is a ground buss bar. This verifies they use the frame for ground like most cars. Looks like FWC forgot to tighten one of the mounting screws. I hope that's all they missed. The 2 yellow crimp connectors are for the solar panel back to the electrical area under the side ledge.


I think I've figured out where to mount the rack pads on the roof. Blue tape in 2nd pic marks the center bar location. Front and rear roof rack bars will be about 45" either way from this. Roof vents will be between the bars. The bars should be pretty much centered with the windows in the canvas. Which will offset the entire rack system rearward just a bit.


I had to order a few more small parts for the wiring. But they should be here Wed. In the meantime I'll work on mounting the rack feet on the roof and the solar panel.

Now if we could just get the heat out of the stupid range. Temps high 90's and humidity over 75%. Not much fun for working outside.
 
I made some real progress. The Yakima top loaders have been installed. Trying to get the spacing right for these was quite trying. Too many things in the way like interior lights and roof vents and maintaining clearance on the inside for for the folded up end walls when the roof is closed. I ended up with a wider spacing between the front and center racks than between the center and rear racks. But that's fine. It'll just look a little asymmetrical.

So once I figured out where all the brackets were going to mount I marked the locations on the inside so I could use the ceiling strips as a drill guide.


I drilled pilot holes and then rechecked the spacing on the outside.


Once that was done I used the proper bit and opened up the holes. Then I loosely bolted all the brackets in place for yet another check.


Regular nuts for the test fit. I cut 1/4" off the bolts with a cutoff wheel in a Dremel. Then used Nylock nuts for the final install. Tightened to just snug. I didn't want to crush or damage the beam in the roof.


I then masked around the brackets and removed them.


The area was wiped down with solvent as were the brackets. I want the caulk to stick and I don't want leaks or to do this job again. I'm using a urethane caulk that is similar to Sikaflex. Not only will it seal but it will glue the brackets to the roof. All the brackets were bolted in place with Marine grade stainless steel hardware. The bolts are not a high grade bolt. Probably around grade 2 or 3. But I figure that's enough considering I'm bolting to a roof beam that not much more than a beer can covered in tin foil. Other than the solar shower and the solar panel I don't plan to carry much more than a light canoe occasionally. That's another reason for using 3 bars. To spread the weight over the roof. The bars will also give me a place to lash a tarp for an awning if needed.

Tan caulk because like so much else I'm trying to make use of stuff I already have on hand.


Just to be sure about leaks.


Installed.


 
I found this when I brought the camper up from the backyard. Some critter has been gnawing on it. This part of the camper will get a couple of coats of bedliner soon.


The electrical stuff is hidden underneath this bench in the shell models.


Fuse box, battery separator, loose wiring for the solar panel, and the long wire goes forward to connect to the truck battery. I figure I'll probably mount the solar charger controller here as well.


I'll let the caulk on the roof mounts cure for a couple of days before attaching racks. Then on to the solar stuff. I think I'm going to run up and pick up my group 31 deep cycle storage battery in a while.
 
Now that's a Battery!


Compared to the box the old group 24 used to sit in.


110 amp hours which is about the same as both of my group 34 Optima Blue Tops combined. But about 1/3 less weight than both of them. This battery is a Group 31 Sealed Lead Acid. It's a true Deep cycle storage battery. Not a hybrid like the Optima AGMs. It should be perfect for a solar system.
 
I've used PowerSonics in embedded industrial systems and they've been good although most were their smaller batteries.

How did you choose between the PG 12v103-FR over the PDC 121000 batteries. I looked at data sheets for the two and was wondering. Just curious.There must be some difference as they use different chargers

Paul
 
I had spoken to the folks at the battery place earlier about my needs.
True deep cycle performance. No need for cranking amp rating.
No acid or water maintenance. Spill proof.
High capacity for the weight.
Reasonable cost.
Long life.

This is the battery they suggested. The PDC's are AGMs. It's my understanding that the AGMs don't have the same deep cycle performance that the sealed lead acid does.

I'm no expert on batteries. So I went on the recommendations of those who are. This also seemed to offer a big bang for the buck. Price is less than an AGM. It is also designed for the way I'll use it. Long slow power draw and slow to moderate recharging.
 
Hey I've got a great idea. How about taking a 1/2" drill and a hole saw to the nice new 1 piece roof of the camper! :shock:


So I did! to make a penetration for the solar panel cables.


I haven't been impressed with most of the options for capping or sealing these holes. Nor did I like the idea of a cheesy 2 pin SAE connector up there. So I decided to use a Marine bilge pump thru hull fitting. I test fit the cable through the fitting 1st to be sure it would work. I also have a couple of spares should it break.


Like the Yakima top loaders it was sealed with urethane caulk.




Now I'm done drilling holes in the roof and can vacuum out the metal shavings from inside the camper. Then on to setting up the battery mounting and solar charging stuff. Along with wiring upgrades.
 
Today was a research day. Trying to get access to existing wiring. The camper is wired in typical RV fashion which is OK. But I want optimum performance from my charging stuff. So I'll upgrade some of the wiring to larger gauges to reduce voltage loss, add some circuit protection, and make it easier to service in the future if needed.

1st the stuff in the electronics box under the bench was installed before the faces were put on the cabinets. So I had to remove the cabinet face to be able to get to it.
A few screws and off it came.


Much better access. The loose wire is the solar cable from the roof and to the battery box. I checked the model and serial# on the battery separator. It appears mine is NOT part of the recall. :D


This is the cable that goes to the truck for battery charging while driving. it will be upgraded to 6 gauge.
And I'll add a pair of 8 gauge cables to run camper power to the truck cab to run the fridge in the truck off the camper battery.


I think I can get to most of the wiring between the bench box and battery box through the furnace vent. I'll remove the face of that cabinet if I have to but would prefer not. But some of the wiring goes through the propane box. I removed the face of the lower cabinet to access it.




Of course I'll need materials for this upgrade. 6/2 marine cable from truck battery to camper battery. 8/2 marine cable for fridge wiring to truck and for building a portable solar suitcase from my 2 60 watt panels. 16/2 cable just to have on hand for station wiring if needed. Fuse holders in 8 +12 gauge for solar panel wiring.


Lot's of different Anderson Powerpole SB50 connectors. Red for truck power cable. Orange for portable solar. Blue for fridge wiring to truck and into the camper compartment. I intend to get rid of the flaky lighter plug connection.
Plus 2 Marine 50 amp switchable circuit breakers. To be mounted at each battery. These will serve as battery switches and breakers. Also dust boots and covers for any exposed Powerpole connectors.


10' 10 gauge MC4 extension cables for the roof mounted solar panel. I have the MC$ wrenches as well.


Next is to inventory ring terminals and pick any I don't have along with some more heat shrink tubing and Liquid Electrical Tape. And then lay out the locations of the components and start wiring and terminating.
 
This thread has been a little neglected. I kinda got interrupted by blowing up my truck and having to buy a new/used one. But I've been working on the camper when I can. I've upgraded wiring gauges where I could without ripping out all the factory stuff. I wish the factory solar panel cabling to the roof was bigger but too much work to upgrade that right now. I did manage to cut 2 or 3 feet in length of that cable by putting the charge controller in the battery cabinet rather than under the bench. This also gets the charger controller very close to the battery.

I had to remove the faces off all cabinets on the drivers side. And remove the furnace to get to the wiring runs.


All holes like this had to be doubled for the new wiring. I had to get a little creative here and there. Not much room to work.
This is the hole the truck battery wiring goes through.


When I removed the old truck charging cable I found this. A spliced cable with + to - and - to +. Scary stuff!


I upgraded that cable to 6 gauge marine wire and installed an Anderson SB50 connector with boot and cover.


In addition to that I also ran 2 8 gauge wires back forward through a circuit breaker. One inside the camper and one towards the truck. To provide power to run the fridge in either place off the camper battery. I have an extra 12 volt power cord for the fridge that has a matching connector.


I added marine common posts for both the + and - cables to meet at. Safe way to join several cables.


I used some spare cedar 1"x1" to make a frame for the battery to sit in and adapted the hold down strap that came with the camper.


We often set a small led flashlight in the corner behind the stove. It's usually enough light to do what we need to do. I had a small led light left from my boat project so I decided to place that there. I had been thinking about this for a while.
Soldered and heat shrunk.




Finished product. The switch will be just inside the battery compartment door frame.
 
Important stuff to install in the battery compartment. Switchable 50 amp circuit breaker for the battery. There will be a matching one at the truck battery as well. 500 amp shunt. 30 amp circuit breaker for solar cables to controller. And the Bogart SC2030 charge controller for the solar panels.


Terminating a cable. I bought lots of different terminals for both 6 +8 gauge cable. Different sized holes for the various devices.

Heat shrink on trimmed cable.


Insulation trimmed to the correct length.


Terminal crimped on. I don't have enough hands to show the crimping process.


And heat shrink. I made a bunch of these in the last few days.


New cables routed and dressed in around the furnace compartment.


Nearly complete battery compartment. Still need to dress cables a little and add the battery cables and hook up the Bogart Trimetric battery monitor.


Battery goes direct to the 50 amp circuit breaker. The charge controller is hooked up to the un-protected side but has a fuse in line. All other loads on downstream side of breaker. 6 gauge from battery though breaker to common post under the bench. To separator then on to truck battery end. Same on Neg side but through the shunt for the Trimetric. No loads on battery side of shunt.

I ran the 12 gauge from the roof panel and an 8 gauge for portable panels to a 30 amp breaker then on to the charge controller. 8 gauge from controller to battery.


I hope to have the wiring done and the solar up and charging in a day or 2. Then on to mounting in the truck.
 
Wow, this is all so timely! I want to add solar and dual battery to my Hawk Shell and this is great and well documented work!

I was wondering about the 6 gauge that goes to the truck battery, and thinking I would do 4 gauge. Seeing your excellent work, I assume you had a good reason for choosing 6g. Can you explain that a bit for me? I'm thinking it has to do with the length of the run and expected current draw, as in - what can your alternator put out?
 
I wasn't very scientific. The truck I had intended to put this on has a small alternator. 50 amps. The truck was small so lengths were short. It's a good step up from what was on the camper already (10 gauge). In my reading most folks that had upgraded to 6 gauge have had no issues with voltage drop or charging. 6 gauge was also available as duplex marine cable so that's what I used.

The new truck has a larger alternator. But the length is still direct and short. Reality is with the solar setup I'm building and expected amp draw of the camper I doubt truck charging will get used much. I don't think I'll even get the truck wiring done before our beach trip!

The battery I'm using is a true deep cycle that wants a slow low amp charge. It's not a match for the truck battery. So I'll speak with the manufacturer before I hook it up to the truck alternator to make sure there are no conflicts.

Here is a gauge table on the Bogart site.
http://www.bogartengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/docs/SC2030-9-10-15-UsersInstruc.pdf
 
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