Squatch
Senior Member
Nice to know. Now if they would sell the fan part as an add on for the vents I already have!
Rice Build thread!
- Thread starter Squatch
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- 2012 eagle shell
Squatch
Senior Member
Just built my new solar suitcase charger.
Back when I bought the big 160 watt panel for the roof of my camper I also bought 2 smaller 60 watt panels. Couldn't beat the price.
I placed the panels side by side on a table and connected them with 3 small hinges I had.
Pop riveted on.
I added some web strap handle to carry the suitcase.
I used 10 gauge automotive primary wire to connect the 2 panels in parallel. There wasn't room in the connection box for 8 gauge connectors. The other end of the short cables go to a color coded (orange) Anderson powerpole connector.
The Anderson connector plugs into an extension cable I made out of 8 gauge duplex marine cable. with Anderson connectors on each end. Other than the few inches of 10 gauge at the panels the entire wire run is 8 gauge.
This extension plugs into a connector at the back of the camper. Inside the wire goes through a fuse to the charge controller. It's wired parallel to the main panel on the roof.
I still haven't decided on how I'm going to do the legs just yet. I'm thinking some aluminum angle that folds out from each end on the sides. But till I've used it a few times and figured out the angles I need I'll just prop it up on whatever is handy.
Together these panels make 120 watts. added to the 160 on the roof that 280 watts of solar power. Nice to have the extra in the winter or at times when it's cloudy or otherwise have a short time to charge the battery.
Yesterday when I tried it out it was very cloudy. And the camper battery was at 100%. The fridge has been turned off since mid December. So I turned it on max and turned the temp down to 0* to draw the battery down for a few minutes. Per my Trimetric monitor as soon as I plugged the panels in the amperage being charged doubled and the voltage went up a couple of 10ths. I consider this a success. even with very little sun the battery was topped off in a few minutes.
I intend to pick up a small self contained charge controller to add to this. I'll use the same 8 gauge cable and an Anderson connector to be able to connect the charge controller to the extension cable. I'll do the same on the output side so I can switch battery connection by just plugging them in. This way I can use this setup as a stand alone battery charger. My trolling motor batteries in the boat need charging after every trip. I can use this to do that at home or even on the river.
Back when I bought the big 160 watt panel for the roof of my camper I also bought 2 smaller 60 watt panels. Couldn't beat the price.
I placed the panels side by side on a table and connected them with 3 small hinges I had.
Pop riveted on.
I added some web strap handle to carry the suitcase.
I used 10 gauge automotive primary wire to connect the 2 panels in parallel. There wasn't room in the connection box for 8 gauge connectors. The other end of the short cables go to a color coded (orange) Anderson powerpole connector.
The Anderson connector plugs into an extension cable I made out of 8 gauge duplex marine cable. with Anderson connectors on each end. Other than the few inches of 10 gauge at the panels the entire wire run is 8 gauge.
This extension plugs into a connector at the back of the camper. Inside the wire goes through a fuse to the charge controller. It's wired parallel to the main panel on the roof.
I still haven't decided on how I'm going to do the legs just yet. I'm thinking some aluminum angle that folds out from each end on the sides. But till I've used it a few times and figured out the angles I need I'll just prop it up on whatever is handy.
Together these panels make 120 watts. added to the 160 on the roof that 280 watts of solar power. Nice to have the extra in the winter or at times when it's cloudy or otherwise have a short time to charge the battery.
Yesterday when I tried it out it was very cloudy. And the camper battery was at 100%. The fridge has been turned off since mid December. So I turned it on max and turned the temp down to 0* to draw the battery down for a few minutes. Per my Trimetric monitor as soon as I plugged the panels in the amperage being charged doubled and the voltage went up a couple of 10ths. I consider this a success. even with very little sun the battery was topped off in a few minutes.
I intend to pick up a small self contained charge controller to add to this. I'll use the same 8 gauge cable and an Anderson connector to be able to connect the charge controller to the extension cable. I'll do the same on the output side so I can switch battery connection by just plugging them in. This way I can use this setup as a stand alone battery charger. My trolling motor batteries in the boat need charging after every trip. I can use this to do that at home or even on the river.
wuck
Senior Member
Very cool Squatch. I've been thinking about upgrading my two @ 50 watt Kyocera panels to a larger single panel, but didn't want them all on the roof. Now I know what to do with them 
Thanks!
Thanks!
Squatch
Senior Member
I have a little experiment going on. As of last Thursday evening I had a 100% full battery in my Eagle. That was the beginning of a camping trip. The fridge has been on and the furnace has been run a few times everyday. The solar panels have seen no real sun since Thursday. I got home yesterday and the fridge is still running. My camper is not hooked up to the truck for charging. As of this evening the battery is at 79%. The sun is supposed to come back out Wednesday morning. I'm going to let everything stay as is till then. I want to see how low the battery gets with modest normal usage and no charging for nearly a week. That should be a decent baseline for future reference.
Squatch
Senior Member
I forgot about the above post. Bottom line I went 5+ days of running the fridge and a couple of cycles of the furnace morning and evening. This parked in the shade on very overcast days with very minimal charging. Never got the battery below 78%
I spent some money today in the name of a good nights sleep.
The camper came with pads to cover the bed made out of concrete foam. That didn't work so well. We then went to what is posted above. A rigid foam filler to make up the gap caused by the pullout.
Topped with 2 REI 3.5" self inflating pads. This surrounded by an edge filler of 4" memory foam scrap I had. This keeps the mattresses together in the middle. Bottom line this has worked well and is very warm in cold weather. Very comfy. Not as bulky as the factory cushions when stowed. But requires me to set up the full queen bed. And one of my self inflaters is leaking at a seam now.
So today I went to the "House of foam". I took all the cushions from the camper. They let me try several pieces laid on the floor. We found one that felt good. Still 4" like the factory foam. But a heavier density and not as firm or rigid. I sink into these cushions. But cannot drive my hip into the floor. Should be real nice. They wrapped the cut foam in some kind of slick wispy material and lightly spray glued the edges. This stuff made the cushions slide right into the upholstery slick as a whistle. So now we have new softer cushions in the factory covers.
With a double sleeping bag on top. I laid up there for a while. It felt good. It was also easy to crawl around. Before with the self inflater's or with a topper on the factory cushions. It was cumbersome to crawl about.
New foam on top vs Old foam on bottom. These feel completely different when you squeeze them. The new stuff is a little more springy feeling. and compresses better.
So at the moment I'm thinking this is the best route to go. But it's not cheap. The advantages are I can set the bed up in 3 different lengths with the factory cushions. And set up is simple. The cushions just have to be stored when traveling.
The old large mattress was like trying to get plywood in and out of the door. The new one was a piece of cake as it would bend easily.
I spent some money today in the name of a good nights sleep.
The camper came with pads to cover the bed made out of concrete foam. That didn't work so well. We then went to what is posted above. A rigid foam filler to make up the gap caused by the pullout.
Topped with 2 REI 3.5" self inflating pads. This surrounded by an edge filler of 4" memory foam scrap I had. This keeps the mattresses together in the middle. Bottom line this has worked well and is very warm in cold weather. Very comfy. Not as bulky as the factory cushions when stowed. But requires me to set up the full queen bed. And one of my self inflaters is leaking at a seam now.
So today I went to the "House of foam". I took all the cushions from the camper. They let me try several pieces laid on the floor. We found one that felt good. Still 4" like the factory foam. But a heavier density and not as firm or rigid. I sink into these cushions. But cannot drive my hip into the floor. Should be real nice. They wrapped the cut foam in some kind of slick wispy material and lightly spray glued the edges. This stuff made the cushions slide right into the upholstery slick as a whistle. So now we have new softer cushions in the factory covers.
With a double sleeping bag on top. I laid up there for a while. It felt good. It was also easy to crawl around. Before with the self inflater's or with a topper on the factory cushions. It was cumbersome to crawl about.
New foam on top vs Old foam on bottom. These feel completely different when you squeeze them. The new stuff is a little more springy feeling. and compresses better.
So at the moment I'm thinking this is the best route to go. But it's not cheap. The advantages are I can set the bed up in 3 different lengths with the factory cushions. And set up is simple. The cushions just have to be stored when traveling.
The old large mattress was like trying to get plywood in and out of the door. The new one was a piece of cake as it would bend easily.
Squatch
Senior Member
The couch cushions are the same stuff as the old bed cushions. Firm is not as bad on the couch. Your weight is not nearly as spread out when sitting. But the old foam on the couch was a little squashed "Squatched" from being sat on. So to save some money I had them cut 2 replacement cushions out of the lightly used old large bed cushion. Worked fine for the moment. I can always drop by and have softer cushions cut for the couch as well. Especially now that I know the backrest also has a zipper on the cushion.
Speaking of the zippers. The man at the foam shop commented on the good quality zippers FWC used and the wrap around which made it easy to swap the foam.
For now these will be fine. I'm really the only person that sits here much anyway.
Speaking of the zippers. The man at the foam shop commented on the good quality zippers FWC used and the wrap around which made it easy to swap the foam.
For now these will be fine. I'm really the only person that sits here much anyway.
Squash !
Did you happen to get the density/firmness of the foam?
!Did you happen to get the density/firmness of the foam?
Squatch
Senior Member
I don't have a number. They called it high density/ medium firmness.
I think the weight is 2.2lbs per sq foot. Pretty sure the density is higher than stock but not near as firm. The new foam is heavier than stock.
I think the weight is 2.2lbs per sq foot. Pretty sure the density is higher than stock but not near as firm. The new foam is heavier than stock.
Squatch nice work and you will never regret the investment in a good night's sleep.
After a year on the concrete slab I sourced a foam replacement. You are right not cheap! We decided to try replacing only the large 48x 66" foam to see how it felt. It was terrific. Instead of replacing the four smaller cushions we kept the original but.... we changed how we set up the bed: we put two cushions at the foot, then the large then two at the head. That way it is only the feet and your head (which usually is on a pillow) that is on the original foam... The torso is on the new foam. Works for us. This is the foam I bought:
After a year on the concrete slab I sourced a foam replacement. You are right not cheap! We decided to try replacing only the large 48x 66" foam to see how it felt. It was terrific. Instead of replacing the four smaller cushions we kept the original but.... we changed how we set up the bed: we put two cushions at the foot, then the large then two at the head. That way it is only the feet and your head (which usually is on a pillow) that is on the original foam... The torso is on the new foam. Works for us. This is the foam I bought:
Attachments
Squatch
Senior Member
Thought I'd post a couple of reference pics of my fridge set up.
It's on a mounting base on the floor up front. Held down with 4 sheet rock screws. Quick test that I've had no reason to change.
When camped the bed is usually extended. This sits nicely under that with good access.
The compressor is towards the front. The handles and the cushions provide good air flow to the fridge even when the floor is packed for traveling.
When the bed is extended the fridge lid just touches it enough to hold the lid up. How handy is that?
I've got my packing system down pretty well. I have two lightweight GCI directors chairs that fold and slide in between the bench and the fridge when on the road. There is enough room to add one of my CRV tables if I take one. The framework of the chairs doesn't restrict airflow to the fridge.
It's on a mounting base on the floor up front. Held down with 4 sheet rock screws. Quick test that I've had no reason to change.
When camped the bed is usually extended. This sits nicely under that with good access.
The compressor is towards the front. The handles and the cushions provide good air flow to the fridge even when the floor is packed for traveling.
When the bed is extended the fridge lid just touches it enough to hold the lid up. How handy is that?
I've got my packing system down pretty well. I have two lightweight GCI directors chairs that fold and slide in between the bench and the fridge when on the road. There is enough room to add one of my CRV tables if I take one. The framework of the chairs doesn't restrict airflow to the fridge.
Squatch
Senior Member
Some friends are moving due to a new job. They had a small utility trailer they needed to get rid of quickly. So I bought it cheap.
The Eagle camper is stored outside and often just sits on milk crates in the drive when not in use. It's also been stored on one of my boat trailers at times. This allows me to move it around the property if needed. So I thought this trailer might work for that as well. Maybe even use it on the new trailer as a tag along. That will take a little fab work on the trailer as the pics will show. Weight rating of the trailer is 1,650 so it will carry the camper.
For the time being I just mounted it the easiest way without mods.
Set it on milk crates to clear the rails and chained it down lightly with stock turnbuckles. Jacks touch the ground just barely to provide stability.
There are a couple of problems. The 1st is that I thought the tailgate was removable by sliding it off the hinges sideways. Nope! It could have been if one hinges was welded on the other direction. That's fixable. In the meantime I have a porch and the gate will close with camper on.
The other biggy is that the camper is 51" wide at the rear section and the trailer inside width is 49". That is also fixable with some fab work and welding. I would do that to use the camper on the trailer on the road. Though not really needed for around the property use.
A longer tongue would be needed for on the road towing but that's easy. It's a bolt on.
For now it's fine for storing the camper at home and is available if needed for moving snow equipment and garden tractors and such if needed.
The Eagle camper is stored outside and often just sits on milk crates in the drive when not in use. It's also been stored on one of my boat trailers at times. This allows me to move it around the property if needed. So I thought this trailer might work for that as well. Maybe even use it on the new trailer as a tag along. That will take a little fab work on the trailer as the pics will show. Weight rating of the trailer is 1,650 so it will carry the camper.
For the time being I just mounted it the easiest way without mods.
Set it on milk crates to clear the rails and chained it down lightly with stock turnbuckles. Jacks touch the ground just barely to provide stability.
There are a couple of problems. The 1st is that I thought the tailgate was removable by sliding it off the hinges sideways. Nope! It could have been if one hinges was welded on the other direction. That's fixable. In the meantime I have a porch and the gate will close with camper on.
The other biggy is that the camper is 51" wide at the rear section and the trailer inside width is 49". That is also fixable with some fab work and welding. I would do that to use the camper on the trailer on the road. Though not really needed for around the property use.
A longer tongue would be needed for on the road towing but that's easy. It's a bolt on.
For now it's fine for storing the camper at home and is available if needed for moving snow equipment and garden tractors and such if needed.
Squatch
Senior Member
Fine for the driveway. I wouldn't drive on the road like that even though it would probably be fine.
Squatch
Senior Member
I decided to start some more camper tuning. To use the Eagle in my Tundra I had to build a platform. I went quick and simple with 2x4's and plywood. It's pictured above. The design worked great but needed a little tweaking for a better camper fit. So I took it apart to reuse the plywood and made a new one of 2x3's. This should have the wings of the camper just at the bedrails.
I did some light sanding on the wood for the new one. No great pains just knocked the fuzz and splinters off. Much better for painting.
2 coats on all sides of some gloss, dark grey, latex porch enamel. The camper base will get the same treatment next.
Not really enough room for any storage so I insulated the underside of the platform with 2" rigid foam. I figure it has to help in cold weather.
Finished product.
I've found that with the hard bed cover that came with my truck I can usually leave the riser in the truck when the camper is off and still have good use of the bed most times. Saves finding a place to store the riser.
I figure with no insulation this 2" has to help under the camper. In the next few days I intend to pull the camper in the garage and give the bottom plywood a couple of good coats of the same stuff. I was thinking of using a DIY bed liner product but I intend to insulate the bottom of the camper and figured the paint would be simpler. It's cheaper for sure. The camper also has recesses under it like the riser. But only 1' deep. FWC put skid strips on the bottom that form this. I also bought some 3/4" rigid foam and will insulate under the camper floor as well. Just like the riser. That will be almost 3" of foam under the floor. Before cold weather next fall I'm thinking of also wrapping similar foam around the exterior of the plywood base.
As far as tuning the fit I have found some firm poly foam I intend to use to replace the big rubber baby buggy bumpers on the front of the camper base. I should be able to get it at least an inch closer to the rear of the truck cab that way. Too much gap as it is.
I did some light sanding on the wood for the new one. No great pains just knocked the fuzz and splinters off. Much better for painting.
2 coats on all sides of some gloss, dark grey, latex porch enamel. The camper base will get the same treatment next.
Not really enough room for any storage so I insulated the underside of the platform with 2" rigid foam. I figure it has to help in cold weather.
Finished product.
I've found that with the hard bed cover that came with my truck I can usually leave the riser in the truck when the camper is off and still have good use of the bed most times. Saves finding a place to store the riser.
I figure with no insulation this 2" has to help under the camper. In the next few days I intend to pull the camper in the garage and give the bottom plywood a couple of good coats of the same stuff. I was thinking of using a DIY bed liner product but I intend to insulate the bottom of the camper and figured the paint would be simpler. It's cheaper for sure. The camper also has recesses under it like the riser. But only 1' deep. FWC put skid strips on the bottom that form this. I also bought some 3/4" rigid foam and will insulate under the camper floor as well. Just like the riser. That will be almost 3" of foam under the floor. Before cold weather next fall I'm thinking of also wrapping similar foam around the exterior of the plywood base.
As far as tuning the fit I have found some firm poly foam I intend to use to replace the big rubber baby buggy bumpers on the front of the camper base. I should be able to get it at least an inch closer to the rear of the truck cab that way. Too much gap as it is.
Nice work... Are those bumpers easy to come by or is it just a s easy to saw off an inch off the front of them. (was thinking of doing that too). I also like the trailer idea. I have a dirt/gravel driveway and getting it moved around outside is a pain. It would be nice to have it on a trailer easier to move into the garage and once in, moved around. My present platform is fine but only on cement and even then the wheels struggle to move easily. I have to get on Craigs list for a beat up trailer and be sure it is narrow enough for the jacks.
Keep posting photos...I really enjoy seeing the progress you make and your ideas help keep me fine tuning too.
Keep posting photos...I really enjoy seeing the progress you make and your ideas help keep me fine tuning too.
PaulT
Need gumbo
My guess is that those bumpers are sized assuming you have the Toyota deck rails tie down cleat system. If you don't have deck rails, the bumpers could thinner by the size of the deck rails (maybe plus tie down cleat.) Keeping multiple bumper thicknesses expands inventory. This is just a SWAG though. My Tundra has the deck rails and there is lost storage between camper front and truck bed. If there were access, shovels, rope, tools, fishing/camping gear etc could fit there. Probably, just as well. I carry too much stuff anyway.Squatch said:
Paul
nikonron
Senior Member
I have a set of bumpers if someone gets to needing replacements. Took mine off, put 1/4" thick rubber at the bottom, nothing rubs and sits nice and tight toward the cab. Ron
Squatch
Senior Member
A quick shot of the platform in the Tundra. The eyebolts are for securing the camper.
The underside of the camper was due for some cleaning and paint. It was dirty and weathered.
I washed it off and gave all the wood a quick sanding with a palm sander and some 120 grit. Masked then the camper got the same porch paint the platform got.
2 coats later. I brushed the inside corners and anything else that needed a brush. The bulk was rolled with a 6" mini roller.
Then 3/4" of rigid foam between the runners.
Milk crates support the camper well. Nice fit.
The underside of the camper was due for some cleaning and paint. It was dirty and weathered.
I washed it off and gave all the wood a quick sanding with a palm sander and some 120 grit. Masked then the camper got the same porch paint the platform got.
2 coats later. I brushed the inside corners and anything else that needed a brush. The bulk was rolled with a 6" mini roller.
Then 3/4" of rigid foam between the runners.
Milk crates support the camper well. Nice fit.
Squatch
Senior Member
Bigger than I need bumper on the front of the camper. These space it off the front wall a bit too far for my truck. I think these are just generic truck/loading dock bumpers.
I'm going to try making the new ones from this packing foam. It's not like I back the truck under the camper with any force. The turnbuckles hold it in place once fastened. So I just need a small spacer with a little bit of cush,
Old bumpers removed. I'll post more pics once I make the new ones.
I'm going to try making the new ones from this packing foam. It's not like I back the truck under the camper with any force. The turnbuckles hold it in place once fastened. So I just need a small spacer with a little bit of cush,
Old bumpers removed. I'll post more pics once I make the new ones.
Nice job Squatch... ship shape. Was wondering, as I like your idea of off season camper on trailer. I am looking round for a heap I can make steady as it would be just around the property ...much easier to put away for winter.
Have you thought of cutting the back rails behind the wheels off (wheels to ramp) so that the camper would sit on the base? Not sure from photos but that would be a great height.
Have you thought of cutting the back rails behind the wheels off (wheels to ramp) so that the camper would sit on the base? Not sure from photos but that would be a great height.
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