Rice Build thread!

Instead of just cutting the rails I've thought of widening them. The inside needs to be where the outside is now, From the fenders back. It really wouldn't be a big job. But for now I'll use it as is. Too many other irons in the fire.

The other thought is that puts the camper base closer to the ground. Closer to dew and morning condensation. This camper is often parked over dirt or gravel.

I'll also probably use the trailer for hauling some stuff. So stock is fine for now. In a week or so the Camper will be back on the truck for a good while I hope.

If you are looking keep used boat trailers in mind. Easy to mod and often cheap used.
 
My solar suitcase got a good test yesterday!

The Camper has been in the garage for over a week with no sun on the roof panel.

Per the Trimetric I have a slight 1/10 amp parasitic draw when the main switch is on. I was thinking this was the fridge plugged in but powered off. But I checked and it wasn't plugged in. So I'm thinking this is just the propane alarm panel and such. Bottom line is that the battery had a bit of a drain on it and needed to be charged up.

The roof panel gets no sun at all inside. I remembered my portable 120 watt panel which really hasn't even been put to the test yet. I plugged in the extension cable and it was long enough to reach to the driveway. I set up the panel and plugged it in. At 9am I had 6.6 amps of charging instantly from the 120 watt panels(2x60). We left the house for a while so I'm not sure how long it took to charge. But it wasn't more than a couple of hours. When we got home all was at 100%. I'm pleased with the performance.

I want to pick up another Bogart SC2030 solar charger controller and mount it in a small box. With wiring pig tails and Anderson connectors. That way I can plug the portable into the SC2030 and then use the combo as a portable battery charger for my boat or anything else around here that needs to have the battery bumped up every now and then.
 
Back where it belongs. The lower platform and smaller bumpers improved the fit in the truck a lot!




Much tighter to the truck.




The grey paint cleans up the look a good bit as well. No more raw lumber exposed.




And a good shot of the steps with traction tape and reflective tape.
 
Went and got beer for the fridge. Installed the beer and fired up the fridge for the season. Fridge is on MAX to cool it down so I plugged in the extra suitcase panels. Full charge +4.3 amp charge while chilling down with fridge drawing hard! The main panel is shaded a little by trees right now. But with all the panels no need to plug the fridge into AC power to cool the fridge.

Let the wandering season begin!
 
That is good to hear! I am wiring the fridge right now and wonder what fuse slot# is for the fridge (I have an Eagle)
 
I did the "DUH" thing... I just kept putting in a 15 amp fuse in each slot until the fridge started... somedays I just shake my head in shame. But thanks!
 
Squatch your rig looks fantastic. I was thinking of doing the same with the front bumpers...will wait to get a better measure when it goes on in a few weeks. How close to the front rail is the front of the camper now with the new foam? I had only an 1/8" over the side rails so I added another piece of 1/4" ply ...feel better with 3/8". These higher rails on the newer truck are a PITA. I'm short and getting stuff out of the truck bed from the side is a comedy.
 
I probably have 3/4" clearance up front. About 3/8" at the bed rail. Perfect!

I didn't run my fridge from the fuse box. I ran fresh 8 gauge wiring from a common + and - posts through a 15 amp breaker inline. All the factory wired stuff still runs through the fuse box. Though now power to the fuse box comes from the common posts as well. White wire/yellow terminal. Not off the separator terminal.

Any new stuff I've installed has it's own inline fusing.
 
squatch, I can't recall if you are monitoring your battery usage/charging in any way? If you want to measure all loads, they do have to go through a common connection at the shunt before going to battery -ve.
 
Vic I have a Trimetric. All loads are downstream of the shunt. All loads and charging is measured through the shunt. They don't have to be bolted to the shunt just located downstream. The battery cables were replaced and extended to the under bench compartment. I installed a marine common binding post for both + and -. FWC had the main for the fuse box mounted to the camper battery side of the Isolater. This was moved to the common posts instead. Only thing connected to the isolater now is the battery cables from each end.

I really need to draw up a wiring diagram. There is much more equipment in my setup but the wiring is actually simplified. But much easier to show than describe.

Suffice to say. I followed Bogarts instructions to the letter. And just added some of my own experience based on 30 years of doing low voltage wiring for a living.
 
I hear you on the wiring diagram. As you may recall, a month or two ago I was scratching my head about meter readings and Rando pointed out a few things I had missed. When I stick my head in the battery/electrial box today and look at the wires I am very glad I documented stuff as a I went along, and STILL missed stuff.
 
Just an update. I recently replaced both of my vent covers with the proper ones from fantastic fan. Works much better now and Much more light than the fogged up one was letting in.

Also I just got back from a 2,200 miles 5 night trip. I stayed in the camper the whole time in different locations. I honestly didn't even think about the new bed foam the whole time. And I slept well. Tells me that I must have gotten it right with the new foam.
 

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