Roof lift gas struts

I originally put in the 40lb Suspa struts. I used them several times and didn't think it was quite enough.

So then I installed the 100lb Suspa struts. Similar price and brackets as above.

They work amazing well. They roof lifts itself without much of any effort. I have 3 solar panels on the roof but they are all flexible panels that probably weigh less than 30 lbs all together.

There is a little extra pulling to put the roof down. But I start pulling down the far side and then the side by the door. The weight of the roof works with you and little effort.

I know there are several reports of danger using more than 40-60lbs, but it works great for me. I've never had it pop up on it's own. It takes just a little push from the door side and up it goes. No effort at all.
 
Casa Escarlata Robles Too said:
I went back to the original thread by the saints. " roof lifter helper thingies".



The struts that I and others ordered are #C16-15952 40# cost is $30 still. The bracket I used is #P67-00203, which is an angled one in coated black. #P67-00205 is a flat bracket also in black. They cost $3 apiece.

So my memory didn't fail me , total cost would be 4 struts $120 ,8 brackets $24 $144 out the door!

Don't know where or why you were directed to the $100 struts. I think the struts you asked about have a different attachment end style. Or maybe higher due to total length. Mine are 36" opened.

There are other members who also have this # strut plus I think it was the one used from the factory FWC/ACT.
Hope this helps.

PM me if you want more info.
Frank
Hawks use 36" and Eagles use 40"... that's the 'rub' ... 40" are $100. Can't use 36" which are $30.
 
Here is what is in the FWC install PDF
 

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A great discussion here. A number of you have mentioned using 60#, 80#, or as much as 100# struts to address your lifting needs. In my case I chose the 60# Suspa and have successfully used a pair of them (inside, front-only) for my Grandby's ~12-ft long roof. From my read of these posts It's been suggested that FWC wouldn't recommend using anything more than 40# in any of its roof applications. Can anyone point me to the rationale or basis behind this? Is there any reason to believe that my 60#ers are overkill? Or possibly even a danger to occupants? Thanks,
Rico
 
Even with my Kayak on top the 40# struts are enough but I'm still a youngster. My guess is FWC is being very conservative and cya just in case.
 
Above a certain weight, it's actually harder to pull the roof down than it is to put it up.
With my roof weight this is probably closest to 80lbs.
Mine springs up to action easily with just a tiny push. Coming down is a little tougher, but then I have gravity working with me instead of against me. I like it this way, but it's not for everyone.
 
buckland said:
Here is what is in the FWC install PDF
I guess I am being hardheaded here. I just don't understand why you would have to go with a 40" strut with a standard roof.
Is that a miss print and they mean the taller liner?

Doesn't matter to me though. My Bobcat which is similar to the Eagle only 5" or so wider works great with the 36" struts.

The bottom line It's one of the best mods I have done to my camper.
Frank
 
RicoV said:
A great discussion here. A number of you have mentioned using 60#, 80#, or as much as 100# struts to address your lifting needs. In my case I chose the 60# Suspa and have successfully used a pair of them (inside, front-only) for my Grandby's ~12-ft long roof. From my read of these posts It's been suggested that FWC wouldn't recommend using anything more than 40# in any of its roof applications. Can anyone point me to the rationale or basis behind this? Is there any reason to believe that my 60#ers are overkill? Or possibly even a danger to occupants? Thanks,
Ricso
Don't forget that FWC is probably talking about their current-style install of four exterior struts, where many here using the higher number ones are using two internal struts. As an example, I have two 20# on the rear and two 30# on the front, whic might produce similar forces to two 50# internal ones.

Also, the mounting of the external ones is into the side of the frame members, while the internal ones appear to be into the underside of the roof. Side-mounts may be weaker, ie the recent recall on the exterior mounted strut mounts.
 
Thanks Frank
just received an email from Brenda as I had asked if I could use 36" or if I could buy a kit ( I live 3000 miles from the factory)
So NO to both.
Looks like I am dashed on the rocks of opportunity.


Hi,
No not enough travel to raise the roof.
Brenda

Brenda
That indeed is a sad note.
Is there the possibility/plans that it might be available?
Is it possible to install the 36" instead of the 40" on an Eagle?
 
buckland said:
Thanks Frank
just received an email from Brenda as I had asked if I could use 36" or if I could buy a kit ( I live 3000 miles from the factory)
So NO to both.
Looks like I am dashed on the rocks of opportunity.


Hi,
No not enough travel to raise the roof.
Brenda

Brenda
That indeed is a sad note.
Is there the possibility/plans that it might be available?
Is it possible to install the 36" instead of the 40" on an Eagle?
What is special about your roof? Do you have the taller liner?

Otherwise I still don't understand the "why you can't" answer.

Maybe you should talk to the ski3pins about lifters,as he has the taller liner and find out what he used.

Aside from all that the struts are a great back saver.
Frank
 
It is all about the distance between where you mount the brackets. I've installed/helped install 36 inch struts on 6 campers. I think 36 inchers will work with the usual disclaimer - you are reading this on the internet. I expect the preinstalled mounts that FWC is now using and repairing are set up for 40 inch struts. Take a look at all the photos on here about mounting. Usually you figure where you want the brackets toward the outside edges of the roof. The lower brackets are placed to fit the length of the strut.

If you are curious, raise your roof and put a yard stick up there and see how you will think it will work.
 
ski3pin said:
It is all about the distance between where you mount the brackets. I've installed/helped install 36 inch struts on 6 campers. I think 36 inchers will work with the usual disclaimer - you are reading this on the internet. I expect the preinstalled mounts that FWC is now using and repairing are set up for 40 inch struts. Take a look at all the photos on here about mounting. Usually you figure where you want the brackets toward the outside edges of the roof. The lower brackets are placed to fit the length of the strut.

If you are curious, raise your roof and put a yard stick up there and see how you will think it will work.
Thank you ski for maybe adding some realism to this thread.
As I have said I am just enough hardheaded to keep on asking questions as to why.I usually don't take "just because " for the correct answer.

This just isn't for Mr. Buckland but for all who seek the knowledge as what will work.


Frank
 
I'm interested in doing some MATH.

How much does your roof go UP, from it's closed position?

What is the "usable" width of your roof, side to side?
By usable, I mean the farthest out one of the angle brackets for mounting the gas shock could be mounted on the roof.
 
ski3pin said:
...I expect the preinstalled mounts that FWC is now using and repairing are set up for 40 inch struts.
This makes sense to me to explain the answer from FWC.

If not using preinstalled mounts, a shorter strut would work fine in my opinion. We have the taller vinyl and our roof struts are the 36" ones, 40 lb. They work well.
 
I appreciate the input and advice from all....it is indeed a topic which effects many would be DYI (which is most FWC folk) installers of struts.
It makes sense to me as well, that owners of older model FWC who don't have pre-installed mounts or rivnuts should be able to adjust where they mount the hardware so that the strut will fully extend. On the other hand I do not want to be dissatisfied with the lift assist after installing the shorter strut either.
The distance when opened is 29 ½ " vertically. It is indeed 40" from the clamp hook on the roof (besides which one mounts the top bracket) to the center of the wall above the rear door. (usable horizontal space = 60" above both door and roof edge horizontally).

Hey Frank, I'm Rob and Buckland is my town's name! :) But I kinda like the Mr. Buckland...sounds like I'm the mayor!
 
OK, let's try this idea....

img_103055_0_d519edbd2074d3059ca0a5451f513981.jpg


From the Suspa, Series 16 Data Sheet (click on the web link to see in detail)

img_103055_2_a15aea2b3fe44262d08f1aaad1b287dc.jpg

And,

img_103055_4_845ebc2953693876c37bdb8416f51918.jpg

So, when you measured the roof height at 29 ½ " vertically, and the extended shock can raise the roof to 29.72", it looks like it would work for the dimensions needed (roof height) and available (compressed and extended gas shock, C16-15952).

My only concern is with higher force gas shocks, what part of the camper are the brackets mounted into?
Can that part of the camper handle the higher force?
The answer from other WTW forum members appears to be it is OK.

If you already have the gas shock mounts installed by FWC, then you'll need to use the aftermarket ones, placing them as they best fit.
 
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