roof lifting helper shocks thingys

Seems like craig333 posted somewhere that his struts got a little softer, easier to move, after a while, but I can't find that post now. Anyone else find that their similar struts were stiffer at first and got "better"?



Nope, not any softer on mine.

According to my camping log, about 145 nights, so far, and maybe 50% of the time multiple ups & downs in a day, so no real accurate telling of how many cycles the roof gas shocks have done. My solar panel is all the way forward on the roof, about 24 lbs, I think. Rear almost goes up by itself, the front takes just a little pushing. I have the same, Suspa, 40 lb'ers, two in front, two in rear, just like yours.
 
Nope, not any softer on mine.

My solar panel is all the way forward on the roof, about 24 lbs, I think. Rear almost goes up by itself, the front takes just a little pushing. I have the same, Suspa, 40 lb'ers, two in front, two in rear, just like yours.

How about lowering? Do you have to pull down much?
 
How about lowering? Do you have to pull down much?

Mark I have had mine on for some time and really like them.Especially when I carry the canoe.With weight the top comes down pretty much by it's self,otherwise I have to pull down the front.It's just a steady downward pull that is needed. I have started to use the fantastic fan to make sure the front in particular is all pulled in.
These are one of the best mods you can do.
Frank
 
How about lowering? Do you have to pull down much?



No pull down at all in the front. Just make sure the interior windows are correctly positioned (closed) and the bungie is attached, start the push/pull handle and it comes down easily (that solar panel and gravity does all the work). As long as I've got the door open, the soft sides in the front have never hung out where I had to lift and push them in from the outside. 50 lb'ers might be just about right, however, those are special order, custom made and cost an arm and a leg from Suspa.

For the rear, it needs a little downward pull, to get started, but, not much. I usually stop about half way down and pull in the back corners of the soft sides (from the inside), so, I don't have to mess from the outside with any soft side corners in the back hanging out. Learned about having fingers not on the little pull handle on the lift panel once... and got pinched a bit, that hasn't happened again.
 
I remember way back at the beginning of this thread someone concerned about the elements damaging the struts when mounted on the outside.I have noticed that mine have started to get small rust blisters.This I feel is mainly due to where I live,on the coast.The rust is only on the tube not the piston.
Today I removed all four struts,sanded down the rust spots and primed with a rust inhibited spray.After drying I used plastic electrical tape and applied it in a spiral method down the tube.
I am hoping this will give some protection to the struts.If the problem continues I will just remove them during the long winter storage.
Frank
 
The lower mounting brackets for my rear struts have began the pull out. I can turn the screws freely as they have stripped the metal (?) they were screwed into. Anyone else have this problem and/or solution?

There seems to be a strong force pulling them away from the camper as the rear roof is raised, which is then relieved after the front attains full height. The shape of the offset brackets enhances the force.
 
The lower mounting brackets for my rear struts have began the pull out. I can turn the screws freely as they have stripped the metal (?) they were screwed into. Anyone else have this problem and/or solution?

There seems to be a strong force pulling them away from the camper as the rear roof is raised, which is then relieved after the front attains full height. The shape of the offset brackets enhances the force.

I haven't had this problem,but I didn't use the off set brackets.Don't know if they are required on some models.
The only problem I have had is the blister corrosion on the tubes.See my above post for what I did.
Frank
 
I spent an hour today trying to solve my problem and it seems finding a thick part of the frame to drill a pilot and screw into on the back of the camper is rather difficult.

I installed my struts as an upside down V in the rear, so was not able to use the door frame to screw into. The lights above the door were the reason for that.
 
Wow...
Just spent a couple hours trying to digest this whole thread.
There aren't a whole lot of interior builds. I know Hadley has posted pictures on ExpoPortal with some quick release attachments for his interior roof lifter shock things. This is the way I plan to go with my Finch.
For those of you who did put the shocks inside was there a problem with the slide out bed portion coming into contact with the mounting plate?
What size is best for the interior of a Finch/Eagle?
What # rating is best for the above camper since only two shocks will be used instead of four? I have the factory Yakima rails, fantastic fan, and plan on (moveable) solar in the future.
How difficult is it to measure the placement for mounting the interior. When I had a tonneau it had these type of shocks and moveable mounting plates where the shocks connected to the bed rails. It was a PITA to get it all lined up just right. Since this will be quasi permanent I'd rather not screw it up.

Great thread with tons of info.
 
ETAV8R said:
Anyone?
Click to expand...
My Grandby has 80# struts and my roof has the same configuration plus the solar panel. 80# was the largest strut they were using at the time. I've seen pictures with 60# struts from factory installs on the smaller campers. The bottom strut bracket is actually over the end of the slide when it is out. You should call Terry at FWC and get pictures of an installation and maybe dimensions. I installed the blocks for the lift assist crank and he sent pictures of a installation so I could place them properly.
 
For those who do the interior installations I see the mounting attachments on metal plates( aluminum/steel). Where is everyone getting these plates?
 
Another question pertaining to the internal mounting of RLHST (roof lifting helper shocks thingys) is would the standard ball type mounting plate be able to be affixed to the portion of the bed which extends out? Meaning if the bases were fixed with the ball mounts and the top was a removable type then they could be hooked onto the bed section such as those who have them stowed under the small aft cabinets.

Just something that came to mind the other day.
 
Do the 40 lb Suspa gas springs fit 10 mm balls for the brackets from Maxum hardware?
 
Went through this entire thread and may have missed it. I don't remember where I saw it but someone, Hadley?, used some small clips under the storage cubbies to place the lifting struts when not in use.
Anyone remember or have a link for these clips?
 
That was me bought them back in Feb and the cab is still holding the pole. Got them at Duckworks http://www.duckworksbbs.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SD%2D4913xx&CartID=0

ORDERED ITEMS:
SD-491353 - 1-1/2 inch Rubber Pole Storage Clips
Qty: 2 at $1.89 ................................................ $3.78


CHARGES:
Total: $3.78
Choose Correct Region for Shipping/Handling: USA $5.50
Sales Tax: $0.00
Grand Total: ................................................... $9.28

Is this the photo you are referring to:
[sharedmedia=core:attachments:15964]
 
I think the GC speaker stand is the only way to go. I bought a cheap 7.2 volt drill that has a small ac adapter and I can put up the roof in seconds. If I don't have hookups I just charge the drill with my stock Ram AC outlet.
 
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