craig333
Riley's Human
If I'd looked at the pictures first I'd have noticed everyone has them rod down.
roof lifting helper shocks thingys
- Thread starter The Saints
- Start date
leadsled9
Contributors
Okay, started my installation today. Two questions. Leave some tension on the struts in the up position?
Instructions say to install rod side down. Is that what ya all did?
I have the factory install by FWC. When the roof is in the up position....there is no tension on the shocks. This allows them to be removed and replaced easily.
Yes, the rods should be mounted down.
Instructions say to install rod side down. Is that what ya all did?
I have the factory install by FWC. When the roof is in the up position....there is no tension on the shocks. This allows them to be removed and replaced easily.
Yes, the rods should be mounted down.
craig333
Riley's Human
Project complete. Total time approx 2 hours. Now that I've done it I could cut that time in half. Cost=approx $100
Practically pops up on its own now. The front is a bit difficult to lower now but that should be fixed as soon as I go to the next project:solar.
Practically pops up on its own now. The front is a bit difficult to lower now but that should be fixed as soon as I go to the next project:solar.
K7MDL
Senior Member
Learned today that Strut-Your-Stuff-Here, the ebay supplier of the Columbia brand gas springs in Yakima, WA, also carries offset mounting brackets, but has not listed them.
I just received my 40# struts and also now have my offset brackets from Maxum Hardware. Ready to install soon on my Grandby. I have the full length tracks, 2 load bars, and a factory 55W solar panel up top, no fan (yet).
I just received my 40# struts and also now have my offset brackets from Maxum Hardware. Ready to install soon on my Grandby. I have the full length tracks, 2 load bars, and a factory 55W solar panel up top, no fan (yet).
craig333
Riley's Human
Actually they do list them in their store, just hard to find. Don't do like I do and do have a brain fart. I ordered four brackets for my four struts. Glad I wasn't in a hurry
K7MDL
Senior Member
Ordered only 4 brackets for 4 struts: I did the same thing. So ordered up a second set of 4 and in total paid $24 in shipping for $8 worth of parts as a result. If I had known I could get them from the strut seller in Yakima, would have come in the same package as the struts, or at least come from only 100 miles away saving big shipping $$.
Oh well. Won't get to install them until next week earliest. Pouring rain/sleet/snow/hail/sun/thunder here now, and heading out camping/motorcycle riding this weekend in eastern WA.
Oh well. Won't get to install them until next week earliest. Pouring rain/sleet/snow/hail/sun/thunder here now, and heading out camping/motorcycle riding this weekend in eastern WA.
Here are some pictures....I didn`t consider the storm windows when I was brainstorming about where to attach the struts. Oh well, they still work. I cut a road bike tube and zip tied it on the strut to keep debris out when I`m driving. I didn`t have black zip ties and had to use gray. By the way, the struts work well! It`s a joke how easily the roof lifts and closes!
craig333
Riley's Human
Here are some pictures....I didn`t consider the storm windows when I was brainstorming about where to attach the struts. Oh well, they still work. I cut a road bike tube and zip tied it on the strut to keep debris out when I`m driving. I didn`t have black zip ties and had to use gray. By the way, the struts work well! It`s a joke how easily the roof lifts and closes!
Glad to hear it works well. I'm pretty sure you aren't the first to put them on the sides though.
Glad to hear it works well. I'm pretty sure you aren't the first to put them on the sides though.
MakersTeleMark
Advanced Member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2010
- Messages
- 94
I like the boot idea. I think mounting on the side makes sense because it covers a larger area of the top. I'm still waiting for brackets (I have the struts), and am still on the fence on the location of mounting.
Gormley Green
Contributors
The side mounting looks really cool, nice work! Would love to see more pics pf that if anyone else has done it. I'd have trouble with the lower front brackets due to my led running light on my new Hawk.
Thanks for the idea! Lots of people seem to have trouble lowering an unloaded roof (the front, anyways) with the struts. Does the side location change that at all?
Thanks for the idea! Lots of people seem to have trouble lowering an unloaded roof (the front, anyways) with the struts. Does the side location change that at all?
chnlisle
Post Master
I'm interested in knowing how easy or difficult it is to lower the top evenly on both sides with the side mounts.
Mark W. Ingalls
Contributors
I like the boot idea. I think mounting on the side makes sense because it covers a larger area of the top. I'm still waiting for brackets (I have the struts), and am still on the fence on the location of mounting.
X2. I would consider a weep hole at the bottom of the boot to let trapped moisture escape, though...
X2. I would consider a weep hole at the bottom of the boot to let trapped moisture escape, though...
The boot is 8" long and only covers the shaft when in the down position. The shaft when exposed is 15" long, I believe. I didn`t want the boot to be that long because it bunched up too much in the down position so, when extended it should release whatever water if any gets trapped.
With nothing on the roof I had to have someone hold the front down because it wanted to raise when I lowered the back. If I have weight evenly distributed on the roof, there is no problem raising and lowering the roof evenly. If not, one side will sag due to my Skybox being on the driver side but, with my road bike and mountain bike on the passenger side, it evens it out perfectly! Let me tell you, raising and lowering the roof is simple!
The reason I put the struts on the sides is because they wouldn`t fit in between the buckles on the front.I hope this helps!
With nothing on the roof I had to have someone hold the front down because it wanted to raise when I lowered the back. If I have weight evenly distributed on the roof, there is no problem raising and lowering the roof evenly. If not, one side will sag due to my Skybox being on the driver side but, with my road bike and mountain bike on the passenger side, it evens it out perfectly! Let me tell you, raising and lowering the roof is simple!
The reason I put the struts on the sides is because they wouldn`t fit in between the buckles on the front.I hope this helps!
As you use the camper the lifters will lower easier.It's the front that tends to not stay down.If I need to, I have a bunggie from the front push bar, than lower the roof, than hook the bunggie to the battery area.Or just have the wife clip the front latches.These lifters are a back saver.
Frank
Frank
MakersTeleMark
Advanced Member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2010
- Messages
- 94
Finally did my camper roof lifty helper thingie today. I went with the side mount. Had a bear of a time getting it down but came up with a clever idea to address it.
One cam strap (like a ratchet strap) does the trick. Hook one hook over the nipple thingie on top, the other under the wheel well or anywhere convenient. Pull down, fix latch. Rinse, repeat.
Takes about a minute. I'm wondering if they will get softer over time (I suppose they will just by design). I also feel being more spread out, they do offer greater lifting power.
I can post some pics (when it stops nuking snow), but it looks just like you would think it does. I considered the boot, but I realized that because I mounted them just shy of full extension, there is only an inch of piston showing when collapsed, so the only time they will see significant exposure is when the roof is up, and I didn't feel a need to worry about that.
I will say the offset brackets are key for some nice clearance.
One cam strap (like a ratchet strap) does the trick. Hook one hook over the nipple thingie on top, the other under the wheel well or anywhere convenient. Pull down, fix latch. Rinse, repeat.
Takes about a minute. I'm wondering if they will get softer over time (I suppose they will just by design). I also feel being more spread out, they do offer greater lifting power.
I can post some pics (when it stops nuking snow), but it looks just like you would think it does. I considered the boot, but I realized that because I mounted them just shy of full extension, there is only an inch of piston showing when collapsed, so the only time they will see significant exposure is when the roof is up, and I didn't feel a need to worry about that.
I will say the offset brackets are key for some nice clearance.
K7MDL
Senior Member
I installed my gas struts last Saturday dodging occasional light rain showers. Since I have a side awning, side mounting the struts is a non-starter.
I thought I would try mounting the offset brackets above the back door top frame to get them up a bit higher, and to avoid a small fit issue. The brackets are just a bit larger than the channel the frame screws sit in. Turns out there is nothing but air behind the siding immediately above the door frame, and the rear floodlight power wire lays inside on the frame member the door frame is screwed to. I just barely nicked it. One 3/32 hole now filled with sealant.
I cut and drilled 2 small 3/16" thick aluminum strips as spacers to sit in the door frame channel to allow the offset bracket to fit properly and not have to modify the frame. I used SS #10x3/4: sheet metal screws. I was able to reuse a couple holes, but most were new.
I thought I would try mounting the offset brackets above the back door top frame to get them up a bit higher, and to avoid a small fit issue. The brackets are just a bit larger than the channel the frame screws sit in. Turns out there is nothing but air behind the siding immediately above the door frame, and the rear floodlight power wire lays inside on the frame member the door frame is screwed to. I just barely nicked it. One 3/32 hole now filled with sealant.
I cut and drilled 2 small 3/16" thick aluminum strips as spacers to sit in the door frame channel to allow the offset bracket to fit properly and not have to modify the frame. I used SS #10x3/4: sheet metal screws. I was able to reuse a couple holes, but most were new.
Mike you will really like the lifters.They are one of the best things I did to modify my camper.Looks like you did a good job.I personally don't see the advantage to the side lifters.Plus they interfere with the out side flaps if you have them.IMO
Frank
Frank
dorocks
Senior Member
After reading all the posts and looking at my camper I noticed that my Hawk has those led light bars over the rear door and in front. It seems to me that the light bars would be right in the way of the place where the brackets would mount. I did not see any pictures of lifters installed on a unit with the light bars.
Secondly some have said they only have the FWC installed lifts in the front. How does this help you when you are lifting the back?
On a similar post someone said they were making a lift crank setup and that it pushed the whole roof up at the same time. Does one do that by pushing on the front wood push area or the back?
Keith
La Mesa CA
Secondly some have said they only have the FWC installed lifts in the front. How does this help you when you are lifting the back?
On a similar post someone said they were making a lift crank setup and that it pushed the whole roof up at the same time. Does one do that by pushing on the front wood push area or the back?
Keith
La Mesa CA
After reading all the posts and looking at my camper I noticed that my Hawk has those led light bars over the rear door and in front. It seems to me that the light bars would be right in the way of the place where the brackets would mount. I did not see any pictures of lifters installed on a unit with the light bars.
Secondly some have said they only have the FWC installed lifts in the front. How does this help you when you are lifting the back?
On a similar post someone said they were making a lift crank setup and that it pushed the whole roof up at the same time. Does one do that by pushing on the front wood push area or the back?
Keith
La Mesa CA
Keith.If you can only place the lifters on the front than go for it as its easier to lift the back even with a load than it is to lift the front.I have a bobcat,see my posts back further in this thread of my installation.It is so easy to install them.Also see my thread about "roof lifter lever" its a cool devise to lift and easy to make.One thing you could do to install the lifters without moving the led light bars is to reverse the angle.Mount the bottom to the outside and the top to the center.I don't see why it would change the operation.You might give Marty a call at ATC and ask.
Hope this helps.If you have any questions just PM me.
Frank
Secondly some have said they only have the FWC installed lifts in the front. How does this help you when you are lifting the back?
On a similar post someone said they were making a lift crank setup and that it pushed the whole roof up at the same time. Does one do that by pushing on the front wood push area or the back?
Keith
La Mesa CA
Keith.If you can only place the lifters on the front than go for it as its easier to lift the back even with a load than it is to lift the front.I have a bobcat,see my posts back further in this thread of my installation.It is so easy to install them.Also see my thread about "roof lifter lever" its a cool devise to lift and easy to make.One thing you could do to install the lifters without moving the led light bars is to reverse the angle.Mount the bottom to the outside and the top to the center.I don't see why it would change the operation.You might give Marty a call at ATC and ask.
Hope this helps.If you have any questions just PM me.
Frank
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