Rusty Brackets

RobNE

Advanced Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2009
Messages
56
Hey All,
I looked through a number of topics talking about these dammed rusty brackets... the must be the sacrificial anode of the entire camper. I think my camper looks decent, but I always notice those brackets!!!

So i figured I would take them off and hit them with a wire wheel and then prime/paint. That alone seems like its going to take days of work to get them cleaned up. In addition, I broke off 5 of the lag screw heads. :mad:

Fisherman, I saw in one of your posts that you had broken off a few. How did you fix them? A small easy-out or the like?

What do most people do? Should I take them to a powerder coating shop and Will they have the means to clean them first (acid bath?) before powder coating?

Rob

ps: this bracket was probably one of the better looking ones...
 

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Living on the beach that has been a constant problem for me and they really become an eyesore. I took mine off before they got too bad and had them soda blasted and coated with a dense marine anti-rust paint, it's been about a year and they look great, a little rust seeps out from inside the folds where they weren't able to paint but they still look pretty dang perfect. I thought of getting them galvanized but i would have had to drive a good distance and it wasn't cheap. Good luck whatever you do.
 
I hate the way by rusty brackets look to. :( I don't know any welders but I would be willing to pay for a shiny new set made out of stainless steel.
 
I repainted mine and it only lasted a year. Im thinking replacing brackets with aluminum ones. But I do not know if they will be strong enough. anyone use aluminum for the brackets.
 
Aluminum... thats a good idea. I can't believe it wouldn't be strong enough. I don't use them anyways, I have the scary cable jacks :eek:, but am considering keeping the brackets on.


Rob
 
We have looked for many years for better painted jacks & jack brackets.

The camper jack manufacturer just doesn't get the big picture after all these years.

We have pushed & shoved, but had little positive results to get jack brackets that won't rust so quickly when around a wet or salty (beach) climate.

The jack manfacturer did switch to a "2 piece" jack bracket a couple of years ago.

They did this in hopes to be able to get a better powder coating on the jack brackets.

I didn't see any big improvement between one or the other.

Gary Morrissey (Our Canadian Dealer) was a professional boat builder in Canada for around 30 years. He had the same complaint of rusty jack brackets on campers he had there (rain forest / ocean climate).

He had someone make him a set of stainless steel jack brackets for his personal camper. They looked great, but were darn expensive.

We have since been ordering in custom aluminum jack brackets to install on all of his new camper orders.

The cost for 4 of the aluminum jack brackets is $ 200.00.

We can sell the custom aluminum jack brackets to anyone that might want them.

BUT, it is important to note that new new jack brackets were are using these days are DIFFERENT that the older jack brackets.

The new jack brackets are 2 pieces.

The new jack brackets are also a different size and have a different hole pattern, so it won't be just a "plug & plug" installation if you are putting newer jack brackets on an older FWC.

The old jack brackets had approx. 6 bolts on each side of the jack brackets.

The new jack brackets (as of a few years ago) have only 4 bolt holes on each bracket.

I think the older jack brackets were approx. 1' inch longer than the new jack brackets these days.

Hope this helps.

Just a little food for thought.



.


.
 

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A few years ago a customer in the marine hardware industry pointed us in the right direction for a much better bolt to use attaching the jack brackets to the camper.

When we order in a set of camper jacks and jack brackets for a new camper these days, we throw the bolts away (recycle them) that come with the jacks from the manufacturer.

We use the same sized / same style bolts these days, but more expensive with a special coating (stronger against breaking / less chance of rust).

Tips for removing a broken jack bracket bolt ...

The shop guys would remove the camper jacks.

Remove the jack brackets.

Use a small dremel to knotch the tip of the broken jack bracket bolt.

(see attached pictures)

They would use a flat head screwdriver to remove the bolt from that point.

Simple process, as long as you have access to a dremel.

Hope this helps.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

. . . I saw in one of your posts that you had broken off a few bolt heads. How did you fix them? . . .
 

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I've had good luck with a product called Rust Bullet. Not cheap by any means, but it does as advertised.
 
I did the strip down and rust bullet method not to long ago..Not holding up to well(roof screws as well). it is extreme here and I prolly could have prepped better..also camper is on and off alot, so paint gets scraped off in process...That said, I'm excited about an alluminium upgrade!!!

Stan, it looks like the hole pattern to the camper on the new alluminium bracket is the same as older years..Is that correct?? If I drill a new hole pattern in my jack extensions I should plug right in...going to do the happy dance now!
 
A couple of thoughts and gripes about this.

With the rusty jack brackets it really does detract from the camper. Many of us don't care, but neighbors, and people not so well versed in the utility of our campers find that it makes our campers look a bit on the low class side. A few of my neighbors have already asked when I plan to replace that "old, rusty antique camper". In a local community, I once got a warning ticket from the cops stating that they do not allow old looking campers to park on the street. They assumed my camper was not used or "just sitting". There are a lot of those up here in the Northwest, but i have never seen one that is a FWC. Of course, I was just back from the woods and there was a lot dirt, mud and crap on the truck and camper and it did need a cleaning and such.

Now, I often don't really care what these folks think, but I don't want others to think I don't take care of my equipment or that I intentionally have an ugly vehicle in the neighborhood.

FWC must buy a lot of these jacks and brackets. I don't see why FWC could not demand a better product from their suppliers. If they can't supply it, get another vendor. Other forums seem to have complaints about these jack brackets as well. OR, source another version of the brackets (aluminum or SS or whatever) and tell the jack company to lower the price and don't include the crappy brackets (or screws). At least we can take the jacks off and put them inside where they won't rust as bad.

Sorry, Stan and the group, just had to vent.

Dave in seattle
 
Tomas,
I think those pics stan posted were for the new Rieco Titan 2 piece brackets (steel)? They're pricey too ($30/ea?) for something that will quickly rust, plus new hardware!

Seems like it would be pretty straightfoward to make a 2 piece aluminum bracket in the same manner? hmmm...

although, short term i'll just paint and remount my brackets.

Stan,
My bolts broke off further inside the aluminum channel, so the end isn't exposed. Any thoughts in that case? Thanks for weighing in on this topic.

Rob
 
Tomas,
I think those pics stan posted were for the new Rieco Titan 2 piece brackets (steel)? They're pricey too ($30/ea?) for something that will quickly rust, plus new hardware!

Seems like it would be pretty straightfoward to make a 2 piece aluminum bracket in the same manner? hmmm...

although, short term i'll just paint and remount my brackets.

Stan,
My bolts broke off further inside the aluminum channel, so the end isn't exposed. Any thoughts in that case? Thanks for weighing in on this topic.

Rob


I have a couple sheared off bolts as well on those brackets. I was thinking worst case may need to be drilling it out and getting a rivet nut tool. allows you to rivet a threaded sleeve back into the hole with the same thread and pitch as the bolt that was in there. may be easier at that point to just drill it out and tap in a slightly larger bolt diameter. but I would hate to slip with the drill and start making the situation worst. I wonder if you could tack weld a small stud on there and use vise grips to grab onto that and start turning it? too much heat? not enough grip?
 
I'm looking to make my own brackets out of stainless steel and mount jacks at the corners instead of using two tripod jacks. Would someone be willing to measure their brackets and send me the dimensions so i do not have to reinvent the wheel. It looks like all a person will need is a bit of flat bar and angle iron. drill a few holes and mount. Thanks in advance-
 

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