So you like to go on really rough roads...

[rubberlegs]

I would say yes. IF you have experience driving conditions like that.
Other considerations would be the type of Tacoma. Do you have a full double cab and longer bed, which would give you a longer wheel base? That could make it more challenging clearance wise.

It’s the shorter wheelbase, due to shorter cab. Has the locking rear diff, etc. in newer trucks. My wife has been a good spotter but we ain’t got ten years!

 

[JHanson]

I normally do not air down. When I do I rarely go below 35 psi (from 50 psi) and usually only go to 40 psi as I have found from experimenting that this is usually enough. It does help, but the philosophy of airing down radically came about in the days when the guiding idea for suspension was stiff everything, springs and shocks. These days much better and more supple springs & shocks are available. I firmly believe that the airing down mindset hasn't yet caught up with technology. An aired-down tire is much, much easier to cut and bruise. Add in wet and the situation gets a lot worse.

That said, were I heading over Saline Valley Rd. I would air down and take it slow. That road is too rough to drive fast in a heavy rig.

As to Steele Pass in a stock height vehicle, it's going to depend on the driver and the spotter. A poor combo of those can get an otherwise capable rig stuck and a good and experienced combo of those can easily get a stock truck up it. I would say that without a rear Traction Adding Diff of some sort that you probably shouldn't try it unless you have many years, a decade or more even, of driving similar vehicles in those conditions.

Sorry, but I disagree. There are numerous reasons to air down further than 35 psi that have nothing to do with stiff springs. Yes, airing down will certainly help the ride, but it also reduces stress on virtually every vehicle component, from shocks right up to that bolted-on camper. The longer footprint of an aired down tire increases both traction and flotation in soft substrate. And, finally, it reduces damage to the trail itself. Obviously the amount one reduces pressure must be matched to conditions—you don't go down to 20 psi in a garden of sharp rocks—but it is the single most effective way to enhance the vehicle's performance on trails.

 

[slash2]

It’s the shorter wheelbase, due to shorter cab. Has the locking rear diff, etc. in newer trucks. My wife has been a good spotter but we ain’t got ten years!

Your setup sounds similar to mine rubberlegs, other than I might be getting a bit more lift due to the heavier duty springs and airbags, otherwise you should be fine. Just don't forget to turn on your rear diff lock if you are going up the steps! The only time I slipped around and had to take a second shot at it was because I forgot to lock the rear diff. Almost too many buttons and traction options in those Tacos!
It really is a fun route, Enjoy!

 

[rubberlegs]

I've only used the rear diff once in our Taco, other than fooling around testing it, right here in the Slate Range (blue dot): https://caltopo.com/m/L021

It was pucker-factor steep (for me), and I had my wife walk to the top to check it out. Slipping sideways, either right or left, was not an option.

We also have the cruise mode stuff and have played with it a little on very rocky terrain which works ok. But haven't really absolutely needed it. It sure makes a lot of noise! But somehow it gets you through some nasty stuff relatively smoothly. There's another mode that I forget the name of, which we've never used other than testing.

JHanson, you said "you don't go down to 20 psi in a garden of sharp rocks", but I've read tires go over sharp stuff better at low pressures. Can you explain?

 

[ntsqd]

Jonathan, we've disagreed on that point in the past. I had no expectation of a change.

Rubberlegs, yeah that is a STEEP spot, isn't it? The analogy given to me is that a soft tire is like your hand cupping the points of the rocks. Hand your hand flat and see how much a grip you get on those rocks. The downside is that a low tire is much easier to cut than is a full tire. Judgement call there, how low is low enough?

 

[rubberlegs]

I recall a video of a test running very low pressure over a nail or sharp object. But I can't find it! Anyway it showed how a tire would kinda mold over the sharp object instead of get punctured. Let me know if any of y'all have seen it.

 

[JHanson]

I've only used the rear diff once in our Taco, other than fooling around testing it, right here in the Slate Range (blue dot): https://caltopo.com/m/L021

It was pucker-factor steep (for me), and I had my wife walk to the top to check it out. Slipping sideways, either right or left, was not an option.

We also have the cruise mode stuff and have played with it a little on very rocky terrain which works ok. But haven't really absolutely needed it. It sure makes a lot of noise! But somehow it gets you through some nasty stuff relatively smoothly. There's another mode that I forget the name of, which we've never used other than testing.

JHanson, you said "you don't go down to 20 psi in a garden of sharp rocks", but I've read tires go over sharp stuff better at low pressures. Can you explain?

Sure: It's a matter of balance. An aired-down tire exhibits better traction over rocks, as the tire literally molds itself around the rock, increasing the surface area in contact. However, the sidewall of any tire is less resistant to punctures or slices than the tread area, so the correct pressure is a judgement call. There's a perfect example of this balance here, if you have a couple of minutes to read it.

 

[JHanson]

Jonathan, we've disagreed on that point in the past. I had no expectation of a change.

Rubberlegs, yeah that is a STEEP spot, isn't it? The analogy given to me is that a soft tire is like your hand cupping the points of the rocks. Hand your hand flat and see how much a grip you get on those rocks. The downside is that a low tire is much easier to cut than is a full tire. Judgement call there, how low is low enough?

And I agree completely with your statement here!

 

[slash2]

I've only used the rear diff once in our Taco, other than fooling around testing it, right here in the Slate Range (blue dot): https://caltopo.com/m/L021

It was pucker-factor steep (for me), and I had my wife walk to the top to check it out. Slipping sideways, either right or left, was not an option.

Wow Rubberlegs, I finally found that trail on Google Earth. Looks like a whole lotta not much out there. I've explored some mines just south of where you came out on the Valley Wells side, and of course the other side on the road to Goler Wash, but nothing in between, what enticed you to risk life and rig to explore that very remote spot?

/2

 

[rubberlegs]

We were following the William Lewis Manly story. 1849-50. Look it up, fascinating!

 

[craig333]

Back when I was rock crawling I'd typically air down to 10 psi. Never cut a sidewall. However that's a very light vehicle. Still I think traction wins over the risk to the sidewall. Losing traction on a hill can be a bigger risk than cutting a tire.

The only time I punctured a sidewall was on my truck, tires fully inflated.

 

[slash2]

Seeings how this has turned into a thread about tire pressure and associated hazards rather than tips and tricks for securely stowing gear and attaching campers to beds, I may as well offer up my tire related history.

I've had sidewall rips/tears/ punctures on 4 separate tires and suffered multiple punctures through the tread.

The side walls were all at different trips, on the same set of "all terrain" Name Brand tires that should have been marked "All Terrain - As Long As It's Paved", and all in Death Valley and in Nevada on gravel roads at various speeds. The culprit, sharp rocks near the edge of the road hit while trying to avoid washboards. A couple I was going too fast, one I was going about 25 but lost focus on the road while admiring scenery, and one I don't remember why, but after that one I tossed that brand of tire and went with BFG K02's.

I'm on my 2nd set of K02's and never had a sidewall problem, even after hitting a rock hard enough to ding the rim and knock the front out of alignment. I was in low range 2nd gear, not going fast, but I was looking up the hill side at something interesting... try telling me you’ve never done anything similar.. Pinched the crap out of the side wall, but it held.

I run ‘em anywhere from 24 PSI to 60 PSI depending on the situation. Pulled numerous nails, screws and even an 8” 1/4” bolt that took 3 plug strips to seal out of them and they’ve kept on going.

My advice, don’t scrimp on tires, try not to be stupid or distracted too much, make sure you have all the patch kits, compressors, jacks and whatnot you’ll ever think you’ll need, and have confidence that common sense will help you most of the time. The rest of the time good luck and have fun.

/2

 

[craig333]

Threads do tend to get off topic now and then. I've had that scenery issue before. Lucky I've not driven off the side of a cliff.

 

[slash2]

Threads do tend to get off topic now and then.

Yeah, they often do, but that's half the fun!

As long as folks get to chat about things they are interested in and passionate about that's all that matters. I got most of my questions answered early on, the rest has been a bonus and fun. I'd never heard of William Lewis Manly, now I have his book on order and I'm looking forward to tracing his route as well, on a map at least!

The other articles and links have been well worth the viewing, none of which would have popped up on the radar without the topic taking some interesting turns.

And nothing like tire pressure and traction to stir debate, except maybe washboards and speed!

I hear the Inyo's got a dusting of snow today!

 

[slash2]

Speaking of airing down tires, I received Bob Wohlers Off-Road & Overland books yesterday. The section on airing down tires in the Raising Your 4WD Vehicle Off-Road & In-field Tire Repair book had a great write-up on the pros and cons of airing down in the backcountry. Traction and ride versus risks and loss of ground clearance.

But what really caught my eye was his graphic showing the footprint of a tire at different pressures. The footprint doesn’t get any wider with lower pressure, but it gets longer, almost twice as long from 60 PSI to 10 PSI.

 

[klahanie]

... but it gets longer, almost twice as long from 60 PSI to 10 PSI.

That's sounds like a whole lot of traction !

I regularly air down off highway for comfort, only very rarely for anything else. Don't really find a lack of traction, might be weight or might be the kinds of roads you guys are driving - which is why I've stayed out of this thread...

Anyhoo, I have to ask, slash. Did you pick your user name so you could use /2 for a sign off ?
It's pretty slick but I'm feeling not very fair for the rest of us

 

[slash2]

Anyhoo, I have to ask, slash. Did you pick your user name so you could use /2 for a sign off ?
It's pretty slick but I'm feeling not very fair for the rest of us

Ha ha, you're right, it does make it easy to sign off! But I picked it up from a cool old motorcycle that I own, a 1968 BMW R60/2. People call them slash 2's.

/2

 

[kimosawboy]

So all this talk of airing down is fine but do you all have compressors to air back up, or do you travel in packs?? My vehicle is stock with a compressor for my brakes, so no worries for me.

 

[slash2]

So all this talk of airing down is fine but do you all have compressors to air back up, or do you travel in packs?? My vehicle is stock with a compressor for my brakes, so no worries for me.

I have a Smittybilt 5.65 CFM compressor mounted in the engine compartment. It'll air all 4 tires back up in about 10 minutes. A whole pack might take a bit longer...

 

[trikebubble]

I installed a few low profile quick-release tie down point in various spots inside the camper. I use them to hold down my steps (on the main floor), my folding chairs and small portable firepit (under the table), and to hold down my porta-potti (inside the rear lower cabinet of my Hawk that I modified). We have those extendable spring-loaded Camco fridge dividers that keep everything in the fridge in place, and I also use the same Camco thingies to keep food in our pantry in place. I organized the other cupboards with small baskets and drawers to keep everything in place and not moving around when off-roading. I put a facecloth over the cutlery in the drawer to keep forks&knives from playing hide and stay hidden, and I throw a towel over the pots&pans and plates to keep them from moving around. I attached a Chef's knife pouch on the inside of the pantry flip-up door. It holds all our larger utensils, and when the lid is closed everything stays put.

I have replaced the stock turnbuckles with the stronger ones people here seem to recommend (though in all the off-roading we did prior to this, I never broke a stock turnbuckle). Adding a jam nut ot the turnbuckle will keep it from ever loosening off. I do also have a Hitchgate mounted to my receiver, with a 35" spare and other stuff on it. I think of it also a fail-safe, in the event the turnbuckles give out, it would prevent the camper from sliding off the back of the truck.

I removed my rear seat and built storage compartments for all tools, other pantry stuff that won't fit in the camper, recovery gear, a padded drawer for my truck-gun, along with a platform for our dogs. Everything stays secured in it's spot, and nothing is free to fall about when off-roading.

We like to go camping and exploring in places where other people are not, so sometimes that forces us to step outside the comfort zone and off-road a little more seriously than one would think we would with a Tundra and "camper".

Some of the best camping spots seem to be past signs like the one we crawled by below.