So you like to go on really rough roads...

trikebubble said:
We like to go camping and exploring in places where other people are not, so sometimes that forces us to step outside the comfort zone and off-road a little more seriously than one would think we would with a Tundra and "camper".

Some of the best camping spots seem to be past signs like the one we crawled by below.

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Nice suggestions trikebubble, things do tend to bounce around a bit more on the "roads less traveled" don't they! I like your thinking about secure storage in the cab as well. I rolled a Land Rover end over end in my youth, the loose stuff flying around inside is what nearly did me in!
 
Air down...
Lash everything down, especially in the cab.
Camper stuff stowed in cubbies (fragile items protected by pieces of thin, cut up yoga mat) inside cabinets, everything else in a Frontrunner Wolfpack boxes.
 
https://www.cargogear.com/OneItemInfo.aspx?partnum=BNICRM

https://www.cargogear.com/OneItemInfo.aspx?partnum=BNICR

I was looking at something like this for the area behind the front seats in my access cab Tacoma. That's where I stash the tool kits, tire chains, bottle jack and misc bags full of recovery gear and such, all the really heavy stuff and all the things that become deadly missiles in a collision/roll over. I currently "kind of" strap stuff down, but I've been looking for a better solution.

These things seems easy and accessible, anybody have anymore creative ideas?

/2
 
I've gone two seasons with the FWC on my K5 and learned a ton the first season.

My FWC is unique that it bolts onto the body of the truck just the way the stock fiberglass top did. Well, it does now. Some got bolted to the front of the cab like the factory top and I've found some didn't. Let's just say 5 bolts down the bedsides don't quite cut it. So I added a small section of the factory fiberglass top as a header to the front wall of the camper and bolted it to the cab also. Needless to say mine don't move and I don't have turnbuckles or straps to deal with. I do check the bolts to make sure they are tight every now and then. Haven't found one loose yet.

Now the stuff inside is where I had a steep learning curve on. When we refurbished the interior the cabinet doors used standard friction locks similar to what you would use on a cabinet door at home to hold it shut. Woefully inadequate for anything off road. The first big trip I took the camper on was the Mojave road. That's a lot of washboard. Doors flopping open all the time. As the suspension flexed and shifted weight side to side they would fly open too. Pretty quickly I figured a way to lash the doors shut with bungee cords I had stashed in my camping gear. Which meant we had to undo at camp and set back up prior to leaving. Annoying.

The fix was simple. I bought a package of rubber T-handle latches off of Amazon. They are very similar to the ones found on some rotomolded high end coolers. They have a catch that screws on separately, then the handle screws on. Space them out so there is a little bit of tension on the T-handle when latched and it stays nice and tight off road.

I rebuilt the lower bench to include a hinged lid with a fold out flap for a wider sleeping surface this year before the wheeling season started. Problem was the lid and flap rattled like a lumber wagon on a paved road. I could only imagine the noise off road. The rubber T-handle latches came into play again. Along with using the little felt adheasive backed pads where the sections met for a little softness to touch before two sections came together.

The bench with the latches.
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In this current form I've hit up 3 mountain trails here in Colorado this summer and the Rimrocker trail from Montrose to Moab with La Sal Pass tossed in, Hell's Revenge and Flat Iron Mesa trails in Moab. Rock solid. No doors rattling. I have an ARB fridge that is strapped to the floor with D-rings. The cook box (a good sized Pelican case) wedges into the space between the fridge and the bench. Everything else is located inside the cabinet compartments or inside the bench.

A buddy was with me on the Rimrocker and Moab trails with his 77 K5 with a similar FWC camper. I had warned him about tying everything down in the camper or it's going to end up on the floor once we got off road. He thought he did. We got through a good chunk of Hell's Revenge when we stopped to watch the tube buggies climb out of one of the hot tubs. It was a good time to eat lunch we he came back to tell me it looked like a bear got back there and tore it up! Everything that wasn't tied down was on the floor. But as I reminded him that's still a problem since our campers are open to the cab of the truck. If something bad was to happen and you stopped quick (or stood on the nose as we came close to out there) that stuff is going to end up on you in the front seat.

Needless to say he took more time tying stuff down for the next trail day.
 
Zoomad said:
I've gone two seasons with the FWC on my K5 and learned a ton the first season.
It took me a couple of minutes, and second look at your profile pic, to figure out what a K5 was, but now that I know, that's a pretty cool setup. Do you have a few more pictures that you'd be willing to share?
 
slash2 said:
It took me a couple of minutes, and second look at your profile pic, to figure out what a K5 was, but now that I know, that's a pretty cool setup. Do you have a few more pictures that you'd be willing to share?
Thanks and I can totally share.

These are from my last trip attempting Blanca Peak in Southern Colorado. Just made it to the first major rock obstacle and wisely turned back.
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In full camp mode that afternoon.
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slash2 said:
Nice setup Zoomad! Compact, rugged, and I bet powerful. Thanks for sharing!
No problem! I appreciate the comments. There's more on mine over the FWC section in a thread I started over there.

It's been a lot of fun using it considering I have taken it on many tough mountain trails here in the state and the desert out in UT, NV and CA. I've driven it through a lot of trails that most won't take a camper into. Just have to be careful in the trees.
 
As far as securing stuff in the cab I decided to go with some cargo net I had from my former Jeep Wrangler.

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I looped one strap around the back of the drivers and passengers seat base

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and then took a large carabiner and hooked it though the rear seat belt attachment on both sides

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The loose rear corner strap of the net is looped through the carabiner and attached somewhere inboard of the net with another carabiner to secure and tension it.

This set up probably wouldn't keep everything totally secure in a full on roll over, my attachments probably aren't strong enough for that, but it's a starting point using stuff I already had laying around. The commercial cargo nets I listed earlier are probably a better bet.
 
My Hi-Lift jack and shovel are attached to a trailer receiver mounted on the front of the vehicle.


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Looking good slash.

Is that hammer for quick rock hounding deployment ? (We tend to collect on our travels, hence the 1 ton :ninja:)
 
klahanie said:
Looking good slash.

Is that hammer for quick rock hounding deployment ? (We tend to collect on our travels, hence the 1 ton :ninja:)
Ha ha! Yeah, left in place from the last trip out. My wife teaches geology and paleontology so our trips are often centered around finding and if possible, collecting cool minerals and fossils.

Even more heavy things bouncing around that need to be secured!
 
Awesome !

Only amateurs here, with much to learn and so lucky to live where we do.

Bike's a beaut btw !
 
The fact that airing down helps tires to resist punctures from sharp rocks is news to me.
The couple of times I’ve really aired down I did get punctures, this is out in death Valley area and sharp rocks. I have worried about the sidewall bolting out exposing itself.
My single biggest concern out there is puncturing a tire
 
It seems to depend on conditions. A fully inflated tire has less "give". Think of a fully aired up balloon versus one slightly deflated. Depending on how sharp the object is, and the level of inflation of the balloon, you may have a diffent experience in what "pops" the balloon. Aired up is not always right, neither is aired down. I prefer aired down though for most conditions.
 
Did you shim your camper yet? Makes a big difference if you put something between the camper outer wall and the wheel well to keep it from shifting and makes the turn buckles work less. It's only a small gap, but keeping it tight makes a huge difference.
 
Dirt Rider said:
Did you shim your camper yet? Makes a big difference if you put something between the camper outer wall and the wheel well to keep it from shifting and makes the turn buckles work less. It's only a small gap, but keeping it tight makes a huge difference.

That's a very good point Dirt Rider! I have not shimmed between the wheel wells, however my factory (FWC) bed mounting plates do have angled brackets that keep the camper centered in the mounts and hence in the bed, but they do have about 3/8" play in them. I can see where keeping it firmly locked between the wheel wells would lessen the stress on the turn buckles.
 
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