Solar Install completed - thanks to members on this forum.

I think this will answer both of the above questions.

The remote mount meter is essential for you to monitor what is going on with your system. The little led lights on the controller would be good enough to get a rough idea of whats going on....but since we are mounting the controller behind the wood panelling (I assume you are going to mount in the same place that FWC mounts them when doing a factory install) you can't see the controller. Therefore, you would have no idea what is happening. The meter is the only clue from the inside that the camper has a solar system. It is the only visible component from inside.

The meter is really cool. I can see how many volts/amps the panel is providing to the controller, the battery voltage, the watts being used etc. It's nice to know what is going on. For instance....right now my camper battery is fully charged..the watts displayed are 0. When I turn my stereo on I then see that 12 watts are being provided...turn on the fantastic fan and 30 watts are being provided, etc. The meter also provides for system diagnostics so you can troubleshoot problems. It's a really nice unit for what they charge.

The controller uses the battery temperature as a factor in calculating the best charge profile for your battery (hot less juice, cold more juice etc.). Since the controller is phyically mounted in a different location than the battery....the temperature of the battery could be different than the temperature at the controller. Maybe it's not enough difference to effect things much....or maybe it is....the manual for the controller strongly recommends the remote temperature sensor for applications where the controller is not mounted where the battery is located.


Thanks for the excellent explanation :) My controller has the volt and amp meter as well as the temp sensor but I didn't fully comprehend them, now I do! That explains where I need to put the temp sensor. My BZ products controller installs into a cut-out and so the display is visible, a box for it is available but I don't think I'll need it.
 
Thanks for the excellent explanation
smile.gif
My controller has the volt and amp meter as well as the temp sensor but I didn't fully comprehend them, now I do! That explains where I need to put the temp sensor. My BZ products controller installs into a cut-out and so the display is visible, a box for it is available but I don't think I'll need it.


I looked real hard at your unit before I purchased. The only thing that I didn't like was that in the product description it states that the controller is great for flooded, gel and sealed batteries....with no mention of AGM. My camper battery is an AGM. I liked your unit since it is less money and I wouldn't need the remote meter.

When are you going to do your install? Kind of fun.....
 
When are you going to do your install? Kind of fun.....

Fun, like a root canal??? I have to think this through, panel placement, wiring, wiring to truck for the trickle charge.... It's going in my new to me toyhauler so it is a little different routine. The toyhauler is at the shop now, had to move the battery rack to install the anti sway/WD hitch. Bunch of stuff to do on it including the solar but I m already thinking I should have 2 100w panels except in the FWC I got used to not using much juice.
 
Ok, I went for it, bought the 120 watt panel for $222.

When I called solarblvd, they only had 3 left at that price, so I got one of them. That leaves 2 for the taking!!

leadsled, thanks for all the info. There is a marine store down the street that I plan to buy the 10awg wire from. Also need to see when I get it what I will need for mounting. Haven't decided yet how that will work.

I forsee some calls to FWC in my future!!


The instructions require putting in a 25 amp fuse inline with the positive terminal at the battery. Don't forget to order a 10 awg fuse holder....as most fuse holders are not stout enough for a 25 amp fuse. The instructions didn't mention the panel....but I might just add a fuse there too.
 
I looked real hard at your unit before I purchased. The only thing that I didn't like was that in the product description it states that the controller is great for flooded, gel and sealed batteries....with no mention of AGM. My camper battery is an AGM. I liked your unit since it is less money and I wouldn't need the remote meter.


FYI, I just went at looked at the manual for that, it lets you adjust the float voltage 12.5V-15.5V so you could have adjusted it to whatever your particular brand battery requires. (http://www.bzproducts.net/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/MPPT250.pdf)


Another good find on solar supplier site. :)
 
FYI, I just went at looked at the manual for that, it lets you adjust the float voltage 12.5V-15.5V so you could have adjusted it to whatever your particular brand battery requires.


The Morningstar unit uses these set points for the different battery types....and you can also use a computer interface and custom program your own set points.

Gel: 14.0 v absorption
13.7 v float
n/a equalization
n/a equalization calendar

Sealed 14.1 v absorption
13.7 v float
n/a equalization
n/a equalization calendar

AGM 14.3 v absorption
13.7 float
14.5 v equlize voltage
28 days equalization calendar

Flooded 14.4 v absorption
13.7 v float
14.9 v equalize
28 days equalize calendar

It looks like Morningstar uses the same float charge (13.7 v) for all battery types. The absorption voltage varies as well as the equalization voltage and rather or not an equalization phase is included in the charging scheme. It's rather odd that they don't list the bulk voltage.

How important is all of this? I couldn't tell ya....but it is interesting that the Morningstar unit is so precise in it's set point map depending on your battery type. I'm not an electrical engineer and by no means an expert in solar systems. I'll leave it to the experts out there to interpret this data.
 
It looks like Morningstar uses the same float charge (13.7 v) for all battery types. The absorption voltage varies as well as the equalization voltage and rather or not an equalization phase is included in the charging scheme. It's rather odd that they don't list the bulk voltage.


Bulk and adsorption are usually pretty close in charging. The key in my mind is making sure it steps down to a reasonable float.

The BZ doesn't exactly say what it does for adsorption is but a call to them would likely clear that up.
 
The key in my mind is making sure it steps down to a reasonable float.


Thanks pods8.

It looks like the equalization phase is important for AGM and flooded battery types. Here is a quote from the manual:

"the SS-MPPT will equalize a flooded battery for three (3) hours every 28 days. Equalize charging raises the battery voltage abovethe standard absorption voltage so that the electrolyte gasses. This process prevents electrolyte stratification and
equalizes the individual cell voltages within the battery."
 
Looks like I will have my work cut out for me.

I will apologize in advance for all the questions I will have.

After reading this stuff, I am already confused. I am hoping when it all gets here, it will make more sense.

Can't wait to get the stuff

Randy
 
Question: If using the Z mount so that two sides of the rectangular panel will be solid from the panel to the roof, is it better to have the open sides in the front/back or on the sides? I'm thinking open in front/back to allow airflow over and under the panel instead of collecting bugs on the front and adding resistance. Thoughts?


brett13,

I just thought of something else related to your question.

With the "Z" mount full length along the front and back....the installer can figure out where the ribs are under the roof and drill the holes in the appropriate place in the "Z" mount for installation. If the "Z" mounts were located on the sides....the installer would have to insure that the width of the solar panel was just the right measurement so the "Z" mount would end up located over a rib on both sides. Hope this makes sense....
 
I have a 99 Grandby and I'm pretty sure it wasn't pre wired for solar..
I'm wondering where are you guys buying the roof mount plug?
I think I'm going to run a flexible cable up the back side of the rear lift panel and have a plug up on the roof... I'll then be able to change my panel configuration much easier if I choose to..
Thanks,
Chuck
 
Great solar set up!
I was trying to figure a way that the yakima system could be incorporated into having a panel or panels up on the roof. The way you did seems close to perfect. Where did you get the black plastic pieces that you use to attach the panel to the yakima bars? How is your system working out? I know you did it a few years ago but the following is a good link for a bit of insight into RV Solar...
http://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/the-rv-battery-charging-puzzle-2/
 
I'm late to the party, but Leadslead nailed it for me. I also have an 08 Hawk and found the black/red wires in the same place after removing the cabinet front. After consulting with Terry at FWC I took the plunge and drilled the roof. After a few minutes of anxious fishing, I found the prewired red/black #12 wires in the roof.

I was unsure of the remote meter vs. the controller, but now I think I get it and purchased both in the Morningstar flavor. The 120W panel has come down from $232 to $132 :) . My total cost, including shipping and tax is just shy of $400.

Thanks for the detailed write up. It made it possible to pull the trigger. Looking forward to the install!
 
Lighthawk said:
I'm late to the party, but Leadslead nailed it for me. I also have an 08 Hawk and found the black/red wires in the same place after removing the cabinet front. After consulting with Terry at FWC I took the plunge and drilled the roof. After a few minutes of anxious fishing, I found the prewired red/black #12 wires in the roof.

I was unsure of the remote meter vs. the controller, but now I think I get it and purchased both in the Morningstar flavor. The 120W panel has come down from $232 to $132 :) . My total cost, including shipping and tax is just shy of $400.

Thanks for the detailed write up. It made it possible to pull the trigger. Looking forward to the install!
Click to expand...
I goofed. I purchased the Morningstar Sunlight-10 ($86), which is NOT compatible with the remote meter or temp sensor. After some confusion with Solar Blvd. and doing my own research, I realize what I need is the Morningstar Sunsaver MPPT-15L ($229) which has an RJ jack for the remote meter and will support the remote sensor ($26).

So, my out of pocket cost is more like $600 not $400 for 120w system with remote meter & sensor. :unsure:
Solar Blvd gives 30 days to return items, so I'll ship back the wrong controller today and I've already ordered the replacement parts.
My install should complete next week. I already have the panel and I've installed the roof mount plug, so I'm on my way!
 
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