Solar power system.

Toddhom

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May 22, 2019
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Location
Los Angeles
I’m wondering why I would want to spend $400.00 on a Victron charge controller and a Timetric battery monitor when I can get a Renogy 30 amp charge controller with the Bluetooth module for half the price
 
A Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/20 is $160 and their BMV-712 Battery Monitor is $210 on Amazon. They are a trusted company with good bluetooth apps.

I don't have any experience with Renogy, other than they seemed to be a fly by night reseller of cheap Chinese products 4-5 years ago. Maybe they now engineer and spec their Chinese (assuming) suppliers to a higher level then when they started. Dunno. They seem to be the 'first solar systems' that many RV'ers get based solely on price point.

Even though Bogart Engineering products seem dated, the thought process and experience of solar charging is solid IMHO and I use their products on my diesel pusher with good results though in the future I plan on replacing with Victron across the board. Controller, monitor, inverter.
 
They do different things. The battery monitor (get the Victron one, the Trimetric is long past it's prime) tells you the state of charge of your battery, the charge controller controls the solar charging process.

The question should be - why would you pay about the same amount for the untested Renogy charge controller and bluetooth dongle as you would pay for the very well supported and respected Victron charge controller with built in bluetooth? In either case you would still need a battery monitor.
 
I think you do the research on this forum, gain knowledge and then make your decision based on your feelings. Some people always want to buy the best product available and there is a lot to be said about that. Others want to buy the cheapest product and that isn't always the best solution. Somewhere there exists a compromise. Also, you might buy the "best" today and then a better product comes along, so then do you replace your stuff.
I have a go-power 30amp controller, it doesn't have blue tooth but the new ones do,($124) so I have to visually check it. I have 2 Renogy 100 watt panels ($115 ea on sale) and 2 Renogy 260 ampHr 6 volt batteries. My system works for me running 2 Cpap machines, a National Luna refrigerator / freezer and the FWC OEM furnace.

Yes, I would have better knowledge it I had a battery monitor, but at the end of the day I am very comfortable just using the built in meter in the solar controller, which displays, amps from the panels, voltage on the batteries and percent charge. I also have the OEM Blue sea ACR which charges the house batteries with the alternator. Again, reading everything here about size of wire and the Blue sea ACR, it isn't the best setup for charging from the alternator, but again, it works for me.

I am sure there are many others out in the field with various less than optimal systems doing just fine.

Everything is a compromise, pick yours. Good Luck
 
Most charge controllers aren't adjustable. You're stuck with the default settings they think are correct for bulk, absorption and float. You probably have a choice of normal or agm, maybe another. So if the default absorption setting is 14.4v and your battery manufacturer specifies 14.8 you aren't going to get a proper charge. A charge controller like the Victron will let you adjust those settings and make your battery very happy. Its a bit more work than a plug and pray system but it might be the difference between a happy camper and one that posts up "my batteries are almost dead in the morning".
 
Morningstar SunSaver 10L and Trimetric 2030-RV battey monitor.

Our system is not complicated. . Engle compressor fridge. 4 LED bulbs. one Fantastic Fan. Solar on the roof.One house battery. a small 1.25 amp charger/maintainer to "top" off the battery before going on a trip off the grid and camping with hookups in the rain. We don't have or need the IOTA power converter.

We have both since 2014. SunSaver is plug and play or as Craig reports pray though we have had no problem with it. The Trimetric measures the amp input from all 3 sources (alternator, solar, 110v - while as I understand the Zamp does not) as well as showing me the amp draw by device. We use our camper mostly in the fall, winter, and spring when the sun is low in the sky.

Our Renogy 150 watt easily keeps up with battery drain and recharge.
 
I have another question. I have a 160 watt solar panel. The calculation for sizing a charge controller for that size panel is 13.33 amps so I would get a 20 amp controller. In the future I may want to add a 100 watt solar suitcase. The two combined calculate out to 21.66 amps. Do I need to jump up to a 30 amp controller or can the 20 amp handle the two combined?
 
Have to also keep in mind that a panel rated for 160 watts will only output that in the most ideal conditions. Less than ideal = less than rated output. Mounted flat on the roof with the usual thin film of dust on it, and with a winter sun bearing down on it thru a 50% cloud cover isn't going to produce 160 watts.
 
With a 160w panel i can get 8 amps if ev is perfect. What kind of panel do you use ? I have two diff brands and only a couple of times they have reached 16/17 amps (combined)
 

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