Solar suitcase exterior plug-in location. .?

[Rockcod]

I have in my mind what I think I will want/need for my recently ordered ATC . Solar system and refrigeration, likely as efficient as I can find. I am just starting to dig through the Ultimate solar threads, and whatever related info I can absorb. I would like a plug -in to supplement the 150 watt roof top panel. Where is a good location? . High/low front/rear etc. Are there others things to know with regards to pre wire. ? Nice thing is I can add the solar suitcase later and put more $$ into the build . I see Renology mentioned here and it is also what ATC uses for panels. First thing I need to do is find a basic wiring diagram so I can understand how the system is tied to the truck/shore power and solar panel. . I will be going back to visit the gang in Sacramento in a week or two, having an idea when I get there helps flatten my learning curve.

Thank you all very much. ,!!!!

Rock......

 

[ski3pin]

I installed an exterior plug in the passenger side front corner of the overhang over the bed rails. The battery is in that interior corner. This allows me to plug in a portable panel or a battery tender when the truck & camper are in the garage, or exterior power for a 12V device.

 

[rotti]

Mine also is at the front of the passenger side....why?
That is the shortest run to the batteries.
I only have the Renology 100w suitcase and it has supplied all my power needs.

 

[Rockcod]

I installed an exterior plug in the passenger side front corner of the overhang over the bed rails. The battery is in that interior corner. This allows me to plug in a portable panel or a battery tender when the truck & camper are in the garage, or exterior power for a 12V device.

That's excellent, I have 3 battery tenders already in use in the garage and it never occurred to me there usefulness for battery maintenance while at home. And the closer to the batteries makes perfect sense. Very good thank you.

 

[Rockcod]

Mine also is at the front of the passenger side....why?
That is the shortest run to the batteries.
I only have the Renology 100w suitcase and it has supplied all my power needs.

That is the one I had in mind, nice to know it does the job. I saw your picture while browsing about and now I can make out where it plugs in. Is there a universal receptacle sold with the kit ? Or do suppliers use there own proprietary version.?
Thanks.

 

[craig333]

I did pretty much the same as ski3pin. Works great.

 

[rotti]

That is the one I had in mind, nice to know it does the job. I saw your picture while browsing about and now I can make out where it plugs in. Is there a universal receptacle sold with the kit ? Or do suppliers use there own proprietary version.?
Thanks.

My install was done by the FWC dealer here in Denver and I believe it is a Zamp Solar product. Using that outlet for a Battery Tender lead doesn't work on mine. When plugged in, I get a reverse polarity warning from the BT. I'm definitely no EE so I'll defer to others to explain that....works fine with the suitcase though (probably because the suitcase has its own charge controller?).

I installed a BT lead to the truck battery and that charges both the truck and camper batteries at the same time.

 

[Rockcod]

My install was done by the FWC dealer here in Denver and I believe it is a Zamp Solar product. Using that outlet for a Battery Tender lead doesn't work on mine. When plugged in, I get a reverse polarity warning from the BT. I'm definitely no EE so I'll defer to others to explain that....works fine with the suitcase though (probably because the suitcase has its own charge controller?).

I installed a BT lead to the truck battery and that charges both the truck and camper batteries at the same time.

Not sure about the reverse polarity issue, wouldn't think so, but I know little at this point. When I asked Jeff he asked where do you want it. He didn't ask what I was plugging in. I just though whatever he installed, there would be a matching unit. Probably Renolgy product, but I'll check.
Thanks for the above input.

 

[PaulT]

Because these 2pin flat connectors are not polarized, you must check polarity with a voltmeter before plugging an unknown cable from a device into an existing circuit. You want the positive side of the charger cable to the positive battery connection.

It is, also, possible that the wire color won't help you decide. For example, look at the second photo for this 2 pin connection.
https://www.amazon.com/CES-Gauge-Quick-Disconnect-Harness/dp/B0057ZQJ12

The pair has a red wire into the male pin on one side and, also, a black wire into the male pin on the other side. You can use the part to make your own adapter that has both the wire color correct and the pin polarity correct for your application.

Paul

 

[craig333]

I don' t know if it was a manufacturing mistake or they just don't care but there seems to be little standardization among manufacturers on those plugs. Unfortunately you really need to check before you plug.

 

[Vic Harder]

I installed an exterior plug in the passenger side front corner of the overhang over the bed rails. The battery is in that interior corner. This allows me to plug in a portable panel or a battery tender when the truck & camper are in the garage, or exterior power for a 12V device.

Mr 3pin, Did your camper some with FWC installed solar controller? And are you therefore feeding the battery charger into your solar controller when you plug in the battery tender? That would be an interesting hook up. I'm curious about the interactions of how that might work.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Vic, Señor 3Pin has an ATC, not a FWC. I believe they installed their own solar system when they completed the build. I don't have any details regarding their portable solar.

 

[Squatch]

I installed extra 8 gauge wiring to the same point inside (A circuit breaker prior to charge controller) as my roof panel. It comes out through a small hole in the bottom side of the overhang and has a 50 amp Anderson powerpole connector at the rear corner of the truck.





I'll probably redress it back under the edge out of the weather a bit soon.

 

[Happyjax]

Well I don't have my camper or truck yet but I did build a portable solar system with 2 35AH AGM's fora fun learning experience. I don't use it much yet but it still needs to stay charged......

One thing I learned was that it is often easier to keep them charged without using the solar array which has to be taken outside with both my batteries, on a sunny day, with no trees around.....(I have many) because it is not set up in a camper yet.

Sooooo being the thrifty person I am and also being a collector of old power units, I found an old laptop power brick that puts out about 18Vdc. @2amps. That is the same voltage as my solar panels and enough current to do a top off, so I insert the output of the power brick into my solar charge controller and voila! I am charging my batteries without buying a battery tender......

I would not try this on heavily discharged batteries unless I could supply a little more current.....

Just in case anyone else might like an easy and cheap way to keep a charge when solar is not the best choice

Happy New Year!

 

[Rockcod]

I installed extra 8 gauge wiring to the same point inside (A circuit breaker prior to charge controller) as my roof panel. It comes out through a small hole in the bottom side of the overhang and has a 50 amp Anderson powerpole connector at the rear corner of the truck.





I'll probably redress it back under the edge out of the weather a bit soon.

I like the larger conductors, can't hurt. So you plug your suitcase solar panel(s) into this and they then become an added source for battery charging ? I don't know the wiring sequence for a system that has roof mount permanet solar, plug in solar,two AGM batteries and a 110 volt shore power . I suppose this would be common set up. Thanks for the images.

Roc

 

[Rockcod]

Well I don't have my camper or truck yet but I did build a portable solar system with 2 35AH AGM's fora fun learning experience. I don't use it much yet but it still needs to stay charged......

One thing I learned was that it is often easier to keep them charged without using the solar array which has to be taken outside with both my batteries, on a sunny day, with no trees around.....(I have many) because it is not set up in a camper yet.

Sooooo being the thrifty person I am and also being a collector of old power units, I found an old laptop power brick that puts out about 18Vdc. @2amps. That is the same voltage as my solar panels and enough current to do a top off, so I insert the output of the power brick into my solar charge controller and voila! I am charging my batteries without buying a battery tender......

I would not try this on heavily discharged batteries unless I could supply a little more current.....

Just in case anyone else might like an easy and cheap way to keep a charge when solar is not the best choice

Happy New Year!

Good idea and probably a candidate for the cheap mods thread, and laptop chargers are a buck or two in the thrift stores.

 

[Squatch]

Yes on my camper the wiring is connected parallel to the roof wiring. + to +, - to -. Just plug in the portable panels (without charge controller). I use the camper charge controller. I don't have a commercial suitcase with controller. Just a couple of portable panels.
Think of my set up as just temporarily adding a couple of more panels on the roof.

Those connectors are vastly superior to the stock 2 pin SAE style.

More details on the setup in the 3rd link in my Signature.

 

[Rockcod]

Yes on my camper the wiring is connected parallel to the roof wiring. + to +, - to -. Just plug in the portable panels (without charge controller). I use the camper charge controller. I don't have a commercial suitcase with controller. Just a couple of portable panels.
Think of my set up as just temporarily adding a couple of more panels on the roof.

Those connectors are vastly superior to the stock 2 pin SAE style.

More details on the setup in the 3rd link in my Signature.

Lots off good stuff in your build thread, the shower tube, now that's another great thought. At this stage just temporarily adding a supplemental panel for intermittent sunny days or parking in the shade and setting aux panels in the sun..
I keep seeing concerns over small guage wire to various parts of an electrical system. Is this something I should look into ? I'm sure they would install one gauge bigger if I wanted.

 

[Squatch]

I'm using the stock 12 gauge roof wiring on my Eagle shell. It works. The part outside the roof to panel is 10 g.

My under the rear connector is there for the same reasons you want. So far it's only been used to test it. It's 8 gauge marine wire. I'm not going to rip the camper apart to replace wiring that works. But anything new I add is up sized and marine spec.

As for the shower tube. I haven't used it on the camper yet. 5 gallons is a lot of weight to lift with the roof. I need to upgrade to exterior lift struts before I use it on the camper. I was surprised how much just the racks and solar panel increased the lifting effort. I've upgraded my inside struts from 60-80lb. It helps but I'll need more for that shower.

 

[ski3pin]

Vic, Señor 3Pin has an ATC, not a FWC. I believe they installed their own solar system when they completed the build. I don't have any details regarding their portable solar.

Goes directly to the camper battery