Southern Utah (with a little northern AZ) May 2011

It was the night I camped at Red Canyon C.G. that I hit the top of my head on the door frame while entering the camper. It was not the first time I’ve done this, and it didn’t make me sit down or anything, so I didn’t think much of it…but I think this was the cause of the nearly-week-long headache that began the next day.

In Escalante (the town) I stopped at the Interagency Visitor Center, got information about the condition of the Hole In The Rock Road (“better than it’s been in years – a little washboard”, she said) and bought a couple maps and a new hiking guide. I headed out of town and down the H-I-T-R-Road. I drove all the way down to the end – 54 miles, pleased to see all the vehicles heading out, day-trippers it looked like. Even with flat midday light, it’s a cool area – this photo from somewhere in the middle of the route.
gallery_2431_75_503029.jpg



At the end of the road, at the historic “Hole in the rock” spot, I chatted for a bit with a couple from Sacramento who had an older FWC rig, then I turned around and drove back to find the closest “legal” (previously-used, non-trailhead) spot to camp. The road is closest to the scenic/slick-rock/canyons nearest its end, so preferred it down there. I found a spot on the south side of the road, near “50-Mile-Point”, a short walk from the beginning of infinite slickrock, that was pretty good – except for all the cow sh!t…but acceptable nevertheless. I spent 3 nights (May 5, 6, 7) there; Elevation 4822 ft. As the sun dropped in the sky and light started getting good I took a few photos, including a panorama from the edge of what I referred to as “infinite slickrock”, a short walk from my campsite.
gallery_2431_75_947011.jpg

Here’s a link to a full-size version of this image: Pano1

gallery_2431_75_504564.jpg


I got up before sunrise next morning and took a few photos, and I’d planned to do a hike (early, before it got hot) along/down Davis Gulch, but I noticed that my head hurt when I shook it, and I decided that getting my blood pumping in a hike probably wasn’t a good idea for a headache. So I just hung-out, relaxed, read, sat in the shade as it moved around my camper. I did this the next day, too, as my headache got a little worse. I considered that maybe this was dehydration-related, so I drank enough water that I was urinating frequently, but that didn’t seem to help. "Fifty-Mile Point" is the formation behind my rig.
gallery_2431_75_336464.jpg


gallery_2431_75_26038.jpg
Evening primrose??

On the third morning in this spot – even though I’d done no hiking in this area that I’d planned to hike a lot – I decided that it was time to go, so I packed up and drove back to Escalante (town) and checked into the Prospector Inn motel (recommended!). I was due for a shower, and I figured that the cool comfort of a motel might do my head good. I’d posted my headache issue on my Facebook page, and a concerned friend called and insisted that I call my doctor (or on-call-substitute), so I did. The P.A. who returned my call was very rational, i.e., no need to overreact, no need for emergency CT scan, just “wait and see”.

Next morning, May 9, my headache was less (though not gone), and I decided that I was well enough to continue my trip. I had a nice breakfast at the “Circle D Eatery”, where I had a chat with the staff about the cold wet spring that both Utah and Oregon were having and headed towards Boulder and the start of the Burr Trail. The west end of the Burr Trail goes through “Long Canyon”, and it’s very cool! I stopped and spent part of an hour photo-ing and did a walk up a scenic little slot canyon.
gallery_2431_75_59391.jpg


gallery_2431_75_9825.jpg


gallery_2431_75_88248.jpg


gallery_2431_75_162457.jpg


gallery_2431_75_32693.jpg


gallery_2431_75_127006.jpg


Onwards, eastward, down the Burr Trail towards Capitol Reef National Park....
 
My plan was to find a place to camp along the Burr Trail west of Capitol Reef National Park – preferably a place with a big view. I ended up on a dirt road a couple miles south of the Burr on the east side of Studhorse Peaks. It had a pretty nice view, and I had it to myself. Elevation 6836 ft. I spent the nights of May 9 and 10 there, mostly just hanging out (as my headache continued to fade) and amusing myself with photography around/from my camp...trying to be arty at times.
rolleyes.gif

gallery_2431_75_131949.jpg

My campsite for 2 nights.

gallery_2431_75_161723.jpg

The rock in the foreground reminded me of a smiling dinosaur head.

gallery_2431_75_77222.jpg

I liked the bone in the rock.

I noticed a packrat nest, and on closer examination I noticed that the critter had incorporated flat rocks as part of its roof -- like a slate roof on a human house.
gallery_2431_75_281766.jpg



It snowed enough that surrounding hills turned white, but it didn't stick much where I was. Two different shutter speeds here:
gallery_2431_75_230675.jpg


I spent some time watching clouds develop. I‘ve always said that the coolest, most-awesome things I’ve ever seen have been cloud formations– better than Alaskan Mts, better than Yosemite, Grand Canyon, Swiss Alps. Not these in particular, which are kinda ordinary, but still… (Contrast detail assisted by HDR photography)
gallery_2431_75_184950.jpg


gallery_2431_75_62934.jpg


gallery_2431_75_70313.jpg

This one looks like a huge gaping mouth, ready to swallow passing aircraft.
tongue.gif


I also spent some time exploring details of lichen on boulders in camp,including a little macro-lens fun.
gallery_2431_75_43527.jpg


gallery_2431_75_161312.jpg


gallery_2431_75_141370.jpg


Next, Capitol Reef National Park.
 
The Burr Trail Road is all paved west of Capitol Reef N.P., but turns to dirt/gravel (generally good-quality, high-speed) after it enters the Park.
High speed is not recommended on these switchbacks, however, which drop down/over the Waterpocket Fold to the east side of the Park
biggrin.gif
:
gallery_2431_51_142780.jpg


Fresh snow on the Henrys to the east:
gallery_2431_51_43543.jpg


I drove all the way north up the east side (the road here generally called the "Notom-Bullfrog Road") to the junction with UT 24 and then a few miles west to the Park Visitor Center for more maps (for current use and future trips), guidebooks, geology books, etc. -- spent $99, but I don't mind $ going to these Natural History gift shops. I got a spot in the main Fruita Campground (I don't mind "official camping" once in a while), then headed 12 miles west to Torrey for truck fuel, food-supplies, and more ICE for the ice chest!
rolleyes.gif
. I spent one night (May 11) in the Fruita C.G., which was fine; elevation 5577 ft.

Next day I wandered back down the east side of the Park, down the Waterpocket Fold, south, on the Notom-Bullfrog Road. I took this panorama, west-facing looking at a cool spot of the east side of the Fold, midday:
gallery_2431_51_653527.jpg

Here's a link to a full-size version of this image: Pano3

Late in the day I spent -- wasted? -- quite a bit of time driving back and forth searching for a suitable BLM spot for camping -- the Cedar Mesa "primitive" c.g. was full. Eventually I took the BLM spur road that led to/past the "Hall's Creek Overlook" just inside the Park. I camped just outside of the Park at this spot for two nights, May 12 & 13; elevation 4869 ft.
gallery_2431_51_44417.jpg
 
Next morning, headache ~gone, I drove north a few miles to the trailhead for my first real hike of the Utah part of the trip -- finally! Headquarters Canyon. It was only 3.2 miles roundtrip and flat, but I wasn't complaining -- it was beautiful and had a short-but-significant real slot to it.
gallery_2431_51_67503.jpg

I think it's beautiful how the colorful rock degrades into colorful dirt!
gallery_2431_51_70237.jpg


After hiking up an open wash the actual canyon of HQ Canyon starts with the slot:
gallery_2431_51_181854.jpg


gallery_2431_51_110796.jpg


gallery_2431_51_98524.jpg


Then it opens up into a regular narrow kinda canyon.
gallery_2431_51_180081.jpg


The rock walls have lots of contrast-color and lots of texture at a range of scales:
gallery_2431_51_35366.jpg


I called this "The Watchful Sentinel":
gallery_2431_51_39058.jpg


This lizard picked a great rock for posing; thank-you Mr. Lizard!
gallery_2431_51_86394.jpg


I brought my tripod on this hike to use for shooting 360° panos. They didn't turn out that special, but it does show how it looked from one point in the canyon, so here's a link to the better pano: Pano6 (use QuickTime viewer/player/plug-in to view). You can pan up and down a bit as well as round-and-round.

It was a nice hike!
smile.gif

I returned to my previous BLM campsite near Hall's Cr Overlook for a second night.
 
Next morning, May 14, I got packed up before sunrise to get photos of dawn on the Waterpocket Fold. It was really nice. On the drive north a few miles to my planned spot I saw a bobcat standing in the road ahead of me.
ohmy.gif
SUPER cool!
smile.gif
Only the second time I've seen one of these kitties in the wild! He ran off before I got close enough to even think of getting a photo.

gallery_2431_51_888410.jpg

Here's a link to a full-size version of this image: Pano07
I liked the light on this, and I especially liked the dark clouds providing dramatic backdrop to the magnificent rock.

I took a few other photos after the pano work as the clouds moved in completely and things got a little darker.
gallery_2431_51_224366.jpg

These two are looking north, along the more-eroded layers of the Waterpocket Fold, along the Notom-Bullfrog road.
gallery_2431_51_6805.jpg

I liked the colored dirt layers -- remnants of what had been colored-rock layers.
gallery_2431_51_53385.jpg

HDR photography brought out a lot of contrast-detail in the clouds.
gallery_2431_51_87464.jpg


After this early-morning photo-fun I continued north a bit to the Cedar Mesa (official, Park, dry) Campground, where I snagged the primo spot. Elevation 5603 ft. I spent the night there. During the evening as I sat in the camper reading I caught a glimpse of movement across the floor of the camper: A mouse/rat/rodent-of-some-kind. It had gotten in through a slightly-open turnbuckle access panel, which means it had crawled up into the bed of the truck. When I moved it ran back out the open panel, and I closed it. Later I heard it trying to get back in again...
dry.gif
...afraid I might wake up with my nose gnawed off
ohmy.gif
. But the camper stayed rodent-free the rest of the night.
smile.gif
 
Next morning, May 15, late morning, I left the C.G. and headed back up to Torrey and got a room in the Rim Rock Inn motel; elevation 6525 ft. As it was only mid-afternoon I drove back to the park to do a hike that the new Capitol Reef Hiking Guide recommended doing late-afternoon for best light: Golden Throne. It's at the end of the Scenic Drive -- the "official" scenic drive.

Looking back and down at the parking area for this hike's trailhead and for the more-popular Capitol Gorge hike.
gallery_2431_51_29402.jpg


In case hikers didn't know when to stop:
gallery_2431_51_84184.jpg


Now turn around and look at the object/namesake of the hike -- the Golden Throne:
gallery_2431_51_108500.jpg


Don't step on the crypto!
ohmy.gif
(cryptobiotic soil, that is)
gallery_2431_51_71125.jpg

Most of the trail has been set to stay on bedrock to protect delicate soils.

This is the dome-y zone of the park:
gallery_2431_51_206150.jpg


I noticed several interesting/odd rocks next to the trail:
gallery_2431_51_162376.jpg


This big boulder was delicately perched on the precipice, poised on just a couple of points of contact above the void:
gallery_2431_51_171962.jpg


I thought this one, the grey one, looked like a rear-quarter view of some kind of short-legged critter with it's left-front limb raised...and some kind of hat.
gallery_2431_51_125403.jpg


It was a nice hike, and late-afternoon was the right time to do it.
I enjoyed the shower back at the motel....after a dinner of cheeseburger, fries and chocolate shake from "Slackers" in Torrey.

[To be continued later today...I need a break!]
 
Great trip report. I am enjoying every bit of it.

I am reading your report while I am working on processing images from that area, the breaks help keep my eyes from going fuzzy. :oops:

The Capitol Reef area is such an amazing place.
 
The morning of May 16: Truck-fuel, supplies and more ice in Torrey. My plan/desire was to do the Navajo Knobs hike at the north end of the Park, so I decided I might as well just stay again in the developed Fruita Campground since that's just a couple miles from the trailhead, so I did. But the weather was dreary, cloudy, etc....and I lost my psych to hike. So I spent the day in the C.G. reading...napping...etc.

Morning of May 17: Weather was no better, and I decided to leave Capitol Reef, leave Utah and start heading west -- I thought maybe if there was better weather coming (from the west) that I'd meet it halfway -- in Nevada. So I did.
After leaving the campground I stopped at the picnic/day-use area next to the Fremont River so that I could get some pics of these amazing-huge and gnarly cottonwoods.
gallery_2431_51_77079.jpg


gallery_2431_51_18288.jpg

I've never seen anything like these specimens!

I re-fueled and bought a few more groceries in Delta, UT on my way to Great Basin National Park in far-eastern Nevada -- one of my long-time favorite places. In fact, I'd last been there just a few months before, late-December.

Stopped along the way to take a few photos, like this one of Sevier Desert in far-western Utah.
gallery_2431_17_57889.jpg


I stopped again, at the Border Inn (UT/NV border), to get some candy/snacks. I bought a "Big Hunk" candy bar and later saw that its freshness date was August 2008
ohmy.gif
Is that legal?? I ate it anyway, but I think the Border Inn should take a closer look at their inventory.
rolleyes.gif

Arriving at GBNP I got a nice campsite in the mostly-empty Lower Lehman Creek Campground (the only one open), elevation 7499 ft. I spent two nights there (May 17 & 18).
 
It rained a bit in the late-afternoon/evening. It didn't get very cold overnight -- barely freezing -- but it was cold
enough to accumulate ~2 inches of snow.
Snow-capped Jeff Davis/Wheeler Peak in the background.

gallery_2431_33_153114.jpg


The campsite-pad was not flat enough, even with my triple-2X10s, so I had to add a native rock to the stack on each side.
gallery_2431_33_185862.jpg


It was a very nice, very pretty morning -- quite a bit of sun to shine on the snow-flocking.
gallery_2431_33_161521.jpg


gallery_2431_33_49593.jpg


I needed some exercise and decided to get some by hiking up the main road that heads up from the Lehman Campgrounds to the Wheeler Peak area. The Wheeler Peak C.G., was closed (still buried in snow, no doubt), but the road was open. I hiked up to the "8500 ft" sign (about 3.5 miles one-way) and that felt good.

View from the road back/down at the Lower Lehman C.G
gallery_2431_33_29173.jpg


From the high-point of my hike/walk I enjoyed the view -- including to the north and the storm over the northern part of the Snake Range.
gallery_2431_33_43736.jpg


These cuties were growing next to the road, near the campground -- don't know what they are:
gallery_2431_33_135710.jpg


Back in camp it was a nice evening -- not warm, but photogenic -- one of the reasons I like GBNP so much! :)
gallery_2431_33_40998.jpg


It's an arid area, so the primary trees are pinyon and juniper, but where there's water -- next to Lehman Creek -- there are firs and aspens and willows, etc. Very cool.
gallery_2431_33_156014.jpg


Love this place!
gallery_2431_33_137267.jpg


One more campspot to come before home...
 
The morning of May 19 I was ready to continue west, towards home...but I didn't want to get home that day, Thursday -- 2 days earlier than I'd planned. I thought I might stop/stay at Spencer Hot Springs, west of Austin, or if that looked too busy I might go all the way to south-east Oregon.
So I broke camp, left GBNP, got fuel, snacks, etc in Ely; made use of the handy WiFi connection leaking out of the White Pine Co Library (west end of town, across the main street from the High School), then headed west on 50.

The road to Spencer was not muddy as I'd feared, and when I got there early-afternoon I was pleased to discover that it was completely vacant. That is, nobody was camped around/near it, which seems to be a rare occurrence, but maybe because it was a weekday in a non-holiday week. I decided that this was far enough for the day, so I set up my camper on the bench/plateau just above the main pool -- a couple-hundred yards away -- and then enjoyed a short soak. It was very windy at that point, so even with the incoming water fully on it wasn't as hot as I like it.

I enjoyed taking photos in the evening -- single shots and a couple of panos -- as dramatic clouds poured over the Toiyabe Range and spilled into the Big Smoky Valley.
gallery_2431_14_63537.jpg


gallery_2431_14_148934.jpg

Here's a link to a larger-size version of this image: Pano09

About 2am I was awoken by the sound of rigs -- multiple rigs -- pulling in around the pool area below me. I could see by the lights that they were mostly trucks/passenger-vans pulling enclosed utility trailers. Not RVs, not campers, not camp-trailers. I counted at least 6 or 7 vehicles. Seemed a tad odd.
huh.gif
But their excited-after-traveling chatter died down within 30 or 40 minutes, so it wasn't a problem. I got up before they left the next morning, and I could see official-looking emblems on the doors of the trucks/vans and the people wandering around packing up tents looked college-age, so it must have been a big college-class field trip, on their way to/from somewhere else. They left before I did.
I took another short soak -- the water was much hotter, the way I like it -- because there was no wind, and then I headed on homeward.

I refueled in Austin then again in Winnemucca. I stopped for lunch -- cheeseburger and fries -- at Fields Cafe (Alvord Basin, southeast Oregon, where they know me by name
smile.gif
). I refueled again in Burns and made it home.
 
In the 21 days of my trip I drove 2897 miles and spent $1009 on 255 gallons of gasoline.

It was a good trip.
Yeah, it would have been better if I didn't have that several-day headache -- I would have been able to enjoy hiking in the Escalante Canyon Country. And it would have been more-convenient if my refrigerator hadn't failed, but the 'fridge didn't affect my plans much.
But I enjoyed it despite these issues -- a good trip.
smile.gif


The cost for gasoline for a trip like this is a concern. It causes me to think about maybe doing some road-trips in my car and doing minimalist tent-camping. My car (Honda Civic) gets more than 3 times the gas mileage of my truck...but then, I would have to avoid muddy/bad roads and it would be a less-comfortable camping experience.
We'll see.

That's my report. Hope you got something out of it. :)
 
1st. Thanks for a great trip report.
2nd. When you first posted, i was looking for ideas on where to go. Loved the photos, and since i had not been down there in years headed down to Escalante with the wife. We may have crossed paths once or twice.
Since it was our first trip of this nature in the truck camper, and your report was so helpful thought i would say thanks.
Glad your head is better.
 
Wonderful reminders of our 3 week trip last Fall. Great photos with some incredible clouds and dark stormy weather. It is sad about your headache, but I am glad it lessened later. Gas is expensive even will be in out Taco with auto and 4 cylinder. But, life is for exploring and enjoying our beautiful country so don't sweat it.
 
Great report. Beautiful country. Now I just have to figure out how to get 21 days off. I'm excited about three this weekend :rolleyes:
 
Thanks for taking the time to put that report together, you have some really wonderful pics in there. Way to kick off your retirement, you make us working stiffs just a wee bit jealous but that's ok.
smile.gif
Good onya
 

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom