Steens Mountain And Hart Mountain Antelope Refuge July 2009

DirtyDog

Captain Leisure
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Eugene, Oregon
Steens Mountain is a prime spot I visited many years ago and have always wanted to go back to. The problem with the Steens is that it is way out there, even for Oregon locals. Another place in the general vicinity worth visiting is Hart Mountain Antelope Refuge - a lesser known spot that I have also been wanting to revisit for quite some time. My little science buddy Alex and his parental units were in on the plan so here we go!

Some basic info: Steens Mountain is one of the largest fault block mountains in the West (I think that only the Grand Tetons is larger). Fault block mountains are unique in that they rise on one side gradually over a great distance and then fall dramatically on the other side in the form of a series of cliffs with thousands of feet of abrupt elevation change. Looking at fault block mountains from the gentle side they don't look like much at all. Looking at Steens Mountain as you approach it from the west it's easy to wonder what all the hubub is about. Don't let your eyes fool you though as what you are looking at is a gentle slope that culminates in over 5,000 feet of elevation gain over many miles. One of the more interesting features of giant fault block mountains is that they produce a large amount of land area at high altitude. The result is that they get and hold a lot of snow. Steens Mountain was heavily glaciated during the ice age evidence of those glaciers endures as giant glacial valleys. Driving hours through the desert to a mountain with glacial valleys is a very unique experience. Anyway, Steens rocks and I'll prove it with some photos.

We arrived at French Glen at the base of Steens and drove approximately 19 miles to our meeting place at Fish Lake campground. Fish Lake was pretty full and Alex's parental unit 3956-i (aka Ryan) had found a spot on a small lake just a half a mile up the road from Fish Lake so we were good to go:

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The plan the next day was to explore around the summit and hike to Wildhorse Lake. Kiger Gorge:

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View from East Rim (looking at the Alvord Desert over 5,000 feet below):

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Almost there:

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Alex wading in the stream flowing out of the lake (one of my favorite photos ever):

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The girlz had to be home for "work" on Monday so Alex, Ryan and I took the long way home by way of Hart Mountain Antelope Refuge. Hart Mountain is a little known area with a lot more to do and see than most people realize. The downside is that seasonal closures restrict access to the best parts for most of the year so plan on going between August 1st and December 31st for total action potential.

Hot Springs Campground at Hart Mountain features a few hot springs in a central location with camping in three separate aspen groves situated around the hot springs:

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Awning comes in handy on a hot day:

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These are the nicest hot springs you are likely to find at a remote campground. The rock structure was reportedly built by the "Order of the Antelope" which has a seemingly secretive and sordid history at the refuge. I hope to investigate more on this organization and have an article on it in the future.

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******Disclaimer: we mistakenly drove the Guano Creek Road before it officially opened on August 1st. All the gates were open and our approach through Hot Springs Campground either didn't have signs or we missed them. I don't endorse accessing closed areas. It was our mistake.

But we did it so - heading out:

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The Guano Creek road is mostly desert but has many spring-fed valleys full of aspens. It's really an amazing drive:

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Old gravestones from soldiers that died in the area in the 1860's:

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Mysterious Order of the Antelope (hopefully more about this one day):

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Finally heading West out of the refuge:

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Steens and Hart Mountains are the best of the "Oregon Outback". Anyone looking for some late summer exploring off the beaten path should definitely try to put Eastern Oregon on the schedule.
 
Great stuff DD! Definitely one of my favorite areas in this state.. but as you say it is a long way from anywhere. Burns is a long way and when you get there.. it is even a long trip from there. Of course you can go in through Lakeview and Plush.. but the trip is not any shorter. Seems like I make it over that way about once every three years or so. We came through there in the first part of May this year.. lower elevation that is and vowed that we would come back several times this year. Sad.. we have not pulled it off once yet! But after reading your report it is seriously back on the table for maybe late September or early October.

MANY years ago we rode mountain bikes around the whole loop. It was a definite hoot and a lung cleaning exercise.. with the first day spent in the pain locker all the way up. Spent the first night at Fish Lake and then finished it up the next day. To bad the state of my body these days would never allow it again.. as I would do it in a heartbeat.. what a trip!

I realize this is a little off base since it does not have anything to do with a camper.. but it does have to do with exploring the Steens. I was going to attach some photos from my last trip there when we had our Range Rover. But I need to resize them and I don't have access to my other computer right now. So for anyone who is interested I will offer a link to my website. I am in NO WAY trying to sell myself or my services.. I just TRULY want to share what the Steens, Alvord and local area look like in early winter, late fall.

www.emeraldlight.com

The home page is the on the surface of the Alvord during this trip.

Under "Walkabout" then "Winter View" .. frames 3,4,5 & 6 is on the road to the top of the Steens in mid November. We made it to the top but could not see a thing and were driving in about a foot of snow by the time we decided to head down.. sort of got carried and forgot to get back in the Rover and leave. We could hardly find our way back down even following our tracks since it was borderline whiteout conditions. I can can attach that photo. Sort of reminds me of what you were up to in New Mexico DD during your trip earlier this year!

DirtyDog.. thanks for making the trip and then consequently motivating me vicariously to get focused and make the trip before this year is out!
 

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Hey Zonker - yeah I rode that loop too about 10 years ago. It snowed on us at the top I don't think I've ever been so cold. I checked your photos there - very nice. That looks about like the conditions on our bike ride :)
 
Dirty Dog:

Thems some nice photos and great place to visit. Was up there last fall. Cold, windy, rainy with lots of sheep all over. I did the loop and liked the other half of the steens. Didn't make it to Hart Refuge, but did like the Alvord desert. Really cool to see both extremes from both sides!

Hurray. Now, to plan a trip to the refuge.....

Dave in Seattle
 
So DD.. you know of what the summit is like when the weather gets nasty! We had a pretty treacherous trip down as we literally could not see the road unless I hung my eyeballs out the window and looked about 5 feet in front of the bumper. I hope your trip down on mountain bikes was not quite that bad.. as you would have already been frozen to death and then dealing with decending! Did you ride the complete loop in one day? If you did.. remind me to never ride bikes with you as you would turn my lungs inside out and it would that I buy the beer when we meet up sometime!

Great trip report and definitely great photos! I apologize if it appeared that I was trying to hijack your thread.. definitely was not the intent.
 
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