Sure Power 1314

[SLOJET]

Hey quick question.

I have a 01 Hawk I just picked up and it has an optima blue top under the bench. I would like to charge it off the trucks system while in transit. I understand the preferred method is the Sure Power 1314. Problem is that it's rated for 100amp loads. My Dodge has a 136 amp alternator. Do I need to go with the 200amp version of the 1314 to be safe or am I never going to draw that much load across the separator? I can't see pulling that many amps unless I had a dead battery, ground fault, or something like this, correct?

What's the best way to do this? I've read through all the battery post but it all gets kind of confusing with all the custom systems out there.

Thanks,
Dave


(I'm no electrical whiz so bear with me if I'm way off base here)

 

[SLOJET]

Anybody? SurePower says I need a 200A, FWC says I can make due with a 100A. Anybody blown one of these things with a high output alternator?

 

[camelracer]

The SurePower separator will never see the max alternator amperage. There is a 30 amp breaker in the circuit to protect the camper wiring. I think that even with a dead camper battery the battery's internal resistance will limit the current draw.

 

[SLOJET]

The SurePower separator will never see the max alternator amperage. There is a 30 amp breaker in the circuit to protect the camper wiring. I think that even with a dead camper battery the battery's internal resistance will limit the current draw.


That's along the lines of what I was thinking. I could also just put a 50amp fuse in the line upstream of the separator, I suppose? I just had this vision of cooking the first one and having to pay for second one....that would be an expensive experiment.

Thanks

 

[pods8]

That's along the lines of what I was thinking. I could also just put a 50amp fuse in the line upstream of the separator, I suppose? I just had this vision of cooking the first one and having to pay for second one....that would be an expensive experiment.

Thanks


Yeah, just put a thermal breaker (I'd use that instead of a fuse) ahead of the separator for piece of mind. The reality is your battery shouldn't pull that much and even if it tried the wiring and battery resistance would likely limit things as mentioned.

 

[SLOJET]

Yeah, just put a thermal breaker (I'd use that instead of a fuse) ahead of the separator for piece of mind. The reality is your battery shouldn't pull that much and even if it tried the wiring and battery resistance would likely limit things as mentioned.


Thanks, that makes me more comfortable with the whole program.

 

[AK Nomad]

I've got the same alternator and never had a problem in thousands of miles. I've got a 30A fuse. If you use a 50A fuse, you should upgrade the wiring accordingly. Even when my battery was drained (dead) after leaving the fridge on DC (accidently) I fired up and drove down the road with no problems. You could always get an ammeter and watch what's going on, but like others, I doubt you'll come close to seeing the full alt amperage going to the camper batt.

 

[SLOJET]

I've got the same alternator and never had a problem in thousands of miles. I've got a 30A fuse. If you use a 50A fuse, you should upgrade the wiring accordingly. Even when my battery was drained (dead) after leaving the fridge on DC (accidently) I fired up and drove down the road with no problems. You could always get an ammeter and watch what's going on, but like others, I doubt you'll come close to seeing the full alt amperage going to the camper batt.


Thanks, I ordered one last night!