Surepower 12023A

[natjwest]

I just discovered that my Chevy 2500 diesel (two starting batteries) has a Surepower 12023A wired in place under the hood. As near as I can tell, it goes to the battery, the alternator, the fuse panel with an ignition-lit fuse, and then to the 7-prong plug on the bumper.

Until this discovery, I had planned to buy and use a 1314, since I understand it. But I've checked out Surepower's somewhat-lacking website and can't really figure out what the difference is between the two in practical day-to-day use.

Here is the 12023A: http://www.surepower.com/isolator.html If you click "Application Guide" and "Printable Brochure" there is more information there. Can anyone tell me how these two (12023A and 1314) compare?

 

[pods8]

1314 is a "separator" and the 12023A is an "isolator". The separator is basically an on/off switch that connects things up when the alternator is charging (aka the engine is running), when this happens the batteries see each other and if one is heavily discharged and the other is full there will be a big rush of current between the two as they try to equalize which is bad. The isolator takes input and sends it in different directions (two in your case) and each of those legs only flow in one direction (think check valve) thus two batteries wouldn't see each other at all which is better over a separator.

Between those two technologies I like the protection the isolator offers in keeping the batteries independent. However isolators can have some voltage drop across them so that can be a negative depending on how much and if its detrimental at all in your application.

 

[natjwest]

Great explanation pods, timely and concise both technically and practically, thank you.

That being said, can you offer more details about "voltage drop across them". Which "them"? How would that voltage drop manifest? Would it show up as less voltage being supplied to the batteries by the alternator since the alternator's juice has to go through the isolator? I don't currently have any problems with the system keeping my truck batteries charged.

 

[EdoHart]

To expound on Pods8 reply, an isolator won't feed electrical energy from the secondary battery to the primary battery. If the primary battery is your engines's starting battery, and if it doesn't have enough energy to crank your engine, you won't be able to start your truck, unless you swap batteries.

I also prefer the isolator technology, however, there are some manufacturers, who make a hybrid isolator/combiner. I went with a Hellroaring unit myself just for that functionality, but my truck didn't come with an isolator or combiner.

Being that the 12023A is a solid state unit, I wouldn't expect much voltage drop, but if there were any, I would expect it at the secondary battery's positive terminal.

 

[pods8]

Great explanation pods, timely and concise both technically and practically, thank you.

That being said, can you offer more details about "voltage drop across them". Which "them"? How would that voltage drop manifest? Would it show up as less voltage being supplied to the batteries by the alternator since the alternator's juice has to go through the isolator? I don't currently have any problems with the system keeping my truck batteries charged.


"Them" is isolators. They use diodes and it costs some voltage, can't recall how much off the top of my head since its been while since I read up heavily on them when I was researching for my system. When the voltage goes through the isolator a bit is lost, so yes the batteries would see a lower number than the voltage leaving the alt. I was just mentioning that point for knowledge, your factory system is likely set up to compensate for the drop by putting out a bit higher voltage from the alt than the starter batteries need.

Whether or not that is the voltage you want for your axillary batteries is a different story and one you can put your own weight towards. Deep cycles, depending on brand/type, like to charge differently than starting batteries.

Practically speaking though since you already have that system for free, if you are planning to get an auxiliary battery, I'd connect it up (make sure it came with a decent wire gauge from the factory to the 7 pin) and see what kind of voltage readings you're getting out of the system. You're not really out anything at that point and from there you can decide where you want to go with things if a change is desired.