Tacoma bed cleat on Yakima tracks

[john cotterman]

I am still outfitting my new Fleet shell in advance of a trip out West (Dakotas, Wyoming, Colorado) in a couple of weeks. At first I wasn't going to use the Yakima tracks that came preinstalled, but predictably I'm finding that I want to take more stuff than I have room for. I have the idea to put just a few items -- foldup chairs, foldup aluminum table, small under-the-awning plastic carpet -- into a small cargo bag and attach it (somehow) to the tracks. The somehow solution I came up with is to take the Tacoma bed cleats and slide them into the tracks, giving me four points to attach the bag to.

I have a slight concern because the flat bottom bolt of the cleat slides nicely into the Yakima track, but maybe too nicely in that it seems like the width of the bolt doesn't fully fill the width of the track slot -- thus maybe allowing them to work loose with miles of high speed driving and off road bumping.

So here's the question. The flat bolt bottom measures 9/16th inch width. Can anyone with standard Yakima towers please look at their slide in bolt head and measure it for me? Maybe it really is the same 9/16th and I'm worrying for no reason. More likely it is 5/8 or great. Dunno.

I'm just trying to avoid spending $200 to get the official Yakima towers. I'm not even planning to get cross bars, just want something to attach securely to the tracks at 4 points allowing me to tie the cargo bag on.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Take a peek at the Thule TK 1 track nuts. They work nicely in the Yakima tracks, and you don't have to remove the rack end caps (potential to start a leak). I use them on my Yakima system.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-123350.html

 

[takesiteasy]

Interesting idea- hadn't occurred to me. I would share your worry about them working loose since they aren't designed for that application. Periodic checking would alleviate that worry. You could try them out unloaded for a while and see if they loosen up. If they work- cool!

You might also check Craigslist. I got most of my Yakima parts that way at much below retail cost. All you really need is the towers- you can use aluminum pipe for the crossbars.

 

[nikonron]

I would say that you are going to dent that aluminum roof up pretty good, it's very tender. Pea sized hail will dent it. Ron

 

[john cotterman]

So Ron, can you elaborate on your concern about the denting of the roof? Are you saying that the 4WC roof is much more tender than any truck roof? I've received dents from hail on my truck, too. I would place a pad under the roof bag for both slippage control and additional padding. Also I conceive of packing the bag so the carpet would be on the bottom (closest to the roof) further shielding the tender roof from the harder, sharper corners of the chairs and tables.

Maybe bouncing of the bag onto the roof is not a wise idea. I guess that's why folks get the full $$$ yakima system to keep everything elevated off the roof.

 

[Power Wagon]

Leave the carpet. You won't miss it. Put a grass mat type cover on your step to help control the dirt tracking.
Is it possible to carry the chairs in the cab of the truck ?
I camp from a motorcycle, have to go light. It is truly amazing how much you can live without. If I carry an item an it doesn't get used ... it never goes again

 

[Power Wagon]

Leave the carpet. You won't miss it. Put a grass mat type cover on your step to help control the dirt tracking.
Is it possible to carry the chairs in the cab of the truck ?
I camp from a motorcycle, have to go light. It is truly amazing how much you can live without. If I carry an item an it doesn't get used ... it never goes again

 

[nikonron]

The roof is thin aluminum where as a truck roof is steel. I wouldn't take the chance of something being pushed into it or bouncing on it with everyt bump you hit. I can also be torn. Ron

 

[drumwood]

At rack attack in Portland they sold me the Yakima slide-in flat nuts for one dollar apiece.
https://www.rackattack.com/info/stores/portland/

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

At rack attack in Portland they sold me the Yakima slide-in flat nuts for one dollar apiece. https://www.rackattack.com/info/stores/portland/

TK 1 nuts are the same price at RA.

 

[BFH4N]

You could make your own "nuts" for the Yakima track. It's what I did to mount solar collectors on my Fleet. I cut them from 1/8" x 3/4" 303 stainless bar (from McMaster-Carr) and threaded holes in them. The Yakima nuts are about 3/4" square but I made mine longer - 3" x 3/4" - to increase the grip area. After you remove the plastic knobs and the bolts from the Tacoma cleats, a 1/4" bolt will fit nicely in the D-shaped hole, so thread 1/4-28 holes in your nuts and mount the cleats to the track with 1/4-28 bolts. (Maybe with some nice thick washers between the bolt heads and the plastic.)

Of course, once you start thinking about making nuts for the Yakima tracks, you realize that you can mount anything that way. It wouldn't have to be Tacoma cleats. How about cast eyebolts? Or how about a long nut with 2 holes to mount a 2-hole pipe strap? That would also work to mount round cross bars (pipes), if that would help. The possiblities are endless...

- Bernard

 

[WestCoast]

Take a peek at the Thule TK 1 track nuts. They work nicely in the Yakima tracks, and you don't have to remove the rack end caps (potential to start a leak). I use them on my Yakima system.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-123350.html

How can you get these into the yak tracks without removing the end caps? I've got a kink in my passenger side rail about 3' from the back and I want to be able to move the cross bar to the end but can't because I don't have a nut behind the kink. I've been reluctant to take the end cap off due to leak potential.
Thanks!

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

How can you get these into the yak tracks without removing the end caps? I've got a kink in my passenger side rail about 3' from the back and I want to be able to move the cross bar to the end but can't because I don't have a nut behind the kink. I've been reluctant to take the end cap off due to leak potential.
Thanks!

Look at the shape of the nut. It's inserted on a diagonal, then rotates as it is tightened down. They work nicely!

 

[BFH4N]

The OEM nuts are square, so I don't think you can put them into the track without taking off the end cap. But I don't think it's a big deal, either. It's just one screw. Put a lot of sealant around the hole and around the screw head when you put it back. I used 3M 4000UV, but silicone rubber should work. I'd work from the rear end of the track, if possible, where there is less chance of wind-driven rain getting in under the end cap.

- Bernard