Hey Folks, I've decided I really want the convenience of a fridge, especially with the lack of block ice for sale on the road lately. For those that have done this (if anyone), can you please comment on the install process. I would like to know if i will need to cut out more of the cabinetry after I remove the icebox to install the smallest fridge FWC includes with the new campers (the Isotherm 65l), and whether a vent to the outside of the camper is needed (I don't think i would be comfortable cutting an opening in the side of my camper). I have a 2015 Hawk with front dinette, 165W solar and one battery. I think the camper was pre-wired for the fridge, so that part will be easy. I'm thinking I will need the second battery but that's no big deal. My other consideration is getting something like an ARB top load fridge and mount it on a slider in the old icebox location., but if the front load option isn't too difficult I'm sure that would look nicer and be more convenient. Thanks in advance for your input!
Time to Ditch the Icebox
- Thread starter dharte
- Start date
PaulT
Need gumbo
If you have room in your cab, one of the Arb fridge/freezer units could be used to freeze blue ice containers and/or waterbottles to use in your icebox without modifying your camper. If it doesn't work out that way, you still can mount the ARB in the camper to replace the icebox.
Paul
Paul
slomo
Member
I pulled out the ice box and put the largest Isotherm in, 120 I believe. It dropped right in. Once the ice box is out you can see where to cut the skin and install two vents bought from 4WD. I also wired in a fan and button for it. Love having all the room. FWIW there is an ac outlet hidden in little cupboard next to the fridge. Biggest issue was the 12vdc wires weren't hot and I couldn't see 2 wires unattached at the fuze block so I ran new 12vdc wires from the fuze block around the cabinets to the fridge. I is wonderful having a huge fridge. I even put canned goods in sometimes if I worry they might freeze in the winter. I put a digital thermometer in that gives me freezer and main cabinet temps.
billharr
Senior Member
What slomo said you will see where you need to put the vent when you pull out your icebox. I put in a CF when I did my build of a shell to a side dinette. Cutting the hole not hard to do. I drilled very small holes from the inside when I did every one of my holes. Used a fine blade oscillating saw just follow the line between the holes.
If you look at the picture below you will see two small stainless screw heads. They are covering two of those very small holes. I did not want to cover the Hawk decal.
You wi
You only need one vent for the compressor fridge. I was going to try no vent but was told my FWC that they tried and it does need a vent. I would add a couple of fans when you are doing the install. I added mine later and now have two. Wired to run when the fridge runs and I added an inline button thermostat so they do not run until the area gets hot.
If you look at the picture below you will see two small stainless screw heads. They are covering two of those very small holes. I did not want to cover the Hawk decal.
You wi
You only need one vent for the compressor fridge. I was going to try no vent but was told my FWC that they tried and it does need a vent. I would add a couple of fans when you are doing the install. I added mine later and now have two. Wired to run when the fridge runs and I added an inline button thermostat so they do not run until the area gets hot.
If you don't want to cut into the side of the camper you can do like boats do and internally vent. Section 4.1 of Isotherm's installation instructions: https://www.defender.com/pdf/Cruise42-130_Install_Operate.pdfdharte said:
Either way you need to at least supply the minimum ventilation specified, preferrably low and high. An exhaust fan helps in hot weather to pull out the hot air.
In your experience is the Isotherm worth the premium cost?slomo said:
billharr
Senior Member
I have not had any issue with rain getting in. I am sure driving some must but not a problem. Almost all FWC and ATC camper have vents.
I am considering the new Norcold NR740BB (about $700) model. It has an improved compressor and is the only model that is self venting through the bottom front panel. Does anyone out there have this model? The only thing i don't like about it is that it draws 3.5 amps vs 2.6 for the Isotherm. With two batteries and solar, I think it will be fine.
I put in a 130L TruckFridge. Same as the Isotherm, but cheaper here in Canada. I vented inside and out. The compressor/cooling fins are at the top/right/back when looking at the fridge from the open door as you would if it were mounted in the camper.
The whole compressor area is about 8" on a side, so I didn't see a need to put in a big outside vent. In fact, I bought a standard stainless steel house "return air" vent cover for cheap, cut it in half, and used that for the outside vent cover. Small, but effective. No rain gets in as far as I can tell.
I also vented inside, and mounted a big 6" CPU fan inside to pull air over the cooling fins. The air path from outside the camper to inside the camper can't be more than 6", so the cooling is very effective.
This pic shows where that inside vent is.
The whole compressor area is about 8" on a side, so I didn't see a need to put in a big outside vent. In fact, I bought a standard stainless steel house "return air" vent cover for cheap, cut it in half, and used that for the outside vent cover. Small, but effective. No rain gets in as far as I can tell.
I also vented inside, and mounted a big 6" CPU fan inside to pull air over the cooling fins. The air path from outside the camper to inside the camper can't be more than 6", so the cooling is very effective.
This pic shows where that inside vent is.
I eliminated the Norcold from consideration because of the arrangement of the condenser. Basically a heater under the fridge. The Engle SR70F has an internal vent out the top and the condenser vertical in the back. Or it wouldn't be hard to build internal venting into your cabinet.
I prefer outside venting because in the summer the interior of my Grandby is hotter than the outside air when in sun; making an inside vented refrigerator work harder. I have seen no evidence of water intrusion through my refrigerator vents, although I do get a lot of dust in there.
Amp numbers don't tell you much. What you want is watts (or amps) used in a day; Isotherm quotes 380W/24 hrs at some standard temperature (23ºC?).
I prefer outside venting because in the summer the interior of my Grandby is hotter than the outside air when in sun; making an inside vented refrigerator work harder. I have seen no evidence of water intrusion through my refrigerator vents, although I do get a lot of dust in there.
Amp numbers don't tell you much. What you want is watts (or amps) used in a day; Isotherm quotes 380W/24 hrs at some standard temperature (23ºC?).
I installed the Norcold fridge today. The only time consuming step was fabricating a trim piece (plywood) because the cabinet opening for the icebox was wider than the fridge by a couple of inches. I also installed dual 6v batteries to replace the single 12v. I'm curious to see what happens with power/battery drain on my next trip coming up in a couple of weeks. I'm optimistic the small fridge won't tax the 210 amp-hour battery power I now have (along with the 160w solar).
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