Torklift or Happijac for a 10 foot Alaskan Cabover

[DAS]

I've seen debates on Torklift vs Happijac tiedowns in general, but wanted to know what experience people had with Alaskans in specific. I'm looking at putting an Alaskan 10 foot cabover on a crewcab RAM 3500. Suggestions appreciated .. Dale

 

[snuffy]

i had a nco 8ft. in the late 80s....it was on a f250 i was told by po just bolt it on , worked for me but if you were going to remove often i would go with torklift i used them for years with a Northstar camper and never had any problems just my 2$

 

[dcsparky]

I have the hapijack installed by the factory. It bolts through the front wall of the bed. The rear attaches to the bumper. It has a very low profile when the camper is not on. You also don't have the problem with road salts rusting the tie down brackets especially if you drive in the Northeast.

 

[ACEBLACKDOG]

newbie,
i have a northstar so i can not be alaskan specific
BUT
torklift would be my advice...easy on and off especially w/ fastguns... ...the important factor is being attached to the frame...a very important factor if you will be off-roading... ...IMHO --the bed and bumpers were not made to standup to the torque that goes w/ a camper...
enjoy your rig...
ace

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

DAS, one more vote for frame mounted tie downs! We have a Torklift setup for when we use the hard side. Our truck manufacture recommends not using anything that mounts to the bed.

 

[Bigfoot]

Another vote for Torklifts. The Alaskan is a heavy popup that can bend bumper and bed mounts. The newer Torklift Talon frame-mounted tiedowns are powder-coated aluminum that resist corrosion. Combine them with FastGun turnbuckles for the best bed mounting available.

 

[huskyrunnr]

How do you use the turnbuckles without spreading the door opening? Is it enough to shim between the top of the truck bed walls and the bottom of the overhanging sides of the camper? Do you not crank much on the turnbuckles?

 

[dcsparky]

The front has springs for movement. The rear tie down don't do much work and you just snug them.

 

[verynice]

I thought the torklifts were those ones that hang down and out from the frame, right in harms way if you're 4-wheeling?

 

[snuffy]

nope , unless your offroad by mistake..lol.

 

[verynice]

 

[wcj]

hapijac on an 8 foot cab over with lots of off-road miles. We did the white rim trail a couple of years ago and most local trips involve off road miles. I have never seen any problems with the hapijac mounts. If I ran a big hard side , then torklift would be the way to go. When I asked Alaskan a few years ago they recommended happijac.

 

[Freebird]

This is one of many RV subjects where there is more brand loyalty than logic in the forums on quite a few posts.
I believe either one will work well, but spend time evaluating how you are going to use your truck, and then your truck with the camper on it. The roads or trails you intend to use it on, as mentioned above, the winter road treatments that are used in the area you will do winter travel in (if). The weight of the camper, too. Watch the videos on Torklifts. Unfortunately, Happyjac is not as good at self promotion, so a real scarcity of videos related to their tiedowns.
Also pay attention to the fuel filler flap, and where each brand of tie down places the turnbuckle. The truck & camper (mated) set up I just bought has the turnbuckle interfering with fueling (Torklifts). I will address that issue. Not sure how yet.
My Alaskan has the Happyjac tie down brackets. That has worked well for me, but that is based on my camper, my truck, and my usage.
Research it thoroughly for yourself, no one else can give you the "final answer"...,,,

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

<snip>

The truck & camper (mated) set up I just bought has the turnbuckle interfering with fueling (Torklifts). I will address that issue. Not sure how yet.

<snip>

Torklift makes a plate that bolts to the arm that attaches to the frame to help with this issue. On my truck, that moved the tie down far enough to clear the fuel door. You could probably make one to give you the clearance you need if you find that the stock product doesn't provide enough clearance.

 

[Freebird]

Thx, Sagebrush. I'll put that in the mix of possible solutions.
I'm going to start by moving the camper forward in the bed about 3 inches. It looks like I can move it that far forward before risking the cab clearance lights. If that doesn't solve it, likely I'll use your idea.
I'm also (mildly) considering a front Happyjac tiedown bracket. I would like to get rid of the Torklifts front frame mounted bracket. It is lower than I like, but with duals, and my "new" TALL camper, I probably won't be doing as much off pavemen/trail travel. :-(

 

[Rusty]

keep in mind guys....torque lifts are designed to tie the camper to the truck so tight that you could roll the unit over and not lose the camper....that's one of their advertising points ......

unfortunately...

Alaskans tiedown point is a thin piece of 1/2 inch plywood which is nailed to the frame with a few 7 penny nails.....no where near enough strength to "torque" the camper down...even with the happijacks...you can put too much pressure on the frame of the camper....these were designed to be bolted down to the bed...long before happi jacks or torque lifts were even a thought.

I've had happijacks for well over 15 years with derringers...and I keep them loose...they're for retaining the camper not tightening it to the frame of the truck.....and it doesn't move around...I've got little anti-skid strips on the bottom

Many newer campers are designed structurally to be secured...Tight...to the bed.....and you can remove them, use them while removed and reinstall when you get ready to go....not Alaskans...

Remember...they are nearly antiques...notice the "nearly"...ours has been in the family for 45 years...