Truck rolled back, major damage and lots of questions

[srileo]

So, I have decided to have Deaver put in stiffer leaf springs for me. It is a 4 week wait, but i think it is the right thing to do given the fact that the camper is on the truck 100% of the time.

Further question: I want to see if it is worthwhile installing an external tiedown system such as Torklift or Happijac? The camper slipping out of the in-bed hooks and almost crashing to the ground has been pretty scary. I now want to see if the above options are better?
They are pricey - i think its around $800 or more installed with turbuckles. However, I wonder if you guys think that an in-bed system is just fine with better turnbuckles that are springloaded and have an eyelet or some such more robust solution? I simply do not want to go back to the stock aluminum turnbuckle.
I understand that with torklift/happijacs are for much larger campers and that the angle of the connection between camper hook and torklift really matters.

 

[DesertDave]

I had Frame-mounted tiedown with fastguns on my existing truck with the prior camper. They were a very fast and easy way to attach the camper to the truck, and quick to remove. This made the loading and unloading process a lot easier, since I did it before and after every trip.

I used the factory in-bed tie downs on my FWC, since I will rarely remove it. I sold the fastguns, and use the rear frame tiedowns sometimes to secure stuff (firewood) when I carry it on a rear receiver rack.

I would think using closed-eye ends, or carabiners, to attach the turnbuckles would solve the issue that concerns you.

 

[srileo]

DesertDave, I a thinking of a turnbuckle like this one. No hook. The question is whether the bolt would be theoretically strong enough as a hook....?

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

That looks like Harken sailboat hardware, and it probably would withstand more stress than the stock turnbuckles. I'd check specs to be sure. The ability to pin/cotter the bolt is a plus.

 

[CALIcamperdad]

I race sailboats. No doubt the rigging hardware easily out rates the open hook fairly low quality metal stuff Ive seen sold as Camper tie downs. My 20ft racing boat 1300lbs total in down wind mode had a $6000 carbon mast, $2000 Spinnaker and $1800 main all remaining intact under extreme loads with harken turnbuckles holding the whole mess up. The rigging ratings in the 8000lbs. Per and we had four mains and one forestay. Pretty sure what you can get at Westmarine would far exceed the FWC need. On the 34 foot 12,000lb racer cruiser our rated working loads on the halyards was 18,000lbs. We mangled the 15,000lb spinaker halyards in the SF to Oahu PAC cup. Been running 18,000lb rated halyards since.

 

[srileo]

Wow, the westmarine stuff is expensive! You boat guys are rich or what? ;-)
I found these on amazon. Steel, 3500lb load limit. $17 each.

http://www.amazon.com/Indusco-93900241-Galvanized-Turnbuckle-Threaded/dp/B00CFTVLPC/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31oBW5aT1rL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0QVXKKNMWS7SSPXS4JWDhttp://www.amazon.com/Indusco-93900241-Galvanized-Turnbuckle-Threaded/dp/B00CFTVLPC/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31oBW5aT1rL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0QVXKKNMWS7SSPXS4JWD

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I would get bolts/nuts that would take a cotter pin...

 

[PaulT]

Wow, the westmarine stuff is expensive! You boat guys are rich or what? ;-)
I found these on amazon. Steel, 3500lb load limit. $17 each.

Airplane guys, sailboat guys, motorhome guys, travel trailer guys, pickup camper guys. Something like that order.

It all depends on priorities. ( and bank account )

Paul

 

[ski3pin]

I would get bolts/nuts that would take a cotter pin...

Or use a distorted-thread lock nut like the shear pins in my snowblower

Another source of turnbuckles -

McMaster-Carr

 

[BillM]

And another source:

https://www.fastenal.com/products;jsessionid=A280175BBDDFD3F5612261B82FEC6900.fcomjvm02?term=turnbuckle&searchMode=

 

[snuffy]

you might want to check out if you can install these first without standing on your head..

 

[tree]

wow, I just seen this. glad you or anybody else got hurt. I could not imagine having a truck camper without jacks. im taking my off and leave at home. but nice to have. I built a 4 foot by 7 foot dolly to rest the camper on. with 900lb 8 inch casters. fits in the garage. but I camp in the desert once a month. so leaving it on might happen. I heard some rv rental places rent jacks. but have not seen first hand.

 

[srileo]

wow, I just seen this. glad you or anybody else got hurt. I could not imagine having a truck camper without jacks. im taking my off and leave at home. but nice to have. I built a 4 foot by 7 foot dolly to rest the camper on. with 900lb 8 inch casters. fits in the garage. but I camp in the desert once a month. so leaving it on might happen. I heard some rv rental places rent jacks. but have not seen first hand.

Glad to be an example for others to learn from

I am curious about your dolly. Do you have any photos of it? I was thinking of building a HarborFrieght folding trailer with a big castor wheel in the front to serve as a dolly, but am not sure how easy it is to push around...

 

[tree]

I will take some pics tomorrow. And post them. And a cost of materials.

 

[ntsqd]

I would get bolts/nuts that would take a cotter pin...

Agree, for those I'd use clevis pins rather than prevailing-torque (all metal, aka "stover nuts") locknuts: http://www.mcmaster.com/#clevis-pins/=10phxt2

For the eyebolts use forged, rather than formed, like these: http://www.mcmaster.com/#eyebolts/=10pi1cg

With prevailing-torque lock nuts. If you want belt & suspenders use a regular nut first, then add the locknut as a jam nut.
Prevailing-torque flanged locknuts: http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=10pi3h6

 

[tree]

Glad to be an example for others to learn from

I am curious about your dolly. Do you have any photos of it? I was thinking of building a HarborFrieght folding trailer with a big castor wheel in the front to serve as a dolly, but am not sure how easy it is to push around...

 

[srileo]

So, 2.5 months after the accident, i went to Sacramento to pick up my repaired truck. Progressive and the autobody place has been awesome to deal with and they were kind enough to store the truck for me while i was off to India for a while. I took advantage of the replacement suspension they offered and ordered new heavier rate Deaver springs and had them on the truck. Insurance replaced the truck bed and painted it up, new air bag, fresh alignment.

So I went to pick it up. The truck looked great, all nice and clean and shiny, started up with that familiar growl. Took it for a drive - everything felt good, except there was a whine/rattle that i noticed under power. I pulled over and looked around the cab to see if there was something loose. Sure enough, there was a bolt jammed on the floor under some plastic. A big one. Just one. Somewhat miffed, i started looking under the truck and found this to my utter consternation.

The drive shaft had not been hooked up! It had been unhooked for the towing, and never reconnected. The bolt i found earlier in the cab was from that driveshaft. And it was held up with baling wire!
Needless to say the service manager was quite embarrassed when I showed him the situation. He promised to overnight the bolts from where ever needed and have the truck ready for me. That was a 5 hour round trip for nothing and I just came back home in a foul mood.

I am a bit irritated at this, and also wonder what other damage could have occured that these guys havent seen down there. I am thinking of calling up progressive and letting them know about this carelessness. Also wanting to see if they will send an independent mechanic out there to inspect everything and vouch for no further damage. I did see some oily spots near the driveline housing that are worrying me.

Anyway, let me know what you guys would do in this situation...

 

[PaulT]

An inspection by an independent certified mechanic would seem to be in order. It's the safety of you and your family at stake.

Paul

 

[DesertDave]

I think contacting the insurer and explaining your concerns is a good idea. It would possibly make it so they would pay for additional work or inspections, as well as provide a data point about that shop, with the insurer.

This reminds me of several such things I encountered when having vehicles serviced by others, causing me to do my own work. Material for another thread sometime.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

That looks like the front shaft?
I would defiantly contact the insurance co. All the work should be guaranteed.
and fixed to your satisfaction. No ifs,and,or,buts!!!
It's a good thing the driveshaft didn't fall to the road.
Good luck and stay on top of them.
Frank

PS Not letting the body shop off the hook,but looking at your picture and at my Tundra transfer case/transmission
I can see where it could be overlooked.The front coupling is somewhat hidden. BUT they should have caught it.