Truck rolled back, major damage and lots of questions

Spoke to insurance and they got in touch with the shop (which has ordered the missing bolts for the shafts). I asked for an independent inspection of the complete work, and insurance waffled around a bit, but I held my ground citing specific instances and also the risk involved. She said she would speak to her manager and see what she can do. I think they will have it driven to a nearby facility (after the font shaft has been put together) and have them go over it.

Thanks for the advise guys. I have an appt this monday with FWC to put my camper back on. I figured whatever else might happen, it wont hurt with the camper in the bed.
 
I don't know about your insurance company, but USAA guarantees its repairs, so it would seem in their best interest to ensure it was done right the first time. Otherwise, they may end up paying for additional and costly repairs.
If they wont pay to have it looked over it might be worth getting it done yourself. It's surprising the shop didn't put it on a lift when it first came in to do a thorough inspection. I'm curious, did someone from the shop also act as the adjuster for the estimate, or did the insurance company do it?

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
That is a first class screw up. I had no idea they unhooked drive shafts when towing but I fix computers. The folks at the repair facility should have known this and checked it. I would be afraid of anything they "repaired" on the vehicle.... Hope this works out for you. Love the dolly :)
 
Sirileo, Wow, this ALL sucks, then another screw up. But . . .

The body shop didn't hook up the drive shaft that the tow truck driver removed? The body shop replaced the bed, which probably involved under-truck work, but at the opposite end of the truck (pic appears to be front drive shaft). And, that shaft was kind-of in its right place, unless somebody rolled up there and looked. They probably never had the truck on a lift, I wouldn't really blame them. Now, if the body shop did the suspension work, I'd be a bit more upset.

I'm a bit confused who disconnected it when. Your original post had a picture of the truck on a flat bed rig, in which case disconnecting the shaft wasn't necessary. So, I'm thinking maybe the tow truck that retrieved it from "down the hillside" had to use a cable to pull the truck out, did they remove it? In this case, it appears to be a part-time 4WD truck, otherwise that shaft would have been launched out from under the truck as soon as it was moved under power. That could have been disastrous.

Anyway, stuff happens. The TT driver might have removed both ends and put the shaft in the truck. Or leave a note on the steering wheel. At least he thought about removing it (Was it really necessary to disconnect it on this truck?). I just can't see blaming the body shop for something that wasn't their job.

HJ - The drive shaft(s) need to be removed when towing an all-wheel-drive or full-time four wheel drive vehicle with a standard hook/sling truck, or when flat-towing. Other vehicles might need the shaft removed if towing over a manufacturer-specified distance. All of this is to prevent transmission damage due to lack of lubrication. Most modern transmissions have only a front oil pump, years ago autos also had a rear pump, which would lube the tranny if the drive shaft is spinning. Your owners manual can tell you for your auto/truck. The best way to handle this is to use a flat bed tow truck.
 
I agree it was probably a default disconnect by the tow company because new trucks have abandoned locking hubs and axle disconnects. Titan front axle is always turning if the truck is moving. I had one.

When in doubt I usually disconnect driveshafts on anything I tow. Not a TT driver. Just buy junk trucks and fix them up.LOL

The body shop was just interested in what they had to do. Rear end damage. So they probably just missed it. Let's face it. In most shops the experienced guy does the once over. Then after that it's just grunts who do a lot of the grunt work. They just do what they are told.

I wouldn't get too worked up over it. Climb under the truck and look around for anything obvious. Keep an eye on the drive for fluid leaks. And listen for noises when you drive. Nothing obvious comes up you are probably fine.
 
When the truck was pulled out from the hillside, no one disconnected the driveshaft. The truck was put on a flatbed and driven off. It was when my truck was moved from the yard to the body shop that the driveshaft was disconnected coz that was a 2 hour drive to sacramento. It was not on a flatbed.


wuck said:
Sirileo, Wow, this ALL sucks, then another screw up. But . . .

The body shop didn't hook up the drive shaft that the tow truck driver removed? The body shop replaced the bed, which probably involved under-truck work, but at the opposite end of the truck (pic appears to be front drive shaft). And, that shaft was kind-of in its right place, unless somebody rolled up there and looked. They probably never had the truck on a lift, I wouldn't really blame them. Now, if the body shop did the suspension work, I'd be a bit more upset.

I'm a bit confused who disconnected it when. Your original post had a picture of the truck on a flat bed rig, in which case disconnecting the shaft wasn't necessary. So, I'm thinking maybe the tow truck that retrieved it from "down the hillside" had to use a cable to pull the truck out, did they remove it? In this case, it appears to be a part-time 4WD truck, otherwise that shaft would have been launched out from under the truck as soon as it was moved under power. That could have been disastrous.

Anyway, stuff happens. The TT driver might have removed both ends and put the shaft in the truck. Or leave a note on the steering wheel. At least he thought about removing it (Was it really necessary to disconnect it on this truck?). I just can't see blaming the body shop for something that wasn't their job.

HJ - The drive shaft(s) need to be removed when towing an all-wheel-drive or full-time four wheel drive vehicle with a standard hook/sling truck, or when flat-towing. Other vehicles might need the shaft removed if towing over a manufacturer-specified distance. All of this is to prevent transmission damage due to lack of lubrication. Most modern transmissions have only a front oil pump, years ago autos also had a rear pump, which would lube the tranny if the drive shaft is spinning. Your owners manual can tell you for your auto/truck. The best way to handle this is to use a flat bed tow truck.
Click to expand...
 
Tomorrow (friday) I pick up the truck and we put the camper on it and i drive home :)

So the body shop guy was genuinely apologetic. He did a thorough once over and then after insurance leaned on him, he had the truck taken to another shop near by and they checked over the work thoroughly and have the paperwork to prove it. So, all should be good now.

Looking forward to getting back into my truck with the Deaver suspension. Hoping its not too stiff!
 
So I picked up the truck and camper this weekend. The truck seemed like the day i bought it. The stiff Deaver suspension was a great match once the camper was on. FWC put on the camper. The door was replaced, the trimlines around the roof were replaced. The scratches were minor. First thing on my list now is to get different turnbuckles. I definitely dont want to rely on the stock turnbuckles ever again.

IMAG0766-M.jpg


IMAG0767-M.jpg


Thank you all for the advise and concern. I hope to take her out camping this weekend. Looking forward to enjoying my toys more now that I brought them back from the dead.
 
I'm happy that your vehicle and camper were fixed. I'm sure it is a huge relief to have them back together.

I have used these turnbuckles myself and quite like them. They are more work to put on and I did replace the pin with something heavier so that they wouldn't fall off.

Here's a link of what I've used:

316 Stainless Steel Marine 3/8'' x 6'' Turnbuckle JAW JAW Pulley Swivel Hoist

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGD8BLQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_BZs1wbEH4ZW0T
 
I have safety chains at all four corners and the stock FWC turnbuckles. $10 of chain cut to fit with bolt cutters and $35 of quick links.
 
I don't recommend stainless turnbuckles because of the metal's low strength and relatively high elasticity (meaning that they stretch easily and at low load).
1500, even 2000 lbs tensile WLL sounds like a lot until you factor in any angle that might be involved with the direction of the actual loading. A simple way to see this is to consider a 3-4-5 triangle. If the turnbuckle is aligned with the '3' side and the resultant angle of the pull happens to align with the '5' side then what ever the strain is can be multiplied by 5/3. That takes a 1200 lbs loading and makes it a 2000 lbs load to the turnbuckle. Make the direction of the loading an even greater angle and the loading on the turnbuckle increases accordingly.
Jaw - Jaw is a good plan, but I'd suggest going with a higher load WLL (say 3000lbs. +) which will likely put you into a galvanized turnbuckle. Given what you're bolting to there's no gain in going with extreme over-kill, just don't under rate the job that you're assigning to the turnbuckle.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads - WTW

Wandering Sagebrush
Another Cautionary Tale
Casa Escarlata Robles Too
Casa Escarlata Robles Too
S
Headlights and air bags.
Starbrightsteve
S
ski3pin
Front Suspension Damage - This needs To Be Fixed
2
fish more
fish more
J
2021 Fleet Front-Dinette For Sale
jp510
J
F
2015 Tacoma SR5 w/ Eagle Suspension Upgrades
firsttracksbmax
F

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom