Ultimate Battery Thread

After watching the @Will Prowse video, i opted to go with the battle born battery. I figured here was a pretty smart young man, capable of assembling his own battery and even he recommended battle born, well that was good enough...well almost, actually i tried to buy one from a local supplier but they were so ridiculous to deal with that i contacted battle born first through IM. They responded immediately which is never the case, then they asked if they could call me to see what me needs were, another rarity. Xlnt communication and customer service...i highly recommend...and i don't like anybody...lol
 
I have emailed questions to companies over the years and it is safe to say that i have never got an answer the same day, with many never replying...so when i made an off hand joking comment to a post someone at battle born had put on facebook, imagine my surprise when i almost immediately received a messenger reply asking if someone could call me...that meant a lot, showed they were paying attention and the importance of communicating with customers...this is rare today, is kind of an old school way to do business and that is important to me...especially with business done over the internet...
 
I added some links to recent posts on batteries, wiring for batteries and battery electronic - on page 1 post #2

Regards,

Craig
 
I have spent a fair amount of time searching......can anyone tell me the charge parameters for the Exide AGM24DP? I recently installed my new Victron Smart charger and I’m in the final setup phase before I make the last connection to my panels.

I also clicked a few links that are on page 1 and they take me back to this post every time. A few of them may be messed up or it’s an error on my end.
 
kBash,

Look here:
http://www2.exide.com/Media/files/Location Data/Battery Charging %26 Storage Specs 11_13_15.pdf

last row "Flat Plate - e.g. Exide Edge


Also here

https://www.deepcyclemarinebattery.com/reviews/exide-edge-fp-agm24dp-flat-plate-agm-sealed-dual-purpose-marine-battery.html

"float voltage (at 25°C/80°F) is 13.5 - 13.8 V and cycling voltage (at 25°C/80°F) is 14.1 - 14.4 V."


Please be advised that a Dual Purpose battery is not the same as a Deep Cycle Battery. It is between a starting battery and a deep cycle battery.

For a house battery (or battery bank) my recommendation is an AGM true deep cycle battery and for a starting battery my recommendation is a good AGM starting battery.

LifePO4 may be an appropriate alternative if you understand the use conditions and charging needs (assuming you are willing to accept the up front costs for the battery and the charging electronics)

Regards,

Craig
 
Added links to the recent "MPPT + DC-DC = (cheap) B2B" and "Charging Choice" WTW threads.

Summarizing question on how much current can one put into a lead acid battery during charging see the info at the "Charging Choice" link:

I found the following information which may be of use relative to battery charging

https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery

https://www.itacanet.org/eng/elec/battery/battery.pdf

https://www.impactbattery.com/blog/2017/05/how-fast-can-i-charge-my-car-battery/

https://www.powerstream.com/SLA.htm

Relative to Lifeline Batteries I found the following:

"The charging current during bulk charging should be set as high as practical; higher current levels mean faster recharge time and less time for the plates to become sulfated. Due to the low impedance design, Lifeline batteries can tolerate an inrush current as high as 5C (500 A for a 100 Ah battery)."

I do not believe this is unique to Lifeline batteries but it may only apply to high quality batteries - I don't really know.

Ref: http://lifelinebatte...ical-Manual.pdf


Note: internal resistance in a lead acid battery changes with SOC and temperature.

https://batteryunive...ect_performance

and

https://batteryunive...rnal_resistance


I hope this information is helpful.

Craig
 
With apologies something happened recently when I edited the list of links and all of the links were broken. I have contacted the WTW moderators to help fix the problem.
 
Looks like some of the links still don't work. My AGM battery is on it's last leg.

Looking at a LiFePO4 system but it appears that I'd need a DC-to-DC charger to protect my alternator from over heating. I currently have a BlueSeas ACR and not sure if that'll protect the house battery from pulling to much charge and over heating as the ACR has a 20amp fuse???? So confused :)

I'm thinking that a Renogy DC charger is the way to go and remove the BlueSeas????

Thanks for any help
 
You don't necessarily need a DC-DC charger. Depending on your alternator output and the wiring gauge between the truck and camper your current maybe OK, or even a little on the low side (as mine is). I would buy the lithium first, then see how much current the battery actually draws.

If you do need a DC-DC charger, then yes it would replace the BlueSeas ACR. For the DC-DC, I would strongly recommend the Victron offering over the Renogy offering. The Victron ones are fully configurable for the specific profile your battery wants using their bluetooth app, and are a higher quality and better supported product.
 
+1 for the Victron Orion DC-DC charger. I have that installed now an it works well. Camping in the deep shade of the Canadian Rockies, my 330W solar panel doesn't get much of a chance to charge the 200AH Battleborn batteries. 30A at 14V gets me 420W of charging during my short drives to trailheads, where I may or may not get sunshine. Made a big difference in our battery SOC on our last short trip.
 
Ok... I decided on what I'm going to do.

I've decided I'm going to build my own LifePO4 battery! It's not much more than buying a new AGM although I have to source cells from China :-(.

I will do a 120Ah battery and based on what I have found it really is a lot more efficient and probably equal to about a 240Ah AGM battery. We don't use much power anyway.

The other positive is that it will weight about 20lbs max.

I'll let you know when it's done. It could take a month to get the cells.
 
Sounds like a fun project! Keep us abreast of how it all goes.

Three years ago when I was working on my lithium batteries, the bare cell cost for prismatic cells was not enough less than the cost of drop ins to make that option worthwhile. Thus spending a lot of hour assembling old stock cylindrical cells into a bigger pack. Recently that has all changed and prismatic cells are now a fraction of the cost of battle borne and the like:
$580 for 280Ah@12V delivered.

Budget another $100 - $200 for the BMS, bus bars and enclosure and you are still 1/3 the cost of 3 battle born batteries with a lot less work.
 
That is a remarkable deal if all is as it says. Wow. I took weeks soldering 120 cells into four packs. This is so easy looking. I have a Battleborn and my dyi in the camper and for the weight and longevity I can’t imagine otherwise. Great deal it looks to be.
 
Just went back to site and the tech sheet said these are lithium Ion batteries.... same as LiFePi4?
 
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