Upgrading from 3 way Norcold...what to do with old gas line..and Truckfridge or Dometic or ?

[Ruck_and_Roll]

The time has come for me to remove my Norcold 3 way from 2008 Hawk which has basically served as storage for warm beer. I disconnected everything, including gas, as well as all of the electrical connections.

The cutout box in my hawk is roughly 20.75 inches wide x 30 inches high x 23 inches long (deep).

1. Now I have an existing gas line going into that box. My plan was to remove the cabinetry and try and cap it somewhere. The existing gas line (pipe) has a female thread that remains extended into the box. I have a feeling if I dig a little deeper into the cabinetry it will branch off from a "T" connection of some sorts in the cabinetry. I'm assuming I can get some sort of cap at a propane supply store? Anyone done this before?

2. I'm looking at replacements and want to get a DC compressor fridge. Looking at the dimensions both the TruckFridge 130 and Dometic CRX 110 would be good fits dimensionally. The truckfridge has some advantanges in that it is a lower cost option (by about $500), has actually more space (4.2 cu ft vs 3.8), and would probably be a slight better fit. Any opinions out there on the TF 130?

 

[ntsqd]

Can't comment on your specific system, but your guess of a 'T' or a cross is what I would expect to find. Possibly near the heater if you have one. Can buy a fitting that joins both tubes without the branch of the 'T' or use a 'T' to replace the cross and eliminat the line going to the current fridge. The fittings used in low pressure gas systems are the SAE 45° Flare family and your local hardware store should have what you need in stock. After all work with gas plumbing check for leaks with a soapy water solution.

Cast a jaundiced eye on the hole left by the removal of the old fridge. I've now done this job twice and both times there was an opportunity to add insulation around the fridge, which I did with rigid insulation from the local home big box store.

 

[Smokecreek1]

Since I replaced my 3 way with a new (a few years ago that is) Dometic CR 110 compression frig/freezer, that old "T" gas valve connection was just perfect for me to hook up a 6 foot hose to my new Wave 6 Heater ! I got the idea here from Mark BC and some others and with some quick instructions from my local RV shop, I now have nice heater I can hang on the cabinet wall or put it on the floor! The frig fit sort of tight, but ya got to be clever when you own one of these pop-ups! I have a 05 Granby.

Smoke

 

[Vic Harder]

R&R, I have the TF130 in my Puma build, and had the same in my Hawk. Good fridges.

 

[Lighthawk]

ntsqd is correct. There is a cross under the gas stove. If I remember correctly, I capped the gas line there when I replaced our Norcold and went Dometic compressor on our '08 Hawk. Also agree to add insulation when you swap refrigerators.

 

[Dirt Rider]

Added a quick connect for outside stove or whatever

 

[camelracer]

I did this modification in my '06 Granby using the Truckfridge 130. I added 1" hard foam insulation to the top, bottom and back of the fridge. I don't think there was room to add any to the sides. If your camper has the IOTA converter there is no need the get the dual voltage fridge. 12v is all you need.
The gas line T is in the stove.

 

[Fishyhead]

My camper is a lot older than yours so this may or may not apply.

My Dometic fridge was plumbed with a copper propane tube and 3/8 flared fitting. My tank is located forward in the camper. From the tank, a line goes to a T-fitting which services the stove and then to a line that is attached to another T-fitting that services the fridge and forced air heater.

When I removed the fridge, I bought a male flared fitting sealing plug to cap the line.
https://propanewarehouse.com/shop/fittings/brass-fittings/brass-flare-sealing-plug/

I also picked up a female flared sealing cap to seal off one of the T-fitting's branches.
https://propanewarehouse.com/shop/fittings/brass-fittings/brass-cap/

I replaced my propane/DC fridge with an Engel MT27F top loading fridge.

 

[ntsqd]

I did get with a dual voltage fridge because we usually pull it down cold while plugged in here at the house before we leave on a trip.

 

[ski3pin]

I did get with a dual voltage fridge because we usually pull it down cold while plugged in here at the house before we leave on a trip.

I agree. Especially with hot weather, it is beneficial to bring the fridge and new contents down to temp with 120AC before starting out on a trip. We also use 120AC when visiting friends on their Montana spread. The truck gets parked in an extra garage and is plugged in.

 

[Ruck_and_Roll]

Thanks for all the help. I had a "T" fitting under the stove (more like an X). Looks like the main line that runs to that fitting, then one to the stove, one to fridge, and another to the hot water heater. The fitting at the X would not budge and I think any extra torque was putting some stress on the copper piping in general. I ended up cutting the pipe running to the fridge and capped it with a 3/8 flare and flare nut (learned something new-how to flare a copper pipe). Checked with soapy water but going to get a little portable detector with a wand to double check everything. So far, so good, definitely don't hear or see any bubbles.

Best,

Luke

 

[Fishyhead]

Nice work. Removing the fitting at the tee was pretty tough on my camper. The putty they used hardened over the years so the only way was to hold the tee tight with a pipe wrench while I undid the fitting with another wrench.