Upgrading Wiring to Charge Camper Batteries From Truck?

[PaulT]

I'm with Vic. Ditch the 10 ga. An especially bad situation could occur if the 2 ga return wire was interrupted but not the 10 ga. All the return current from the 2 ga plus the 10 ga positive wires would have to return through the 10 ga return wire.

At the very least, fuse that 10 ga return wire with a 30 amp fuse..

Paul

 

[muttmaster]

That makes sense. I was thinking that I would shut off the 10 gauge line while I switch in the 2 gauge, and vice versa. Better not take a chance knowing that I might forget to switch off. I will take the 10 gauge out. Thank you.

 

[So Cal Adventurer]

Pardon my mistake. I erred in posting.

As for my remark, it was based entirely on assumptions. First, that the large improvement you report was both welcome and beneficial to you (a sincere, "Well good for you,...).

Second, that such an alteration may make unnecessary, and perhaps is an alternative to, some charging products offered for sale by the aftermarkets such as HO alternators and B2B chargers ("but sux for the aftermarket biz....).

Third, that my second assumption could be supported by the comment, "Just a heads up for those looking to charge faster while driving."

No offense was intended.

It’s all good.

Yes sir.. a lot of aftermarket Gizmos are really unnecessary devices with great marketing

 

[cwdtmmrs]

I'm with Vic. Ditch the 10 ga. An especially bad situation could occur if the 2 ga return wire was interrupted but not the 10 ga. All the return current from the 2 ga plus the 10 ga positive wires would have to return through the 10 ga return wire.

At the very least, fuse that 10 ga return wire with a 30 amp fuse..

Paul

What would be wrong with running a good ground strap to the vechicle frame as well?

 

[PaulT]

What would be wrong with running a good ground strap to the vechicle frame as well?

Mechanical logistics of running a ground strap from the battery inside the camper battery compartment through what path through the truck bed to the truck frame and remembering to fish it back out before pulling the camper then getting it run back through that path to remount the camper would be a deterrent for me.

With a ground strap equivalent to the 2 ga wire, it should be electrically ok.
Paul

 

[ntsqd]

Leave the frame out of the camper battery(ies) charging ground path, run a dedicated ground cable. The voltage drop will be lower with a ground cable. BT, DT with trunk mounted batteries, and now I always run a dedicated same size ground cable. Use an appropriately sized Anderson SB series connector inside the truck's bed to easily connect and disconnect the camper for removal and re-installation.

 

[hank.moran]

I'm in the process of rewiring my 2018 Hawk with 4 AWG from the truck batteries. Currently planning to replace the trolling motor connector with Anderson. Has anyone found a good, clean and "idiot proofed" connector that allows for the third (running lights) connector?

 

[Vic Harder]

I'm in the process of rewiring my 2018 Hawk with 4 AWG from the truck batteries. Currently planning to replace the trolling motor connector with Anderson. Has anyone found a good, clean and "idiot proofed" connector that allows for the third (running lights) connector?

you could keep the trolling motor connection for the running lights and run the power between the camper and truck with the Anderson connectors. Snip and tape off the wires for in the trolling motor connector for power though, so you don't have dual paths for the heavy current.

 

[veryactivelife]

I’ve just gone through this process and did as Vic suggested. One thing I learned was that the marker lights still need a ground wire at the back of the Atwood. I took the pigtail at the back of the Atwood and attached it to my truck bed for a ground. Yesterday I learned that this marker light circuit is independent of the camper system which would explain it needing it’s own ground.

 

[ajacobo]

Hey all, I could use a little advice... so i was removing my HAwk for the first time yesterday and as I was pulling the truck out I forgot to stop and pulled the plug out at an angle. The male plug connections are now all oval and not round, the female receptacle looks fine.

My question is this the correct replacement.....https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Connector-Trolling-Motor-Male/dp/B001O0D6NI/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxdSHBhCdARIsAG6zhlX5_5mOle8IJ3UAExi7M5hFY7TmblxmmllSuOLjM9RHPcp_t7BzaLkaAtDMEALw_wcB&hvadid=178101300183&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9030455&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7742579708975088073&hvtargid=kwd-31191600259&hydadcr=10066_9882026&keywords=attwood+trolling+motor+plug&qid=1626703322&sr=8-5

And if so is splicing it straight forward.... black to black, yellow to yellow and so on? Do I need to disconnect anything in the camper?
Thanks for any advice.
Aaron

 

[donmac]

Looks like the same Atwood plug that came with my FWC install kit.

Hey all, I could use a little advice... so i was removing my HAwk for the first time yesterday and as I was pulling the truck out I forgot to stop and pulled the plug out at an angle. The male plug connections are now all oval and not round, the female receptacle looks fine.

My question is this the correct replacement.....https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Connector-Trolling-Motor-Male/dp/B001O0D6NI/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxdSHBhCdARIsAG6zhlX5_5mOle8IJ3UAExi7M5hFY7TmblxmmllSuOLjM9RHPcp_t7BzaLkaAtDMEALw_wcB&hvadid=178101300183&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9030455&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7742579708975088073&hvtargid=kwd-31191600259&hydadcr=10066_9882026&keywords=attwood+trolling+motor+plug&qid=1626703322&sr=8-5

And if so is splicing it straight forward.... black to black, yellow to yellow and so on? Do I need to disconnect anything in the camper?
Thanks for any advice.
Aaron

 

[Jon R]

That is the connector the dealer was going to use for my 2021 Grandby.