Want to replace MPPT and battery monitor, mounting issues

[radarcontact]

Thought I'd reach out to the community and see what others have done in a similar situation....

I want to replace my current controller/battery monitor with Victron equipment, as my MPPT won't handle anything above 35-40V. I have 3 panels on the roof that I want to rewire in a mixed configuration (2 smaller ones in parallel, then in series with the bigger one). The voltage could potentially be 40V or more, hence my need to upgrade my MPPT. Also, I'm not happy with the performance of my current MPPT, but that's another story.

My issue is this - the hole left by my current MPPT is about 5 5/8" x 4 1/8". The Victron 100/20 MPPT, for example, is smaller, so there would be gaps around the edges and no good way to screw the MPPT to the cabinet. Any ideas about cover plates or other ways to fill the gap? I have the same issue with the battery monitor, as I can't use my current one with Victron equipment. The hole is larger than the BMV-712.

I could go with a 100/30 Victron, which has larger dimensions than the hole I have, but it's overkill, as my panels wired in the configuration I want won't generate more than 9A under ideal conditions. Even if wired in parallel they won't provide more than 18A ideally, and I've never seen them produce higher than about 16A, albeit briefly.

 

[BlueSky]

I went to a local hardware store and got a piece of black glossy plastic (polycarbonate) and made a bezel. Actually made 3 since the first two turned out to be "practice." Does look good though.

 

[BFH4N]

I wouldn't let the size of the existing hole determine the equipment you get! You can easily make an adaptor plate (bezel) out of aluminum or plastic, as BlueSky suggests.

 

[radarcontact]

I went to a local hardware store and got a piece of black glossy plastic (polycarbonate) and made a bezel. Actually made 3 since the first two turned out to be "practice." Does look good though.

OK. Seems simple enough. Assuming you used a plastic cutting tool to make smooth cuts....? And drilled holes in the corners for screws. I'll check out what my hardware store has....hopefully something I can use. I don't live near a Home Depot.

 

[BlueSky]

I used a jig saw with a fine tooth blade to cut the plastic. First I cut out the inner rectangle by drilling holes in the corners and jig sawing to the 4 holes. Then I cut out the outer profile and sanded/filed it all nice a smooth. I drilled and countersunk small holes for mounting. Took a couple of tries to get one that looked good. This was for my new USB/Switches/Battery indicator panel BTW. The old hole was too big, hence the need for the bezel plate.

 

[radarcontact]

I used a jig saw with a fine tooth blade to cut the plastic. First I cut out the inner rectangle by drilling holes in the corners and jig sawing to the 4 holes. Then I cut out the outer profile and sanded/filed it all nice a smooth. I drilled and countersunk small holes for mounting. Took a couple of tries to get one that looked good. This was for my new USB/Switches/Battery indicator panel BTW. The old hole was too big, hence the need for the bezel plate.

Thanks very much for the good advice.

 

[dscobell]

Ditto on what BlueSky did. I traced my Zamp controller's outline on clear plastic from HD. I used the mounting screws furnished by Zamp to keep the look consistent. I chose to spray the cabinet side of the plastic with black primer. The plastic looks black but spraying the back leaves a smooth, unpainted texture on the interior facing surface. Just my take..

 

[ntsqd]

I made something similar to replace a weird, double DIN -ish stereo with a std single DIN head unit and some charging outlets. I used black textured ABS sourced from amazonian pop-top camper supply.

 

[radarcontact]

Thanks dscobell and ntsqd for your replies. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to go, and your suggestions have helped clear some things up for me. Much appreciated.