Water System Plugged

[digger289]

Hello everyone, I am a newbie here and did not find anything (new) searching that I havn't tried.

I have replaced the pump already and it sounds fine (the old one was wheezing but probably still working)

I have taken off the screen on the faucet-it was clean, as was the pump screen.

The pump will do its thing then stop, no water will come out of either the faucet nor the outside shower.

However, if I take out the hot water heater plug/anode, it comes out under pressure and gets me pretty dang wet. The anode is eaten away a bit so I suspect that stuff is stuck somewhere.

I have tried connecting shore water, but that has never worked anyway (maybe part of problem?)

I think I will have to completely disasemble front panel of the galley to get into all the plumbing (panel is one piece on this model) and was hoping for some other things to try before doing so.

Thanks,

Brad and Ellen
2005 FWC Kestrel
1996 Toyota T-100

 

[DurangoDoug]

Good luck!

Hey Brad--

Good luck on getting your Hawk fixed....

-Doug

p.s.--We need to get dinner with you guys on the schedule!

Did the plastic crate fit in your camper?

 

[benburnett]

water problem

Sounds like you should give Stan a call at 800-242-1442. Either Stan or Chicali should be able to help you out with that one.

 

[camelracer]

I had the same problem with the anode crud plugging up the system. My plug was at the faucet screen but there are probably other points in the system that can plug. I know there is a check valve that prevents shore water from entering the pump and tank.

 

[Mark W. Ingalls]

Dear Brad & Ellen--

Welcome to the forum; as you've observed, the folks here are really nice to be around.

...and they like to help out all they can...

 

[kcowyo]

I just wanted to say, 'Welcome', to another FWC & T100 owner to the forum.

You'll get some good help here.

 

[DLN]

Brad & Ellen,

Welcome aboard folks. Can't help with the problem but I'm sure others will.

 

[flinchlock]

I also want to say Hi!

I also can't help with the problem... how about using a 3000# scuba tank and just blow the crud out through the front of the camper and through the engine block? JUST KIDDING!

Mike

 

[pvstoy]

Welcome to the board Brad and Ellen,

Water will go from the tank to the pump. Pump is the on-demand and builds up ~45psi and turns off.

The "city water" is when you screw on a hose on that outside fitting and like Camelracer says there is a check valve that prevents the water flow back into the waterpump and tank.

The hot water heater will always have three gallons of water in it(new ones 4 gallons) and is filled each time you open the hot water valve inside or outside. That water will stay in the tank untill you remove the Anode fitting. I see that you can get a valve combo Anode to make it eisier to drain. What ever water quality that is in the tank sitting and the worse it is, the more the Anode will be eaten away. Before storing camper for a while, drain the water heater tank.

Since you said that the "city water" system never worked, I would start looking at where the pump line meets the "city water line.

From that point the water splits to feed the hot water heater and the cold water side.

Your check valve may be broken - defective and is blocking both supply lines.

Good luck

 

[HERR42]

that sounds real good.
you think he could access anything by removing the external water fill port?

 

[pvstoy]

that sounds real good.
you think he could access anything by removing the external water fill port?

The inner hoses are fitted to the outside fill port and are tight. You would not be able to remove and look in because not enough slack.

Taking out the draw you can look in at the hoses and get a view. But to really work on it the cabinet face should come off. The stuff to look at and replace is too low.

This is all from looking at an 2007 FWC Kestrel. Not sure as to what changes were made from the 2005 FWC Kestrel model. A call to Stan or at their service should get questions answered

 

[pvstoy]

This is how the 2007 Kestrel looks (minus that bottom extra storage in the middle). It looks like the water pump is behind the small access pannel screwd to the cabinet face. I don't know if there is enough room to work. I don't have the camper here anymore.

But here are some pictures anyway...We all like pictures

 

[pvstoy]

Two more.......

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

hello digger289


Just call Chicali in our service dept. 800-242-1442.

He might be able to trouble shoot it for you over the phone.

If he can't help get you through it for some reason, let me know and I will see what I can find out for you.

Have you checked the screen filter right next to the water pump ?

Make sure the screen is clean and also the cap is tight (tight so it won't suck air into the system when the pump is trying to push the water up to the sink)




.

 

[Pete D]

Just for the info in this thread for lurkers and archive-searchers, every RV city water inlet I have seen has a checkvalve located inside the city water inlet to keep RV water from flowing back out (similar in part to the checkvalves that are in a home system on the outside spigots).

These keep inside water (pump and tank) from flowing out the city water inlet if the cap was leaking or off. They also keep suction in the city water system, because of a campground water system problem, from sucking RV water into that system.

Also, most (all?) systems I have seen have a check valve between the city water and the pump and tank; else city water would backfill the tank and then flow out the vent and overflow. The tank is filled manually at the filler.

The city water IS usually connected to the hot water system because that is a closed system, however, the hot tank likely wouldn't fill unless a hot water faucet (sink or shower) is open to vent the system (Important to know because you don't want to think your hot water tank is on when you activate it, esp if you have an electric heater like a Hott Rod).

Stan and Ben, it would likely help owners to maintain, diagnose and fix their systems, if some simple diagrams of the water and electrical systems were included with the TC papers. Just an afterthought.

 

[Mark W. Ingalls]

Stan and Ben, it would likely help owners to maintain, diagnose and fix their systems, if some simple diagrams of the water and electrical systems were included with the TC papers. Just an afterthought.

AMEN, brother!

 

[DesertDon]

Troubleshooting ideas

Assuming it is a warm day, things will get wet, here are some things I would try to isolate the problem.

With the water heater plug open:
1. Run the water pump. If the pump system is clear, water should run from the WH plug.
2. Run water through the city water connection. If the city water system is clear, water should run from the WH plug.

If both systems are clear then the problem may lie with the faucet itself. (It is the only device downstream from the WH and cold water supply) I don't know what type of faucet is on your rig, but you should be able to disassemble the valves to get to the washers. That is where I would expect to find a blockage. With the valves disassambled, turn the water pump on for a short burst to verify that the line is clear. If nothing is obivous try blowing low pressure compressed air in both sides of the faucet.

The water lines as you know are 1/2 rigid plastic. I can't imagine them being crushed or kinked. If the above doesn't work you may have to open up the cabinet exam the lines for some type of debris or dead critter.

Hope this helps.

Don

 

[pvstoy]

The water from the pump / city supply line will have a "T". One side for the cold water and one for the hot water heater side.

See if the "T" is plugged back to the supply from pump / city water merge.

If just the hotwater side is plugged then the pump / city supply should still supply the cold water side.

 

[HERR42]

i sure want to hear the results!

i sure want to hear the results!

 

[digger289]

Thanks for all the great replies!

Sorry I havn't checked in sooner,

Doug, I forgot what the box you gave us is for???

Stan, I did talk to Chicali who sent me the new pump, which I replaced already. A second call and he thought it could be the check valve.

I posted to see if there were any other ideas to try before taking the cabinet face off.

I like Desert Don's advice, at least something to try first. DD, where do you think the outside shower is in line? It does not flow either. Would a blocked faucet stop the flow to the shower??? If yes, that is hopeful.

Pvstoy, what is the door under the fuse panel between the tie down openings? Do I want one?

Thanks everyone!