Old Crow
Searching....
So, how do I shut off the hot water tank so that I can just use (test) the cold water tank and lines?
I don't think it's the internal valves that I posted pic above?
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Yes, it is one of those internal valves--- the one on the vertical pipe--- that allows you to isolate the hot-water side of the plumbing.
Let me try re-posting that photo...
The valve on the left allows water flowing from above that valve (i.e. from the water pump or city-water connection) to go down into the horizontal pipe we see immediately below the water pump. That goes to the water-heater tank inlet. It's just out of view on the right. If we look at your original photo you can see that pipe connected to the inlet...
The right valve allows or closes off water flow back to your fresh-water tank. Leave it closed for now.
The first step in looking for the problem is the visual inspection and feeling around the system components for a split of some kind. I believe you've already done that as best you can.
So I believe the suggestion is you'd close that left valve and connect to city-water and have someone open the city-water spigot as you watch for leaks.
If you have no leaks at that point, double-check that the right valve is closed, open hot-water taps (to allow air to flow out as system fills with water) and open the left valve to allow water into the hot-water tank. Look for leaks. That should check your tank and the pipes leading to your hot-water taps.
If you have no leaks at that point, fill your freshwater tank, disconnect from city-water, and draw water from one or more faucets so the water-pump runs and you can check for leaks in the lines to the water pump, the strainer, and the pump itself.
Oh, yeah-- very important--- you'll of course want to winterize after testing!
.
I don't think it's the internal valves that I posted pic above?
-----
Yes, it is one of those internal valves--- the one on the vertical pipe--- that allows you to isolate the hot-water side of the plumbing.
Let me try re-posting that photo...
The valve on the left allows water flowing from above that valve (i.e. from the water pump or city-water connection) to go down into the horizontal pipe we see immediately below the water pump. That goes to the water-heater tank inlet. It's just out of view on the right. If we look at your original photo you can see that pipe connected to the inlet...
The right valve allows or closes off water flow back to your fresh-water tank. Leave it closed for now.
The first step in looking for the problem is the visual inspection and feeling around the system components for a split of some kind. I believe you've already done that as best you can.
So I believe the suggestion is you'd close that left valve and connect to city-water and have someone open the city-water spigot as you watch for leaks.
If you have no leaks at that point, double-check that the right valve is closed, open hot-water taps (to allow air to flow out as system fills with water) and open the left valve to allow water into the hot-water tank. Look for leaks. That should check your tank and the pipes leading to your hot-water taps.
If you have no leaks at that point, fill your freshwater tank, disconnect from city-water, and draw water from one or more faucets so the water-pump runs and you can check for leaks in the lines to the water pump, the strainer, and the pump itself.
Oh, yeah-- very important--- you'll of course want to winterize after testing!
.
