Water tank access hatch?

Because I started this topic, I figure I'd better report on my installation of a 4" round screw-in deck plate onto the 20-gallon water tank in my 2009 Hawk. The 4" deck plate I bought is from West Marine, model 11743028. It has a clear center and, most of all, has an 'O' ring so it doesn't leak.

5 Dremel and hole.jpg

I used my Dremel tool to cut the hole. There was a bit of black stuff inside the tank as you can see but it wasn't too bad considering I've been using water from the tank for 9 years.

3Tank interior wall.jpg

Just in case you were wondering what's inside the tank, here's an interior photo of the tank wall with all the fittings. The fill and vent fittings are at the top. The drain fitting is lower left. The water intake is the long fitting lower right. The other items are the sensors for the water level monitor.

Hole and Parts.jpg

I used a bead of 100% silicone to set the ring. Since the tank is thin, I was looking for a back place to put inside the tank to hold a screw or bolt. I didn't have any luck finding a back plate so I used small pieces of UHMW polyethylene inside the tank to capture the screw threads.

Deck plate in place with wrench.jpg

After letting the silicone cure overnight, I filled the tank with water. I discovered that a lot of pressure can build up inside the tank if the fill hose is running more water into the tank than can escape through the vent. Gotta be careful not to overfill. At first there was a bit of a water leak around the center cap because I only hand-tightened it. One I got out my trusty deck plate wrench and was able to turn the center cap an extra quarter turn, there's been no leak.

I've sanitized the tank and am ready to head out for the weekend. I'll report back if there's anything to add.
 
^ Beauty.

esimmers said:
. Since the tank is thin, I was looking for a back place to put inside the tank to hold a screw or bolt. I didn't have any luck finding a back plate so I used small pieces of UHMW polyethylene inside the tank to capture the screw threads.
Well done.
 
esimmers said:
Because I started this topic, I figure I'd better report on my installation of a 4" round screw-in deck plate onto the 20-gallon water tank in my 2009 Hawk. The 4" deck plate I bought is from West Marine, model 11743028. It has a clear center and, most of all, has an 'O' ring so it doesn't leak.

attachicon.gif
5 Dremel and hole.jpg

I used my Dremel tool to cut the hole. There was a bit of black stuff inside the tank as you can see but it wasn't too bad considering I've been using water from the tank for 9 years.

attachicon.gif
3Tank interior wall.jpg

Just in case you were wondering what's inside the tank, here's an interior photo of the tank wall with all the fittings. The fill and vent fittings are at the top. The drain fitting is lower left. The water intake is the long fitting lower right. The other items are the sensors for the water level monitor.

attachicon.gif
Hole and Parts.jpg

I used a bead of 100% silicone to set the ring. Since the tank is thin, I was looking for a back place to put inside the tank to hold a screw or bolt. I didn't have any luck finding a back plate so I used small pieces of UHMW polyethylene inside the tank to capture the screw threads.

attachicon.gif
Deck plate in place with wrench.jpg

After letting the silicone cure overnight, I filled the tank with water. I discovered that a lot of pressure can build up inside the tank if the fill hose is running more water into the tank than can escape through the vent. Gotta be careful not to overfill. At first there was a bit of a water leak around the center cap because I only hand-tightened it. One I got out my trusty deck plate wrench and was able to turn the center cap an extra quarter turn, there's been no leak.

I've sanitized the tank and am ready to head out for the weekend. I'll report back if there's anything to add.

Very well done. Methodical and completed the correct way.

Tough question: Given that....

"There was a bit of black stuff inside the tank as you can see but it wasn't too bad considering I've been using water from the tank for 9 years."

Do you feel the placement of a clean out is necessary? I really don't see the 'black stuff' in the photo but don't doubt your word.

Again, no slight intended of anyone wishing this modification; just trying to get a handle on the perceived or real problem.

Thanks...Phil

Ps...I found the interior of the tank photo extremely informative as it shows the through tank fittings, not only where they are but their function...good job. No where on FWC website is this information available, or at least I never found it.
 
Wallowa,

No, I don't think the clean out is all that necessary for most people. I did it mostly just because I could.

It was an interesting learning experience but any time you degrade the integrity of a sealed water tank there could be leaks developing and a chance for contamination.
 
esimmers said:
Wallowa,

No, I don't think the clean out is all that necessary for most people. I did it mostly just because I could.

It was an interesting learning experience but any time you degrade the integrity of a sealed water tank there could be leaks developing and a chance for contamination.

Understood .. and I am envious of your skill shown at tackling this regardless of whether or not it is a crucial modification...I would made a mess out of what you adroitly did..

Thanks..Phil
 
Interesting. Having been around boats all my life I'm surprised that anyone would question installing one. It is considered essential. And we don't call them "clean-outs". They are referred to as "inspection ports". After all, how do you know it is clean if you can't see inside?
 
Backroad Joe said:
Interesting. Having been around boats all my life I'm surprised that anyone would question installing one. It is considered essential. And we don't call them "clean-outs". They are referred to as "inspection ports". After all, how do you know it is clean if you can't see inside?

Well I guess like the Prairie Schooners we could consider the FWCs 'Land Yachts'....why 'essential' on boats..partially due to the different environments; humidity/temp...'inspecting' for mold I would assume on boats...on FWCs as we have seen being "clean" does not seem to be an issue unless the owner never bothers to drain or disinfect them...on a boat draining the drinking water holding tanks would be problematic, like the bilge, they would need to be pumped out I assume...my sea kayaks only needed to be inverted to drain them.. :D

Think of it like a CamelBak water bladder...can't really see the inside of the bladder through the fill hole, so you drain them, dry them and the periodically use a tbs of Clorox to disinfect the bladder...like our FWC water systems. Not mentioned, is that the FWC hot water heaters hold back about a gallon of water even when drained and that tank is a heated, high humidity, dark mold nurturing space that needs the Clorox...even without visual inspection.

Hey, whatever gets you through the night! ;)

Phil
 
Can you drain the water tank a lot more by parking on a hill?


Good question, I have no idea. Remember that you never dry out the water system, you drain MOST of the water so Clorox is still needed...I also assume that the remaining one gallon in the water heater does not pose a problem in freezing temps [room for expansion] when the water systems could be drained to protect them...I have heard that the outside shower plumbing also never really drains and may split from freezing...sink trap and pump always seemed vulnerable to me in below zero hard freezes...

Most novel idea for preventing ice damage was when a member suggested two quarts of vodka...you could boil the booze out of water drawn from the system..come to think of it that would also disinfect the system.

Always work-arounds but alas none work 100% of the time...old man Murphy is always ready to throw a monkey wrench in the plans.
 

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