Water Tank Drain Spigot Replacement

[Shadyapex]

Hi all, I've read everything I can find on this forum about the annoyance of changing the made by Mattel drain spigot on my 2010 Eagle and it's been very helpful.
When I took a closer look at the area behind the spigot I found that my problem wasn't really a super short hose, and it is very shot, but the fact that the area behind the spigot and surrounding the hose and hose clamp is almost completely filled with caulk.
I did get the caulk out after much poking and prodding and now have access to the hose clamp and will replace the spigot as soon as I locate something of higher quality than the toy that FWC used.
My question is this; is all that caulk meant to keep the hose clamp from vibrating loose, to contain potential leaks? And if I decide to fill the area again what type of caulk should I use.
Any info is appreciated as usual. Cheers, and thanks, Steve,,,,,

 

[BFH4N]

My Fleet did not have excessive caulk around the hose, just a reasonable amount behind the flange of the valve. I don't see what benefit a lot of caulk back in there would provide. I don't think you need to replace the caulk around the hose and clamp.

- Bernard

 

[RHarries]

I am nearly ready to begin this endeavor on my 2010 Hawk, so i would be interested in knowing what more durable drain valve you decide on.

 

[veryactivelife]

I made this switch 2 years ago and there was only caulk sealing the flange to the camper. Most people are using the machined aluminum flange that is available on eBay. Then you add your valve of choice. The first valve I used was a ball valve which started leaking after a year. I then replaced it with a solid brass needle valve. Happy with this so far. If you’re a Facebook user, I have a post pinned to the top of my VeryActiveLife page which has photos and a link to the flange.

This is an easy upgrade and well worth doing before the plastic one just shears off in the field and dumps all your water.

Cheers
Dean

 

[Shadyapex]

Thanks guys, I've taken a suggestion from another thread on this topic and ordered a valve and barb from McMaster-Carr.
It's part numbers 4792K65 and 5346K25.
We'll see how it works. I guess the builder of my camper just got a bit carried away with the caulk.

 

[fuzzymarindave]

I am just replacing mine today on a 2015 Hawk. I got 4 years on the plastic model and very easy to change. I will use the hose clamp only to seal the barb and butyl rubber caulk for the flange to camper along with two screws.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HRQH1K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Vic Harder]

Previous threads on this topic

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/325-fresh-water-petcock-drain-valve/

I installed a brass ball valve after having seen others here do it... and drat, I can't seem to find any posts here on that, and I KNOW I posted here on the topic... old age I guess!

 

[Old Crow]

This another drain valve replacement thread includes a photo of yours, Vic (and Bernard's).

Readers may also be interested in the other concepts in that thread --- door bumper extension, plumbing to the pressurized side of pump and using an air pressure fitting at the hose fill to drain more quickly.
.

 

[Shadyapex]

Thanks again, all. The set up that I posted above turns out to be too long for the space available in my 2010 Eagle. I'm going to try this valve flange that billharr posted in another similar thread.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-FRESH-WATER-DRAIN-VALVE-FLANGE-3-8-or-1-2-WONT-FAIL-EVER-AGAIN-/181845510888?hash=item2a56d64ae8:m:mrpTvyi5F0dofNjWCDNPYHw&vxp=mtr
coupled with this valve.
https://smile.amazon.com/LASCO-17-0939-4-Inch-Compression-8-Inch/dp/B00HYXQO4C/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Lasco+17-0939&qid=1564029956&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Welcome any thoughts,,,,,,
Edit; I've got the original plastic valve on my Eagle (9 years) and every time I use it I'm afraid that the handle is going to break. I'll be psyched if this works out to be a reliable, easy to use replacement. What I don't understand is why this took so much time to find a solution. Many thanks to the clever members here who posted their solutions. I know the flow is pretty slow on the original and probably will be on the new valve but this doesn't bother me. When I finish a trip I just open the drain 2 or 3 hours before reaching home and it's empty by the time I'm home. I'll post how well this works for me. Cheers,,,,,

 

[smlobx]

^^^
Shady-
You’re upgrading to what I did after reading the thread on WTW and it has worked out very well. We used it on a month long trip to CO and UT and we loved the solid feeling.

 

[Shadyapex]

^^^
Shady-
You’re upgrading to what I did after reading the thread on WTW and it has worked out very well. We used it on a month long trip to CO and UT and we loved the solid feeling.

Thanks Eddie, I read every thread I could find so I’m glad to hear that it seems like a good choice.

 

[veryactivelife]

As I stated in my previous post I originally used the Lasco ball valve, however it failed after a year. First a slow drip and eventually a fast drip. This is why I switched to the all brass needle valve. Can’t really recommend the Lasco as being reliable.