pollux
Senior Member
simply put a rhino rack wind fairing, it works
Wind noise from a FWC
- Thread starter 12valve
- Start date
rubberlegs
back country campers
What was the amazing difference ? Nois?Vic Harder said:
yes, noise.
PackRat
Senior Member
Vic....just a thought, you didn't mention any gusset plate inside where the faring is bolted to the camper. If you could install an aluminum plate about a minimum of 6" wide and nearly the distance you can fit it fore and aft, I don't think you will have the bolts pull through.
Remember when you were a kid (before auto AC) and you went down the highway with your hand out the passenger window? As long as it was FLAT you could just about fight the wind at 65/75MPH but as soon as you held it at an angle, the wind wanted to either push it UP or push it DOWN and with the faring in that position it will want to force the two forwar bolts DOWN and that would be through the camper where they are bolted.
If you have solved that problem, they you are good to go...but I do like the looks of that Rhino Rack since I believe it is anchored to the roof rain gutters and if you don't have too much camper overhang of the cab and can fit it there it might be enough to make a difference in the air noise and give you a few teaspoons better gas mileage as wind resistance is cut.
Remember when you were a kid (before auto AC) and you went down the highway with your hand out the passenger window? As long as it was FLAT you could just about fight the wind at 65/75MPH but as soon as you held it at an angle, the wind wanted to either push it UP or push it DOWN and with the faring in that position it will want to force the two forwar bolts DOWN and that would be through the camper where they are bolted.
If you have solved that problem, they you are good to go...but I do like the looks of that Rhino Rack since I believe it is anchored to the roof rain gutters and if you don't have too much camper overhang of the cab and can fit it there it might be enough to make a difference in the air noise and give you a few teaspoons better gas mileage as wind resistance is cut.
hmmm... that would interfere with the slide out bed... not to mention being a big lump under the mattress. BUT, you have me concerned about strength. Having that rip off would be a major downer.PackRat said:
That said, I copied what others had done, BUT without knowing how they anchored it inside the camper. Can anyone speak to that?
Vic
Alley-Kat
Elder Statesman
Vic,
Hard for me to see your photo in much detail (just had cataract surgery over the past two weeks), however...
Examine the very front, inside of your cab over, pull the front cushions towards the back about half a foot or so. You can probably pull the fabric material back from the aluminium metal "C" channel that makes the front of the cab over (it might be just shoved into that space, not glued in place), and then you can determine where you can put another bolt, up into the bottom edge of the aluminium metal "C" channel from the bracket.
Any downwards force of the air fairing, will pivot around that front, very secure bolt into the bottom edge of the aluminium metal "C" channel and force the rear of the air fairing bracket UP and into the bottom of the cab over. And, it won't interfere with the operation of the pull out bed.
Keep your other screws attaching the bracket in place and nothing will move.
Unless your bracket fails just in front of the bolt up into the bottom of the aluminium metal "C" channel from the bracket.
Hard for me to see your photo in much detail (just had cataract surgery over the past two weeks), however...
Examine the very front, inside of your cab over, pull the front cushions towards the back about half a foot or so. You can probably pull the fabric material back from the aluminium metal "C" channel that makes the front of the cab over (it might be just shoved into that space, not glued in place), and then you can determine where you can put another bolt, up into the bottom edge of the aluminium metal "C" channel from the bracket.
Any downwards force of the air fairing, will pivot around that front, very secure bolt into the bottom edge of the aluminium metal "C" channel and force the rear of the air fairing bracket UP and into the bottom of the cab over. And, it won't interfere with the operation of the pull out bed.
Keep your other screws attaching the bracket in place and nothing will move.
Unless your bracket fails just in front of the bolt up into the bottom of the aluminium metal "C" channel from the bracket.
Alley-Kat, I was just having an nap and that same idea occurred to me! Nice to have the verification.
And so thanks, I will do that.
And so thanks, I will do that.
Alley-Kat
Elder Statesman
Yeah, get some attachment points into some metal.
You may want to figure out something to put on the bottom of the wind fairing to cushion the top of the cab of the truck, in case the downward forces decide to bend the wind fairing downward. Maybe a piece of thin wall, hot water pipe insulation? Or, maybe some wetsuit material?, Something soft that will normally ride above the top of the truck cab and only come into play with a downward force of air on the wind fairing.
You may want to figure out something to put on the bottom of the wind fairing to cushion the top of the cab of the truck, in case the downward forces decide to bend the wind fairing downward. Maybe a piece of thin wall, hot water pipe insulation? Or, maybe some wetsuit material?, Something soft that will normally ride above the top of the truck cab and only come into play with a downward force of air on the wind fairing.
Good thought. A pool noodle sliced down its length is waiting to be installed!Alley-Kat said:
Sunsurfer
New Member
First of all, I would like to thank everyone for their input on this subject.
I purchased a Yakima roof rack and wind fairing hoping to decrease my wind noise. But the fairing made the noise worse!
It created a howling noise that was not there before.
Now I do believe it is just my situation, but now I have a useless fairing setup for my 2013 Chevy Silverado.
If anybody out there would like to take it off my hands for $200 plus shipping ( I paid $300 ). I would be happy to send it to them. It was only used once.
I purchased a Yakima roof rack and wind fairing hoping to decrease my wind noise. But the fairing made the noise worse!
It created a howling noise that was not there before.
Now I do believe it is just my situation, but now I have a useless fairing setup for my 2013 Chevy Silverado.
If anybody out there would like to take it off my hands for $200 plus shipping ( I paid $300 ). I would be happy to send it to them. It was only used once.
pvstoy
Senior Member
Sunsurfer what you have is part way there. The reason you have increased noise is the plastic part is too short. The air as it flows over it will tip in on the back side. Combine that with the square flat face of the camper where the air is still hitting is also being pulled down behind the faring. What you can call dirty air.
If you are good with still using the rack mounted you can source a sheet of material that is uv protected that will climb from behind the windshield to 3/4 or so up the face of the camper. The more you can get the air to flow up and over will prevent water, air and dirt into the gap between roof and camper siding. You would need to be creative on making brackets to attach to the bar.
If you are good with still using the rack mounted you can source a sheet of material that is uv protected that will climb from behind the windshield to 3/4 or so up the face of the camper. The more you can get the air to flow up and over will prevent water, air and dirt into the gap between roof and camper siding. You would need to be creative on making brackets to attach to the bar.
pollux
Senior Member
I think if you wrap the roof rack with thick plastic foam or cloth, the noise may disappearSunsurfer said:First of all, I would like to thank everyone for their input on this subject.
I purchased a Yakima roof rack and wind fairing hoping to decrease my wind noise. But the fairing made the noise worse!
It created a howling noise that was not there before.
Now I do believe it is just my situation, but now I have a useless fairing setup for my 2013 Chevy Silverado.
If anybody out there would like to take it off my hands for $200 plus shipping ( I paid $300 ). I would be happy to send it to them. It was only used once.
Fairing on truck 1.JPG
Fairing alone.JPG
+1 on this. Too short, and/or too close to the camper.pvstoy said:
I like that DIY model.Would a sticky solar panel work there?
Maybe have it removable by inserting the frame into square channel steel attached to the camper?
Have a similar square tube mount in rear above door for different solar angle, and awning.Also for rear mount storage off pavement where the tight to roof fit my be a concern for roof damage.
Solar Panel/wind deflector could also be used for portable solar while camping in shade.
Maybe have it removable by inserting the frame into square channel steel attached to the camper?
Have a similar square tube mount in rear above door for different solar angle, and awning.Also for rear mount storage off pavement where the tight to roof fit my be a concern for roof damage.
Solar Panel/wind deflector could also be used for portable solar while camping in shade.
I made one like that before the current model. You are correct, it was way worse for noise. The roof tin-canned something terrible!cwdtmmrs said:
There is at least one user on the forum who has a PV panel mounted where I have my fairing.Chrish said:
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