winterizing your camper questions

dauntless225

Advanced Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2014
Messages
48
Location
Colton, Oregon
So this is my first popup camper and decided it is time to winterize it since I'm done camping until early spring. I did the following:
1. On the last camping trip I opened the valved on the back of the camper to drain the water with the faucets open.
2. Got home pulled the drain plug on the water heater
3. Turned the hot water bypass on
4. Tried pumped water nothing would really come out. so figured it is about as empty as I can get it.
5. I put a couple gallons of RV anti-freeze in the water tank.
6. Turned on the water pump again for the sink and outside shower until pink came out.
7. I then put a Dri-air dehumidifer on the counter in a larger pan. the pan is just in case it overflows..almost had that happen in the past.

I think I'm covered (do correct me if I'm wrong)

I do have one question the camper is sitting on my truck in a un-heated pole barn in the pop'ed up position. I have the cold weather package which I think is just the extra lining that hangs on the inside. and it is plugged into AC.
1. should I take down the lining? I did leave the liner windows open for some air flow, but the outside windows are closed.
2. unplug from shore power and then turn off the power to the camper appliances?

I know long post...
 
I am not sure that you are supposed to leave it plugged in to AC full time. I plug and un plug my AC every so often. It gives the battery a chance to fluctuate. I suspect there are better battery experts than me here.

Also I drive around with the hot water heater plug out ... seems like I can never get all the water out ... it keeps dribbling .. other than that ... I do the same things you do.
 
Make sure you see a little pink come out of the drain on the rear of the camper. Not sure how important that is but I just thought of it.

Steve
 
I remove my battery and shower mixing unit. It isn't good for a marine type battery to freeze. If you get below zero temps for days you shouldn't take a chance when its easy to bring in the house. The shower mixing unit is impossible to get all the water out (I've cracked 2) now I just remove it. Real easy from the cabinet access.
As far as putting the pink chemical in the drinking supply, I wonder how safe it would be to drink that chemical residue next summer?
I also purchased an air compressor fitting for the water intake valve. This allows me to blow the lines using compressed air. If you don't have a compressor go to a gas station
good luck
 
Kevin, I think you have things under control. I would also leave the vent and glass window cracked open a bit for airflow through the camper. I don't think it is wise to have AC on 100% of the time. However, It wouldn't hurt to connect to power and charge batteries occasionally. With typical Willamette Valley temps, if your batteries are at full capacity they should be fine until spring, but again it wouldn't hurt to charge occasionally.

Oh, make sure there is no water in the top of the porta-potti.
 
bike4mee said:
<snip>
As far as putting the pink chemical in the drinking supply, I wonder how safe it would be to drink that chemical residue next summer?
I also purchased an air compressor fitting for the water intake valve. This allows me to blow the lines using compressed air. If you don't have a compressor go to a gas station
good luck
How are you getting water out of the pump? That could be an issue if it is not drained, or doesn't have anti freeze.
 
D225 - good job man! You've done more than many do I think. You didn't mention the outside shower hose; if you have one, I would remove it and make sure it's drained well. The little puddle of water in the metal heater tank wont hurt a thing. Wish I had a pole shed!
Ramblinman said:
I am not sure that you are supposed to leave it plugged in to AC full time.
My IOTA is a great smart charger and can be on full time. Will keep battery in fine shape! (I usually bring my battery inside, or use it for another purpose)

bike4mee said:
It isn't good for a marine type battery to freeze.
baloney! marine type batteries are common in the north. I have a few, use them year round down to -50F without issue. Any battery can freeze and possibly break if not kept at full charge though.
 
I,ve blown the lines w/ no problems for a few years now except for the shower mixing valve. I run the pump for a few minutes when flowing air through the lines
 
bike4mee said:
<snip>. I run the pump for a few minutes when flowing air through the lines
Thanks, I think I will try that. On my Airstream, I just disconnect the discharge line and run the pump. It's easier to get to than the FWC pump.
 
My Fleet has an Atwood 6-gallon water heater. The FWC manual says that "Atwood does NOT recommend that you remove the white plastic external drain plug from the water heater in order to drain it". But the Atwood manual says" Drain Water Heater Tank by removing the drain plug". Who to believe? Does the drain valve inside the camper (below the pump) drain the water heater as effectively as removing the outside drain plug?

Another thing I got from the Atwood manual, after stating to drain the tank by removing the drain plug: "The approximately two quarts of water remaining in the tank after draining will not cause damage to the tank should freezing occur".

So, it seems like draining the main tank, draining the water heater (either with the valve or by removing the plug), running the pump dry and then blowing out the pipes with (low pressure) air should be enough. Am I right?

Also, the IOTA charger with IQ4 (either supplied with that option by FWC or added by the owner) is designed to maintain the battery over time. So leaving it on over the winter is a good idea. The battery won't freeze if it's fully charged.

- Bernard
 
bfh4n said:
My brother says, instead of RV antifreeze, just pour in a bottle of cheap vodka.
Then I'll need some tomato juice, Tobasco and a celery stick when it comes time to drain it in the Spring!
 
bfh4n said:
What better way to celebrate the beginning of a new camping season?
Imagine the look on your fellow campers face when they find out that vodka comes out of your kitchen sink tap.
 
Fired up my factory Attwood furnace for the first time today other than during installation of the Hawk on my truck. Was met with much smoke alarm going off. I could smell heated paint & other new furnace odors. Had to open turnbuckle door & run the fan for quite a while before the screeching stopped. I guess I should have expected this with a new furnace. It sure does put out a lot of heat.

Second issue is that thermostat shows 56 degrees F while external laser thermometer shows in a range from 69 F on the front wall above window to 90 F on dark fridge door across from furnace. Front of thermostat housing is 78 F and wood adjacent to thermostat is 72 F.

I had to turn thermostat down to 54 F to get it to turn off.
Is there a way to calibrate the thermostat?

Paul
 
Spend $20 for a programable thermostat. I have an indoor/outdoor thermometer on my rear fold down panel. I do see a 5 or so degree difference between it and the temp on my thermostat.

Pic from my build thread.
cabinet+gages.jpg


Edit I got my indoor/outdoor thermometer on Black Friday at HD for $8.88 it is just around the corner.
 
Back
Top Bottom