Wiring Camper to Truck

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

I was actually responding to the "don't get a battery isolator" which is what my unit was called. Thanks for clearing all this up. I am so pleased with this whatever it is. I like the fact that it will charge both batteries under the right conditions with my solar panel.

Back in the thread about the recall of the sure power,posts were referring to units called isolators, as not to get.It sounds like a "word" thing.

I guess the ignorant is bliss thing applies to me when it comes to electrical things, I am pretty blissful.

I hope all these posts have helped the member who started the post.

Thanks to all for clearing this up and shedding some light on an important subject.
Frank

 

[pods8]

What is the reason for staying away from the "diode isolators"?
Frank



I was actually responding to the "don't get a battery isolator"


You left out a key word, diode, on your recollection of what you were responding to.

But yes, hopefully a good thread all around.

 

[Desert Rancher]

Rancher, They look fine to me too. However, the Blue Seas unit selected is a dual sense while the BEP unit selected is a single sense. That may or may not make a difference to you. BEP does offer a dual sense in the same form factor.

Say that you have solar and you want the solar to top off the truck battery too. As I understand it you need a dual sense version to do this. This so that which ever battery is being charged, the VSR/ACR allows that battery to reach it's full charge state before connecting the other battery to the charging source. Going down the road the alternator will charge the starting battery full first and then the relay/switch will close and allow the alternator to charge the camper battery. Next, you've been in camp for a couple of days when the sun comes out and the solar starts to charge the camper battery. A single sensing switch/relay won't detect this, but a dual sensing switch/relay will see it and will wait until the camper battery is fully charged before closing and connecting the starting battery to the solar system.
Once the charging source is removed (engine turned off, night time, etc.) either sense type will open and keep the batteries separate until another charging source appears.



Diesel has 2 starting batt's and 1 aux in the camper.

"Dual Sense"****
I believe that is my concern. Since I run 50W solar, I was concerned the the "dual sense" may connect and try to charge all 3 batteries at once.

But if it tops off just the aux first, and then, sends the excess current to the 2 truck batteries, that is great!

Also looking at in line Maxi-fuse holders at 60A vs ANL's.

 

[ntsqd]

You don't have a diode isolator based on the part number above. You've got what we've been saying, not what you've been saying.

And that is a good thing.

DR, I would cable and fuse just above maximum alternator output. As a guess, somewhere in the 110A to 120A range, but check your alternator as it's max output should be stamped or printed on it somewhere. My reasoning is two-fold; it is possible that the camper battery could someday see that high of a rate of charge, and by going a little big on your cabling you minimize the voltage drop to the camper battery.

Also, and this just occurred to me - realize that the wire is live from both ends when whatever isolation device is switched on, but always live from the camper end. Technically total protection will require a fuse at both ends of the camper charge cable. Or you could employ one of the constant duty solenoids next to the camper battery to 'kill' the charge cable when the ignition is off.

 

[Desert Rancher]

Technically total protection will require a fuse at both ends of the camper charge cable.


Most definitely. I always fuse both ends.

I purchased the dual sense, not a bad price for what is does:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130617710209?item=130617710209&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr