Yakima tracks fastener question

M

meandmydog

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2016
Messages
20
Location
Farmington, NM
I have a question on what is the best way to attach cross bars to Yakima tracks. I am installing 2 100 watt solar panels on the roof of my camper. I've got the tracks installed and I'm using 1" square aluminum tubing for cross bars. The solar panels are through bolted to the 1" square with 1/4" stainless steel bolts with lock washers. That's all good. My big agonizing question is how to attach the 1" square tubing to the Yakima tracks. I bought 1-1/2" and 2" stainless steel bolts and planned on through bolting into the "A" nuts that are designed to run in the track. The 1-1/2" only engage a couple of threads so they're too short. The 2" bottom out in the bottom of the track before tightening up but I could put a 1/4" spacer under the bolt head to take up the slack. My main question is how to make sure the bolts don't vibrate loose going down the road. I planned on using Lock tight thread lock blue or red. I've thought about putting a flat washer and a lock washer under the head of the bolt in addition to the thread lock. I've read on this blog and others where people put bolts in the tracks upside down like elevator bolts or others. I kind of like this idea because then you can put a lock nut on top and don't have to worry about the bolt bottoming out in the bottom of the track and not having a lock nut.

So I would like to see what all of the people here have used in the real world. I'm sure there are some great ideas that have been used for thousands of miles. I really need to be certain that my solar panels don't loosen up and come flying off going down the highway.

Here's a picture of my setup. Thanks in advance for all the advise.
IMG_1894.JPG
 
One more quick question I forgot to include in my original post. Does anyone know what the little black plastic/nylon spacers/washers are that come packaged with the "A" nuts and bolts from Yakima. Are they suppose to be some sort of a lock washer? I can't see putting them under the bolt head and tightening down on them. I would think they would just get crushed and then you wouldn't have a tight connection. Any ideas?
 
You can shorten the bolts with a hacksaw - just thread a nut all the way down before you cutoff to whatever length you want. Removing the nut will re-thread the end of the bolt. It always works for me. Generally locktite is sufficient but I'd tighten the bolts from time to time. Good luck!
 
BobM, That's the fasteners I bought. Did you use the little black plastic washers/spacers or just the metal flat washers? Any loctite or lock washers?
 
BobM, did you add a couple of nuts to the top of the bolt just for spacers between the bolt head and whatever you were attaching to the tracks? did't quite follow you on that.
 
I don't think I used the plastic washers and not sure about Loctite. The nuts on top are double locked and also compensate for the bolt length
 
I would echo Ronin on this one, or just go get some shorter bolts. Took me a few trips to the hardware store to accomplish the same goal for my MaxTrax.
 
I'm concerned about the possibility of the bolts smashing the square tubing as you tighten them. You didn't mention the thickness of the tube walls. I would put round spacers around the bolts inside the tubing. For example: If the 1" tubing walls are 1/8", get some 1/2" diameter by 3/4" long aluminum spacers (with 1/4" hole). You can buy them from McMaster-Carr.

My other concern is how well those square Yakima nuts will grab the track and hold your collectors down in the face of strong wind load or a tree branch. When I built a similar setup for my Fleet, I got some 3/16' thick by 3/4' wide stainless bar stock (McMaster-Carr, again) and made my own "nuts" about 4" long, to spread the load. I had to tap the threaded hole in the middle. I think it would be pretty hard to pull the track off the roof (screwed down avery 6" or so), but I don't know how easily the little OEM nuts could be ripped out of the track. More attachment points could help, too. Maybe another crosspiece or two (my rig has four total).

In terms of keeping the bolts tight, the spacers described above will keep the tubing from deforming and prevent the bolts from coming loose for that reason. Loktite is always good. If you use the spacers, you don't need washers to spread the load, just lock washers. Make sure the bolts are tightening against your tubes and not bottoming out in the track, but they also have to go all the way through the nuts. You can saw them off, as described above, to get them just right. Sometimes you have to fiddle around a bit with a file or grinder to fix the first thread after you saw a bolt (or use a die).

- Bernard
 
I really like your plan of mounting two panels side by side, or north/south so to speak.I've been thinking about this myself. In my case it would allow two panels in front, both roof vents, and a small rack in the rear, for lighter items. You have a small container it appears to be on the rear. Hopefully those who have made this happen will chime in. Thanks for that.

Maybe aluminum angle 1 x 1-1/2 x 1/4 would be stiffer and then no chance of collapsing ?


Rock.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. Thanks Bernard for the info on the square tubing possibly being crushed or collapsing. I assumed it would be plenty strong enough. I got the idea from I think Sunman put some racks up on his roof with the same material. He didn't use the Yakima racks, just screwed it straight to the roof. He cut the ends at a 45 deg angle so the attachment point was only through the bottom side, not the top and bottom. I wanted to leave the ends extending out a couple of inches on both end for strength. I may try to get some spacers like Bernard suggested but I might have to cut an inch off each end to be able to reach inside. Here's a close up picture.

IMG_1895.JPG

I only have the black plastic spacers on there to see how they worked. I don't plan on using them. I think I'll just put a stainless steel lock washer under the bolt head, cut 1/4" off the threaded end, try to put a aluminum spacer in the middle like Bernard suggested, and use blue loctite thread locker. I see lots of installs where everyone is using the Yakima factory nuts in the tracks. They should be engineered strong enough to withstand the wind. That's one reason why I started this discussion. I wanted to see if anyone had a failure using them with solar panels.
 
I used 1x1x1x1/8" Z formed alum. and mounted them East/West. Fit nicely between the Here are my pics from this weekend.




 
Attach these to your cross bars and you'll never have to worry about your panels departing the roof. Provides two Yakima attachment points. I get my aluminum products at onlinemetals.com. Good luck.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0085.JPG
    IMG_0085.JPG
    58.5 KB · Views: 188
Nice looking set up meandmydog
If you didn't know you can get plastic inserts for the square tube to finish it off. Metal supply companies have them. Maybe Home Depot has them they sell small quantities of metal. Might try the last posters onlinemetals suggestion.
Russ
 
BrianG said:
Attach these to your cross bars and you'll never have to worry about your panels departing the roof. Provides two Yakima attachment points. I get my aluminum products at onlinemetals.com. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Do you have a link to the exact part(s) you used? Looks very clean.
 
ETAV8R, I made these brackets, I purchased 3/8"x3"x5" 6061 plate aluminum from onlinemetals.com, they cut them to this size. I cut the final shape on my woodworking bandsaw. I routed the edges with a carbide bit and then polished them. One note: these keep your panels nice and low on the roof with plenty of airflow underneath, yet high enough to plug into my standard FWC SAE solar roof plug.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0083.JPG
    IMG_0083.JPG
    59.5 KB · Views: 110
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads - WTW

G
New Build in Progress
Casa Escarlata Robles Too
Casa Escarlata Robles Too
T
2019 FWC Hawk
Tim79
T
B
Rear door woes and a fix
Wandering Sagebrush
Wandering Sagebrush
Z
For Sale 2014 10' Alaskan and 2008 Ford F-350 Super Duty Rear Wheel
Zingpow
Z
F
Project M Interior Build 1st Gen Tundra
Casa Escarlata Robles Too
Casa Escarlata Robles Too

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom