Yellowstone to Portland Need to find some adventure

Ethergore

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Southern California
What's up WTW'ers.

I need some help sneaking in some good off road action into my upcoming trip. My wife and I are taking a 17 day trip from our hometown Redlands, CA to Yellowstone NP and then over to Portland, OR and back home.

My wife requires a fair amount of city and main stream sight seeing to remain happy. Hence the main destinations. I on the other hand need some good adventure snuck in wherever possible.

With that said my plan is as follows. Make the long drive from redlands to salt lake city where we will spend the evening and most of the next day camping the night away at Walmart because I'm a cheapskate. That second night I have my one and only reservation at half Moon lake, a short distance from Yellowstone NP. I plan to wake up early the third day and snag a first come, first served camp spot for the time I will be in Yellowstone. We are not sure how long we will be here but plan to play it by ear.

Now, this is the part where I need help. From Yellowstone we will make our way towards Portland. This is where I am hoping to sneak in my adventure. Assuming we spend 1 day driving home from Portland, 2 days in Portland, the 3 days I killed getting to Yellowstone and, at most, 4 days in Yellowstone/Tetons I have 7 days to make my way from Yellowstone to Portland.

What do all of you recommend to add some good off roading to my trip? Any suggestions on my plan in general would be great as well. I prefer passes that keep me in somewhat the same direction if possible.

Thanks in advance for the tips.
 
When you say "off roading" do you mean "off pavement" -- routes to take your camper on dirt/gravel roads?
Or are you asking about places to drive an ATV/jeep/dirt-bike-motorcycle?

Have you read the trip planning thread that I started:

ID-MT-WY?: Desert Rat Venturing Outside His Comfort Zone Seeks Input
There are some dirt/gravel-road routes suggested there that are in the area more-or-less between Yellowstone and Portland.
 
I guess I should have been more specific. I'm interested in doing some fairly tough off roading. More than just fire roads. I don't want to be winching or paddling through snow but I'd like something fairly technical.

Preferably something with disbursed camping along the way.
 
Hmmm...can't help you there then. I don't know anything about rock-crawling routes and that kind of stuff.
But others here do....good luck.
:)
 
Look at paralleling south of I-90 interstate on the state routes. You can work your way across northern Idaho, South Valley road (100 miles of dirt) past Red Rock Lakes and Lima L. or southern Montana and the mining towns on pavement. There's so much to see you don't really need anyone telling you what route to take. It's all good, just head west.
Someone will mention the Magruder Corridor route. Boring, not as much to see as going north of there on Hwy 12 out of Hamilton, Mt. or south thru Salmon, Stanly and Mcall, Id. Farther west you'll find the Snake River Canyon a major north/south obstacle. Going North thru Lewiston,Id./Clarkston,Wa. has more towns and you follow Lewis and Clarks route to Portland. The south crossing of the Snake at Oxbow does stay more rual and divide the center part of Oregon all the way to I-5.
If you go by Mcall, Id. go north to Burgdorf,Id. and on to the Snake River Rd. to Rigging,Id. You'll never forget that route. Kinda like the Beartooth Pass out of Cooke City, Wyo. but on a one lane dirt road.
 
Soughdough- that looks like a great tip. Looks like I can leave from west Yellowstone and take red Rock road to south valley road like you were saying and get all the way through to the 15.

I'm still doing some studying but that looks pretty sweet already.

Thanks!
 
Head into Merriam Lake. You basically go East from Sun Valley/Ketchum or however you want to get to Mackey or mt. Borah in Idaho. Once you make the turn towards the lake, the road is pretty technical. There is dispersed camping along the way but also a good spot near the trailhead to the Lake. Hike to the Lake is about 2 miles (first mile is pretty flat, last 1/2 mile pretty steep). I can give more detailed info if it's something you think you'd like.
 
Ethergore,

As noted, with the exception of the Magruder, it's either ultimately south towards Boise or north towards Lolo Pass on US 12 or Lookout Pass along I-90. Approximately 3 million acres of combined Bitterroot-Selway and Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness plus the steep canyons of the Snake River headwaters is a big wall in the middle.

Although I've never driven it east of I-15 (but look out 2015!) I'd favor a route from Henry Lake, ID (near West Yellowstone, MT), Centennial Valley, Monida, Dell, Big Sheep Creek Byway, MT 324, Reservoir Creek Rd, Skinner Meadows, Big Hole, Big Hole Pass (one of several so named in SW Montana, this one immediately south of Lost Trail Pass, connecting the Big Hole to US 93 in ID, just south of MT 43/Lost Trail Pass). From there, you can slab it north on US 93 to Darby, MT (cute, touristy), then Hamilton, turn back east on MT 38 over Skalkaho Pass (not technical, but whoever is in the passenger seat may never speak to you again), to FS 102, Rock Creek Road, thence north through a dozen or so miles of ranch land before the canyon narrows and passes 41 miles, all but 10 of them gravel, to I-90 around 20 miles east of Missoula. Pretty much the whole distance from where the canyon narrows to the 10 MP just south of I-90 is either Beaverhead or Lolo NF. There are a good half-dozen small NF primitive CGs and virtually unlimited disbursed camping, streamside, for about a 30 mile stretch.

Treat the Lady to a night in Missoula afterwards.

Departing Missoula to the west, consider US 12 over Lolo Pass to the Lolo Motorway, the ridge-running route aka the Nez Perce Trail (where the Magruder is aka the Southern Nez Perce Trail, by the way). The Nez Perce Trail was the actual route used by Lewis and Clark on the Pacific side of the Divide, from Lolo to the big pond and back, as the Lochsa and Clearwater canyons were too steep and knarly to use as trails. The Motorway ends somewhere in the rough vicinity of Clearwater, ID, I believe.

Foy
 
Those are some great recommendations. Very thought out. Thanks for the time you all have taken.

I was wondering what you guys think of weather as a factor as well. I'm from hot southern CA and want as much cool, not cold, weather as possible.
 
Ethergore said:
Soughdough- that looks like a great tip. Looks like I can leave from west Yellowstone and take red Rock road to south valley road like you were saying and get all the way through to the 15.

I'm still doing some studying but that looks pretty sweet already.

Thanks!
It's an interesting route because of the wide openness, not a lot of anything but long vista's. I drove it west to east about 5 years ago in Tacoma 2wd pre-runner.The road was mostly a wet(muddy) slipe and slide. I had to keep the speed up and really had me white knuckling most of the way. Fun stuff. Anyway if you go that route it dumps you onto I-15 and there ain't much there. FYI, If you go rural routes, I recommend trying to keep a half tank of gas. Forget the price, try and keep it 1/2 tank at least, so you can always turn around. You might have too.
 
Good point. I'll keep that in mind. I had to turn around on engineer pass in Colorado last year for just that reason. Didn't plan on going so far and had no GPS to tell me how much further I had. Didn't want to head back to Silverton and pay the price but ended up having to get a tank full and back track.
 
Foy- I just got about halfway through studying your post. This is so well thought out. Have you don't this trek or how did you get it so detailed?

Thanks!!!
 
Ethergore said:
Those are some great recommendations. Very thought out. Thanks for the time you all have taken.

I was wondering what you guys think of weather as a factor as well. I'm from hot southern CA and want as much cool, not cold, weather as possible.
The Red Rock Pass/Centennial Valley/Big Sheep Creek/Reservoir/Big Hole/Big Hole Pass route has a low point of about 5,200' and the great majority of it is over 6,500'. If you like cool weather, elevation is your friend. On a sunny July/August day along the ID border in MT, it can be hot--well into the 90s. I'd expect night-time temps in the low to mid-50s, sometimes lower..

Foy
 
Ethergore said:
Foy- I just got about halfway through studying your post. This is so well thought out. Have you don't this trek or how did you get it so detailed?

Thanks!!!
Ethergore,

I've been all over the upper Big Hole River drainage (the Big Hole Valley itself and most major tributaries, with particularly detailed emphasis on the upper Big Hole in the vicinity of Jackson, MT), the Grasshopper Creek drainage above Bannack, Horse Prairie drainage, the Wise River drainage, and all over the East and West Pioneers. This goes back to a geology school field mapping course based in Dillon, MT in 1978. Exploration background now includes 4WD-based vacations in 1980, 1982, 2000, 2002, 2010, and 2011. I've made only one "traverse" south and east of Dillon, that being an up and back drive along I-15 entering from ID to reach the Grasshopper Valley and the return trip 2 weeks later. All I "know" about the Centennial Valley and Big Sheep Creek are from (many hours of) map study and reading trip reports with pictures on the Interwebs.

There is a well-written and photographed trip report from the Gravelly Range, the massif forming much of the north wall of the Centennial Valley, over on ExPo/Completed Expeditions. The scenery depicted there is similar across much of SW Montana.

Oh, and I erred above: Looks like the low point between Red Rock Pass and Big Hole Pass is more like 6,350' near Grant, MT, so I'd say most of the traverse is at or above 6,500' with much of the Centennial Valley at or close to 7,000'. The Big Hole itself was not homesteaded until the late 1800s, and only then by hardy Swiss emigrants, due to the exceptionally difficult winters at that elevation, allowing only a single cutting of hay each summer.

Foy
 
Foy- in your first post you recommended going from the 324 to Skinner Meadows to big hole and then to the 93 if I understand correctly. Im trying to set up a Google map and I found a route from 324 to Skinner Meadows but can't locate the right big hole and also can't find any way to connect the 324 to the 93 without backtracking to the lewis and Clark trail trail South West of Skinner Meadows.

Is there a route I'm missing on Google maps or did I misunderstand your path or did you summer I would double back? What were your thoughts?

Also if there is not a through trail should I make it a point to get to big hole and if so would you mind providing some GPS coordinates?

Thanks!!

Also here is the map I was trying to work out:

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/44.6035242,-111.4060468/Centennial+Valley/Montana+324,+Dillon,+Mt+59725/44.9754476,-113.4786134/Darby,+Mt/Hamilton,+Mt/Skalkaho+Pass/46.5556619,-113.713987/46.8730761,-113.9847952/@44.7069715,-112.2326033,11z/data=!4m46!4m45!1m0!1m5!1m1!1s0x5350d4f20f6a1453:0x839d518aeca89899!2m2!1d-112.3494439!2d44.6435236!1m5!1m1!1s0x53575d4eab23d7db:0x7c3284c87d517764!2m2!1d-113.0365361!2d45.0013498!1m5!3m4!1m2!1d-113.9535797!2d45.8091706!3s0x535915be8498ec21:0xc232a6236ff1438b!1m5!1m1!1s0x5359331c3f5c6ac3:0x1f0419df93da9196!2m2!1d-114.1731427!2d46.0215872!1m10!1m1!1s0x5359331c3f5c6ac3:0x5adf3d9ad182397b!2m2!1d-114.1548161!2d46.2471437!3m4!1m2!1d-113.8544022!2d46.214316!3s0x535eab86921bb2f3:0x2988c6d6f7d5f80d!1m5!1m1!1s0x535eaa7213c778eb:0x3e98acd21997a713!2m2!1d-113.7734175!2d46.2457553!1m0!1m0!3e0
 
Glad to help, Ethergore,

I'm not a user of digital mapping software to any real degree. Not exactly a digital illiterate, but closer to that category than I'd like to be. I was raised and trained on paper maps and at age 59, I still hold a great attraction to them. So while I can't give you a gps track, offer further suggestions as noted below.

Following your track on a Google Map, I see your descent from Red Rock Pass into the Centennial Valley takes the North Valley Road and runs it all the way to LIma. There's nothing wrong with that, and Lima is rather more of a town and resupply/fuel point than Monida is. The route across the Centennial Valley I've read most about, however, is along South Valley Road, aka MT or Beaverhead County Route 509. I believe South Valley Road is more along the foot of the mountains forming the Continental Divide and is somewhat higher up than North Valley Road, providing long vistas across the Upper and Lower Red Rock lakes and the Lima Reservoir. I haven't a clue which of the two may be more enjoyable to one's tastes and preferences, however. Anyhow, South Valley Road connects to I-15 at Monida, so Lima is just north a piece for fuel, food, etc. I think there is a very nice and fairly new Interstate Rest Stop at Lima, too.

FWIW, my initial suggestion intended to mention slabbing up I-15 from Monida to Dell @ MP 23, thence taking the Big Sheep Creek Scenic Byway through and along the Tendoy Range up to connect to MT 324 west of Clark Canyon Reservoir. The BSC byway is, however, another 55 miles of graded gravel and two track, and would thus take maybe 4 hours as opposed to simply slabbing I-15 to MT 324 @ MP 44. You can't really go wrong on I-15 along through there, either, as it's a beautiful drive in and of itself.

Down to the meat of your question: The suggested route from Grant, MT over to US 93. Your track shows MT 324 running all the way to Lemhi Pass. This is incorrect, as today's MT 324 turns south a handful of miles past Grant and crosses into ID at Bannock Pass, thence down ID 29 (?) to Leadore, ID on ID 28. From MT 324 to Lemhi Pass is simply Lemhi Pass Rd. There's nothing wrong with Lemhi Pass, of course. It's one of my favorite sites in all of ID and MT. You can literally feel the vibe of Lewis & Clark's ascent and see for yourself the view to the west, which to their horror was mountains as far as one can see. But crossing into ID at Lemhi Pass causes you to miss the Big Hole, and we can't have that, can we?

So, to snake your way into the Big Hole, first pass Bannack Bench Rd running north off of MT 324 a shade east of Grant (which, by the way, does not actually exist--a closed-down store and a few houses and mobile homes--no goods or services as of 2011, anyway). You'll soon pass Mansfield Rd on the R and MT 324 will start to swing from about due W to the SW as you pass a prominent peak named Red Butte. You'll quickly arrive at Lemhi Pass Road on the right, and a very nice and informative parking area and viewpoint is on the opposite side of the road, calling attention to this as being the intersection of the Lewis & Clark route and Chief Joseph's route as he and the Nez Perce fled the Battle of the Big Hole some 40 miles to the north. Turn R onto Lemhi Pass Rd, but turn R at the "Y" within about 3/4 mile onto Brenner Road. Follow Brenner Rd for a couple of miles, past some very nice ranches, to Bloody Dick Road, on your L (I am NOT making this up--a particularly violent area settler named Richard was nicknamed Bloody Dick). Come to think of it, you may not actually see a sign for Bloody Dick Road, as I think Beaverhead County and the USFS tired or replacing the stolen ones decades ago. Anyway, Bloody Dick Road ascends the creek of the same name and enters FS lands, finally reaching Reservoir Lake and its FS campground some 15-18 miles from MT 324. You'll continue past the small lake and its CG (a very nice overnight spot, by the way) and will go through Big Hole Pass (one of several), thus transitioning from the Beaverhead River Drainage to the Big Hole River drainage. Soon you'll pass Skinner Meadows and Skinner Lake, site of the year 2000 Rainbow Family Gathering, by the way, and continuing northerly past the Van Houten NF CGs along what is now named Skinner Meadows Road will bring you to Jackson, MT and MT 278 (paved), in the very heart of the upper Big Hole.

I have searched for and not found a route paralleling the snowcapped Beaverhead Mountains along the west wall of the Big Hole from Skinner Meadows to Gibbonsville Rd, so to the best of my knowledge, you've got to pop out on MT 278 at or near Jackson at some point. And that's OK, because Jackson is comprised almost solely of the Jackson Hot Springs Resort, a nice motel w/ cabins and campsites, a very nice bar and restaurant, and an outdoor swimming pool fed by the natural hot springs waters. Have a look, they're on the Interwebs.

Again referring to my initial suggestion, there is a Gibbonsville Road running southwest off of MT 43 a short distance west of Wisdom, MT, where MT 278 ends in a T junction with MT 43. I think Gibbonsville Road can be accessed from Twin Lakes Road, which turns west off of MT 278 a little over halfway between Jackson and Wisdom. Gibbonsville Road ascends the north fork of the Big Hole River, re-enters NF lands at the base of the Beaverhead Range, crosses into ID at Big Hole Pass, and descends sharply into ID where the name changes to Daholega Creek Rd, ending at US 93 at Gibbonsville, ID, maybe 10 miles south of Lost Trail Pass, where US 93 returns to MT for the drive up through Darby to Hamilton and MT 38 over to Skalkaho Pass. You will see that simply remaining on MT 278 to MT 43 also brings you to Lost Trail pass, with the added attraction of passing by the Big Hole National Battlefield, a sobering place to visit if there ever was one. There is a May Creek campground in the NF between Wisdom and Lost Trail Pass, and it, too, is a fine overnight stop.

Just on the south side of Hamilton, MT, your track correctly picks up my suggested route up MT 38, passing Skalkaho Falls, to Skalkaho Pass, over into the Rock Creek drainage, thence north on Rock Creek Rd, FS 102, at the base of the Sapphire Range which you just crossed. You will note FS 102 takes a left just before a bridge over Rock Creek, where going straight for a few miles on paved MT 348 brings you to Philipsburg, a delightful town. FS 102 then continues generally north, just as your track follows, for 41 miles to I-90. The mileposts count down from 41 at the bridge to 0 at I-90, and the pavement begins at about the MP 10.

If I were to follow this entire route, I'd be sure to start with a full fuel tank at West Yellowstone and top off at Lima and Jackson or Wisdom, then again in Hamilton, where a lower price fuel stop is a couple or three miles north of the MT 38 turn-off, right in the middle of Hamilton's downtown.

I hope this is helpful, and I most certainly hope you'll post a trip report, regardless of your final routing choices.

Any further questions, fire away.

Foy
 
Foy is pretty thorough, here are a couple of thoughts I have. The North and South Centennial roads are both pretty good traveling. South is faster and straighter through the valley. The north road goes through the Sand Hills and has some really nice dispersed camping on BLM and State ground (check your maps!) with great views of the Centennial Range to the south. The Upper Lakes CG along the south road is also nice and you are right underneath the Centennial Range.
There used to be an old road that ran along the base the Beaverheads, but I think it is now closed by private landowners and was getting really rough anyhow. Connecting the Gibbonsville road with FS roads to the south is pretty good and can get you down around the Selway Mtn and Bloody Dick Creek country. Great places.
 
We're actually heading up to the Lewis and Clark Lolo Motorway tomorrow. Not taking the FWC and the road was just opened a few days ago. We're going to mountain bike it with support vehicle. We rode a portion of it last year and it's a pretty good dirt road; lots of history along it though.
 

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