1988 Four Wheel Camper Grandby renovation and Tundra Fit

shellback said:
I rebuilt my 79Grandby a couple years ago. I took it down to the aluminum skeleton and threw everything away except the roof, windows and door. Started the rebuild with the floorpack, once the frame was back on the floorpack, I'd sit there and dream and to figure out how I wanted the project to look once done. There were many days when I wish I never started the project, but I soldiered on and finally finished it. The only thing I didn't do myself was the aluminum welding. I probably have close to 3k in it, but it's built out how I want it. I sided mine with smooth painted .032 aluminum and fastened with VHB tape everywhere windows, trim and the door fasteners weren't there to hold. The lift panels I made from aluminum composite material. Reflecting on that now, I might have liked the conduit style lift better. With those you can have windows fore and aft. Plus you wouldn't be trapping moisture behind the solid lift panels. I never sewed before, but picked up a commercial machine cheap and made my fabric sides and recovered all the cushions. I was a heavy equipment operator by trade, and was never known for fine craftsmanship. I used to kid people that I did my trim work with a chainsaw and a sledge. That wasn't much of an exaggeration! I'd have to believe that you could never recoup your investment so far without finishing it, or at least getting it closed in a weather proof like a shell. I say soldier on!
Click to expand...
Thanks, Yes, the alum skin was a tough find, but I finally found a source for 4x8x.035 alum in Denver for $40 a sheet. Doable, but a long drive. Did you use some fasteners, or VHB for all? I have a friend that works at an RV repair facility, and he said VHB for all, no fasteners.
I also stupidly tossed all the cushions, so no templates, aha
 
Ourayphotography said:
Did you build your own canvas? After reading everyone's canvas rebuilds, I think you all had no choice but to become expert!
Click to expand...
Yeah, my wife has a light-duty sewing machine so I bought the supplies and made it work. It's not installed yet, but came out pretty good. I'm only into it probably $350 for materials. Your canvas looks like it's in quite a bit better shape than mine was...

Some of the guides I've seen for making the canvas seem overly complicated with lots of folds and junk. If you keep it simple without any hemmed edges and keep each window panel separate, then the whole thing is a lot more manageable. Just cut, glue everything possible to hold it in place and pin what can't be glued, and then stitch it together.

The two things I"m splurging on are a new door (already purchased) and new metal for the roof. I'm fortunate that I was able to re-use all of the existing siding... If I'd wanted to change out windows and stuff.

I suppose that if you wanted to reign in the costs a bit, you could keep your siding and use FRP (fiber reinforced panel) for the lower sections that you built. I'd wager that it would look really good if you tucked it into the lip on the existing siding and painted both old and new to match with new white paint. You can use a tube of 3M 5200 adhesive and spare pieces of aluminum to patch any holes in your existing siding.

  • Lift panels: $45 for conduit & parts.
  • Canvas (diy) $400
  • FRP missing siding: $50
  • New Entry door: $500
  • New fancy roof vents: 2 x $160
  • Used cab window: <$100

Not sure what's needed for your roof... but at this point you could be looking at $1500 remaining costs, maybe a bit more if you replace the roof.

I think you'll be glad if you push through and finish it up! You have so much work into it already.
 
Ourayphotography said:
Thanks, Yes, the alum skin was a tough find, but I finally found a source for 4x8x.035 alum in Denver for $40 a sheet. Doable, but a long drive. Did you use some fasteners, or VHB for all? I have a friend that works at an RV repair facility, and he said VHB for all, no fasteners.
I also stupidly tossed all the cushions, so no templates, aha
Click to expand...
I used the VHB where ever there weren't going to be other fasteners. So the corners and edges where there is trim with screws, windows etc,I used butyl tape there. For info on sewing and making cushions, go to the sailrite website, https://www.sailrite.com/ They have very good videos and just about all the materials you would need. I think I got my vinyl from "mytarp", much cheaper than sailrite. If you are needing a door, Emmitt Door in Emmitt ID, can make any size you want. I think mine cost me about $250 and almost have of that was shipping. I'm on the east coast. Here's my build thread if it can be any help to you. http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/13966-1979-granby/
 
shellback said:
I used the VHB where ever there weren't going to be other fasteners. So the corners and edges where there is trim with screws, windows etc,I used butyl tape there. For info on sewing and making cushions, go to the sailrite website, https://www.sailrite.com/ They have very good videos and just about all the materials you would need. I think I got my vinyl from "mytarp", much cheaper than sailrite. If you are needing a door, Emmitt Door in Emmitt ID, can make any size you want. I think mine cost me about $250 and almost have of that was shipping. I'm on the east coast. Here's my build thread if it can be any help to you. http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/13966-1979-granby/
Click to expand...
Wow, I thought I had seen your project here, but evidently not. Absolute stellar completion! It honestly looks better than a new unit. Hard to even wrap my head around getting that far. Have you used it a lot since your completion post? I need to go back and see how long the whole thing took.
So your custom door was $250 + a lot of ship? Thanks!
 
The door on my 88' was in really rough shape too. I was able to completely rebuild mine for about the cost of a pressure treated 2x6 and some stainless screws. If most the components are already there reframing it to better than original is a few hour project. good luck
 
Ourayphotography said:
Wow, I thought I had seen your project here, but evidently not. Absolute stellar completion! It honestly looks better than a new unit. Hard to even wrap my head around getting that far. Have you used it a lot since your completion post? I need to go back and see how long the whole thing took.
So your custom door was $250 + a lot of ship? Thanks!
Click to expand...
WyoIDI said:
The door on my 88' was in really rough shape too. I was able to completely rebuild mine for about the cost of a pressure treated 2x6 and some stainless screws. If most the components are already there reframing it to better than original is a few hour project. good luck
Click to expand...
$147 for the door with window and lock set, and $107 shipping.
 
Ourayphotography said:
I called them thanks. Do you like the quality?
Click to expand...
I think the quality is fine. Nothing fancy, but as good or better than what FWC used originally. I bet I spent 2 days trying to make something out of the mess that was left of my original.
 
Wow,
well I just read comments that FWC floors are not strong enough or designed to camp in on the legs alone and not in the truck supported? True?
 
I've been following that tread (threads?) too. Yeah, that's what I've read consistently & it makes sense... they just staple the bottom plywood up into the sides; it'll flex in the middle and could pull away from the sides w/ weight or impact. And The aluminum in the framing at each corner would need to be made heavier to support additional weight if it was to be supported by the jack stands w/ people in it and moving around...
 
Ourayphotography said:
Wow,
well I just read comments that FWC floors are not strong enough or designed to camp in on the legs alone and not in the truck supported? True?
Click to expand...
Absolutely true. It's been done before, but YMMV.
 
Ouray,

My 1981 floor pack was stapled together where the step is formed on each side, but screwed to the frame at all points they meet together with #8 hex head screws, holding the entire floor pack to the aluminum frame. When I rebuilt the floor pack, I used the same method of assembling the floor pack sides with 2" roofing staples (16 Gauge), along with the floor portion, and then screwing the floor pack as a whole to the frame with #10 1 1/2" hex head screws about every 4 inches. It is very stout, but because I always heard warnings to not step on the floor pack unsupported, I never have. I also chose to use 5/8" plywood for the floor pack to reduce weight, which means it would have some sag if I were to step in with it unsupported. Doing it again, I've wondered about going with 3/4" for even more durability, but not sure. Probably wouldn't add that much weight overall. Just my $.02 worth.

Poky
 
PokyBro said:
Ouray,

My 1981 floor pack was stapled together where the step is formed on each side, but screwed to the frame at all points they meet together with #8 hex head screws, holding the entire floor pack to the aluminum frame. When I rebuilt the floor pack, I used the same method of assembling the floor pack sides with 2" roofing staples (16 Gauge), along with the floor portion, and then screwing the floor pack as a whole to the frame with #10 1 1/2" hex head screws about every 4 inches. It is very stout, but because I always heard warnings to not step on the floor pack unsupported, I never have. I also chose to use 5/8" plywood for the floor pack to reduce weight, which means it would have some sag if I were to step in with it unsupported. Doing it again, I've wondered about going with 3/4" for even more durability, but not sure. Probably wouldn't add that much weight overall. Just my $.02 worth.

Poky
Click to expand...
Thanks Poky. Yes when I tore mine apart, I was surprised the mickey mouse construction. About half the original screws missed their target. Kind of a bummer they don't design to take weight, but prolly not common need.
I thought the floor was 2 sheets combined? Or was I remembering wrong? Thanks
 
Ouray,

Yes, two sheets of plywood should do it if you cut carefully and don't make any mistakes. Yours might be different with your different floor configuration.
 
Ourayphotography said:
I thought the floor was 2 sheets combined?
Click to expand...
Single 5/8 for mine, constructed as Porky described. Single 3/4 might be better but I think the simple butt joint with staples or brad nails might be more the weakness - not much "end grain" for the fastener and quite possibly embedded into a material weakened over time by contact with moisture (periodic re sealing/painting of the tub seems prudent for the older, single-coat-from-the-factory campers, tho I suspect not a common practice).

If concerned about the base, I'd consider building with a reinforced joint, incorporating a full length block inside or angle bracket outside.

Keep it up, we're all rooting for ya ! :LOL:
 
Thanks you guys, I was referring to the original floor. My new base eliminates it all, but still bouncing my head if a new model could be simply beefed up for load bearing. Hmm
 
^ I don't think it would be too hard. There's also the oem corner jack mounting points, IDK if FWC has a concern about them ...
 
klahanie said:
^ I don't think it would be too hard. There's also the oem corner jack mounting points, IDK if FWC has a concern about them ...
Click to expand...
Yes, I think they pick up the alum frame for the jack plates, and all the wood is weakly supported. Just screws through the side. Half my plan was to be able to camp when on jacks. Looks like a no go on a stock FWC
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads - WTW

J
••SOLD** For Sale: Four Wheel Camper Hawk and Toyota Tundra
Spitfire
S
4wheelColeman
The New Guy
m5040
M
B
2023 Tacoma TRD Off road & 1999 Ranger (8’ model)
Beach
B
T
2012 Four Wheel Camper Kestrel/Grandby
Wandering Sagebrush
Wandering Sagebrush
S
2018 Toyota Tundra **FOR SALE** / **SOLD** 2020 Four Wheel Camper Hawk, CO
Ramblinman
Ramblinman

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom