2016 Colorado tires

This is weird. If the nominal tire sizes are the same, any minuscule variation in diameter between brands will make zero difference. After all, tire diameter changes fractionally as the tire wears, and the onboard electronics must cope with that.

ABS sensors measure the difference in wheel rotational speed and would not be affected by a few millimeter difference in size.

TPMS monitors air pressure, period. The sensor has no idea what kind or size of tire is on the wheel. A Super Swamper at 35 psi looks the same to it as a Michelin Pilot Sport at 35 psi.

No anti-skid or stability-control system I know of would be affected by changing tires to a different brand or tread pattern if the size stayed constant.

Unless someone points out something of which I'm unaware, I think this is pure CYA nonsense on the part of the dealer or manufacturer.
 
I think you're right. However, you might run 35 in a Michelin Pilot and you might run 75 in a Michelin LTX A/T2. I'm guessing that changing tires is to change weight rating, but maybe not. The stock truck might have 110/C and the OP may want a better tire for hauling a camper (I would).
 
I'm pretty certain TPMS only alerts to under-inflation, so switching from a tire designed to run at 35 psi to one designed to run at 45 psi should make no difference. In my experience many people over-inflate E-rated tires simply because they read "80 psi maximum" on the side wall and assume they're supposed to be inflated to near that. In fact I've found that an E-rated tire rarely needs more than a few psi more than a C-rated tire to achieve proper inflation.

Also, as an aside, it's easy to forget that an E-rated tire does not invariably have a higher load rating. A larger size D-rated tire can have the same load rating as a smaller E-rated tire due to its greater volume of air.
 
buckland said:
TPMS Tire pressure...whoops.
Dealer says I void warranty on all the sensors if I use different tires!
Horse s---.
TPMS only reads air pressure, and PSI doesn't change.

The Colorado reads out TP for each tire in the DIC.

I don't know what psi range is in the DIC, but the Colorado Duramax has a 6200 GVW and you even if you change to a E rated tire, you will not run anywhere near the max tire pressure. Max psi on the tire side wall is for the max weight on the tire. Even if the tire is rated for 80 psi, you'd probably be only be running 45 psi on a loaded out Colorado anyway. If tried max psi, the truck would bounce like a ball, the tires would be over inflated and only the center of the tread would make contact, and unsafe.

I have had vehicles where I ran 35 psi on E tire (w/80 max on sidewall) because it was the proper tire setting for that vehicle's weight.
 
The OP listed a tire with a low load range, probably not a D and definitely not an E. It doesn't matter what pressure he/she runs (it does), it matters whether the tire matches the load. I don't think the tire listed by the OP will match the load. Maybe it will, but I doubt it.
 
I am a bit out of my league...but I REALLY appreciate the discussion as I want to learn. The Diesel Colorado and a 2011 Eagle camper (weight of which is below the the 1500 lb cargo) should be able to handle a E rated tire?... For help in this I will attach a pdf of all data on Coopers. Which one is best to match the size of the 255 65 17 OEM tires but with an appropriate load rating?
Strangely the tire I posted a photo of on page 1 is not listed ? A/T3 it is listed as 110T
 

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I just looked at the specs of the Colorado and E rated tires are overkill. Your truck isn't rated to carry the weight that would require E rated tires. You could still use them, but they may seem to give a stiff ride. I've used D and E tires on the same rig, heavier than yours, and I much prefer the ride of the E tires, but in your case, again, it's overkill. A good D rated tire, with a max rating of 3195 will probably give you a better ride and will be more than enough to cover your GAWR.
 
I like E rated tires for the stiffer sidewall - cornering and abrasion resistance, not just load. I drive on roads with sharp rocks and don't like to change tires. YMMV, of course.
 
Yep, I choose E for the same reason, but not everyone realizes that E rated tires impact the ride.
 
Well here are these 2 .... what would be the reason for a 75 over a 70?
 

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Well Ace,
We did come to an agreement on one thing, the E's are overkill for weigh cap.
On the Cooper list, The C tire only marginally beats the stock tires on my Colly..2337lb vs 2470lbs.
But I definitely take LT tires over P tires any day on a truck
I lean towards the 265s personally, But, go to the dealer and have them plug in a scan tool into the truck and read the different tires sizes that the ECM can be calibrated for, if you want to vary greatly from the original fitment. Also see what parameter the TPMS can be set to, if they can.
Load range Dia. weight rating
LT265/65R17 120\117R E OWL 7.5 - 9.5 8 10.7 30.51 8.7 3085 16
LT265/70R17 112\109S C OWL 7 - 8.5 8 10.6 31.57 8.62 2470 16.5
LT265/70R17 121\118S E OWL 7 - 8.5 8 10.9 31.65 8.62 3195 16.5
LT245/75R17 121\118S E OWL 6.5 - 7.5 7 10 31.5 7.64 3195 16
Info of the Colly's tires standard 2337 max pressure 51 PSI ( normal 35 per DIC)
If you do heavy offroading, E may the way to go. If you stay to graded road or pavement, maybe C.
Unfortunately, the chart does not have max tire pressure for the C & E, but IF I had to guess, it would be 60 &80 psi, and on a "blind" guess for the Colly loaded, I would think either the C OR E the TP would be set between 45 to 50 PSI, even though the E has a higher max pressure, your load has not changed.
That is only a guess and after fitment, road testing will tell you more, long with the complete tire specs
An old school way of seeing what TP is best is to park the vehicle on smooth, dry concrete and pour a liquid in front of the tires and drive over it enough to see what the tread pattern looks like..ex center heavy tread mark is over inflated, edge heavy pattern under inflated. You want a pattern that is even all the way across, showing max contact
 
Buck,

I'm guessing the dealer figured out that the tires he agreed to would reduce his profit. On my 2008 Frontier I changed tire sizes to a narrower slightly taller E rated tire to replace the POS passenger tires it came with. It had no affect on TPMS or the ABS. I would tell him to go pound sand and put on the tires you want.

The TPMS will operate fine for about 7 years when the batteries die, then you cover the annoying light with black tape and get on with life just like we did pre TPMS. As to the 75 vs 70 question a tire with the same treadwidth will be taller in a 75 versus the same tire in a 70.
255x.70=178.5, 255x,75=191.25
 
Rob, if I were you I'd take the truck with the stock tires, have them replaced at Discount or wherever, and sell the take-offs on Craigslist. Use the cash to buy a spare wheel to match the alloys you probably have on the corners. Done.

I'd love to hear how you like the truck and engine.
 
Stalking Light said:
I like E rated tires for the stiffer sidewall - cornering and abrasion resistance, not just load. I drive on roads with sharp rocks and don't like to change tires. YMMV, of course.
Yep. A D rated Toyo RT 37-12.50-17 has a substantially thinner more flexible sidewall and a 50 psi max.
An E rated Toyo MT,same size has a much sticker stiffer sidewall and a max psi of 65#.
I've a friend who insists on running BFG D rated 315's on his '05 qclb w/utilitybed and Callen camper. Sucker's in excess of 10K#.
Two tires have shredded in northern Baja aired down.
"But I get them for $195 wholesale from a friend."

A half ton and D rated Toyo 37 would be ideal,but on a heavy diesel truck?
 
Dealer is blowing smoke up your back side. As long as your running stock sized tires and the same model tire on all four corners your fine.

There are "computer" changes for larger tires, but I dont see that happening. I think the dealer is trying to skip out on the last part of the deal to pad his profit margin.
 
CALIcamperdad said:
Dealer is blowing smoke up your back side. As long as your running stock sized tires and the same model tire on all four corners your fine.

There are "computer" changes for larger tires, but I dont see that happening. I think the dealer is trying to skip out on the last part of the deal to pad his profit margin.
X2 ^^
 
and more. Just off the phone with the owner/dealer and he said he talked to 3 engineers all saying they can't adjust the speedometer and that it will be effected by the tire size change (not if I buy the 255 65 17...of which I can't find an E) but it will effect the 245 75 17 E
I asked for warranty in writing... they will get back to me.... scheeeze.
 
I think the stock tires on my Tacoma were 265 65 R17 and I switched to BFG AT 265 70 R17 E rated which are slightly larger but as near as I can tell from my GPS my speedo is right on the money.

I've always suspected that factory speedometer settings were a little high so they could inflate the mileage but I've never really tested it since the only vehicle I've had where I kept the 'factory' tires was my Land Rover D90.
 
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