2016 Colorado tires

exactimundo. ..... So all this hubbub is over a speedometer? wouldn't something like this fix that?
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2016-05-02 at 3.51.23 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2016-05-02 at 3.51.23 PM.png
    313.8 KB · Views: 94
Stock speedo setting are "optimistic" because they assume some people will get larger tires. After I went to slightly larger tires on my truck the speedo went from reading about 2mph high to dead on according to my GPS.
 
Buck,

Have you looked at 245 70 17? Tire rack lists 34 load range E tires in this size. Difference in diameter is 0.4 inches taller (30.5 vs 30.1) and 10 fewer revs per mile (661 vs 671). This difference is trivial.
 
Not much. Just an update... GM said sure finally with the case #. I get the tires I want. They tested the ABS in tight figure eights and no warning lights. The gps comparison with the 245 75 17 A/T3 E rated Coopers was 1.6 mph off at 40 mph... It can be adjusted by a tech center (not GM yet apparently) ....so if all goes well I will have the new diesel Colorado tomorrow.... then the camper base buildup to install on truck. At some point I will post photos of the camper on the truck. AND GM gave me a $500 accessory gift certificate for my 'troubles'.... not bad.
 
CALIcamperdad said:
Nice.. Good to hear GM doing the right thing.
I'm glad to hear that too. GMC is not in my good book.


Seeing it's sort of on topic I'll explain.
I brought my vehicle in 4 (four) times for an exhaust rattle under warranty. They added hose clamps to the heat shield, they cut the exhaust and added a flexible piece of exhaust, they added weights, but they never did fix the issue. I tried to get it repaired under my extended warranty but they said no. It was up to me to have got it repaired under the standard warranty period and they charged me $140 to tell me so.

Not impressed.

I did call GM customer retention, but they chose not to do anything for me other than say give us a call when you buy a new truck. Perhaps well give you a credit.
 
It's a crap shoot. I was the poster boy for Tacoma for frame replacement (only allowed after I showed I could stick a screw driver through the frame). It gets worse.... they switched my frame three times... really. Each time the body was 2" higher/lower on each side. They wanted to add washers to level!!! So including my original frame ...that was 4 frames....over a year. they could have bought me a new truck....
Dealership.... Car company... timing... who knows but after I went to 5 dealers to buy this truck I was pretty pissed about the bait and switch antics .... I found a dealer who is small and didn't lie to me... they said we can't do certain things and to get attention get a case # at GM... then they have to contact the dealer......I was finally lucky. A full tank of diesel and DEF, a paste waxing and a handshake goodbye.... is okay with me. It could be someone on the assembly line had a bad day... I will find out later. Right now it's the biggest purchase other than my house and I just hope it offers a few years of no headaches. (Plus it is a really sweet ride... test one out... it won me). "Ad astra per espera "
 
Bill Subarus are famous for exhaust shield rattles. Its also considered the most trusted Auto company today. LOL. All the things GM did are typical things we see Subaru owners do. Or many simply let them fall off and bingo no more rattle.

I wouldnt consider that a brand specific issue. Now the bad welds on the Yukon, and Sierra front suspension, should involve fired parts inspectors and a serious talk with the parts manufacturer.
 
Cali,
To add insult to injury, the 5th time that I had the exhaust looked at ($140), they told me that the rattle was not coming from the heat shield. It was in fact internal from the muffler. So the initial dealership misdiagnosed the issue.
5 trips to the dealerships and $140 later I have a chopped up exhaust and the same issue and GMC won't do anything for me even though I spent $2200 on an extended warranty.

I may never purchase GMC again, due to their lack of customer service.

I understand that nothing is perfect and I may have even experienced a less than perfect Customer Satisfaction rep.
Again, I'm glad that GMC took care of Buckland, because it's going to take quite a bit to restore my faith in GMC. I guarantee I will be calling their customer service, before I make my next truck purchase. They have one more chance with me.
 
Moving on, one asks the question ... if the new 4 tires on truck are now E 245 75 17..... (the stock tires were P255/65R17)
and the spare is P265/70R16 all-season (same rotational diameter as stock)..... ( note that the rim size is 16")
What happens IF I use this spare with the NEW 245's? Do I need to change this spare? Should I buy a new 17" rim (will it fit in the space below) and get an E 245 75 17?
As we say out heah...wicked confusing.
 
I'm certain you meant to say E 245 75 17 in your last line.

255 65 17 = 94.408 inch circumference (stock)
245 75 17 = 98.863 inch circumference (new)
265 70 16 = 96.152 inch circumference (spare)

Ideally, you would replace the spare as well with a E 245 75 17 more so for the E rating.
That being said it is closer to the circumference of the new tires than the stock tires.

It is not a good idea to run a mismatched spare for a long period of time. If you have to, it is best to use it on a non drive axle (i.e. the front end, 4X4 not engaged).

If you have extra money and plan to do a lot of offload, replace the spare if not, you should be fine, just don't run it for any length of time.

explanation: (cut and paste from Popular Mechanics)
because the spare is smaller than the opposing wheel on the same axle, it must turn faster to keep up with the speed of the car, making the differential work to account for the variation. It's as if the car is constantly in a turn. Leave the spare on long enough and the grease lubricating the differential will begin to break down, accelerating wear between the gears and the clutch plates if it's a limited-slip differential. For all these reasons, manufacturers suggest keeping speeds below 50 mph and using the spare tire only for limited distances if possible.
 
Bill, I think your measurements are way off, or I'm misunderstanding them. Those tires are no where near eight feet in diameter.
 
Ace! said:
Bill, I think your measurements are way off, or I'm misunderstanding them. Those tires are no where near eight feet in diameter.
Yah, those calculations are way off. I'll try another online calculator.
The concept will still be exactly the same though.

Those are circumference. Same concept. I'll edit my post to say circumference.
 
Thanks. I will indeed (once I replenish the cookie jar) get a same sized rim/tire. Now I have to be sure that the space beneath is not so tight that it would fit.
 
Having done a little math... the diameters show that the 245 75 17 spare will be 1" wider diameter (then the 16" rim OEM spare). So I will get under the truck and see if I have 1/2" clearance on the radius . Thanks again for the help.
Just measured and it will fit no problem!
 
Just so you know at the end all. 245 75 17 E rates are doing great with no computer issues and TP sensor is accurate. One note for Colorado/Canyon buyers. You can get the dealer to buy back the stock tires. One thing I should have pushed for but I am now doing, is to change the spare. Not only is it a 265 70 16 (same RPM as stock 17") but it is a temporary tire! Worthless on two fronts: the rpm is Wacko if put on rear with the new 245 75 17... As I was told to do from a smart guy above... move it to the front and get it off asap.
I decided to get used aluminum stock wheel rim (found on eBay) and am buying a 245 75 17E for my spare. If you are on a road that you get a flat on an E rated tire it would be nuts to but on a donut...let alone the differential problems. Well that's all folks. Thanks to all who help me parse out this .... your knowledge and wisdom are appreciated...I'll be safer for it.
 
Back
Top Bottom