0976claxton
Member
Anyone have a preference on air compressors? I can't justify the high end compressors (200 bucks). I'm looking for something in the middle of the range (less than 75 bucks).
Air compressors
- Thread starter 0976claxton
- Start date
I have a Slime brand compressor that was about $40 at Walmart. It is 'ok' for a low tire, but I wouldn't want to have to air up four big tires with it. I purchased a Viair 400 to replace the Slime. A much more capable compressor, about $140.
Squatch
Senior Member
Actually $200 is not high end. That's normally the bottom end of decent. The parts store buzz boxes are trash.
This is the best bang for the buck. They are sold under a couple of brand names. Not perfect but impressive for the price. I have one and it will air up my 32" tires from 18 psi to 35 psi in a few minutes for the whole truck. I've actually seated the beads on my boat trailer tires with it after replacing old valve stems.
http://www.amazon.com/Industries-MV50-SuperFlow-High-Volume-Compressor/dp/B000BM8RT8
Lot's of 4wheelers on a budget use them. They have a couple of common problems that are easy to fix and usually have them out of the box if they will. One is they often have a bad crimp on the fuse holder or at the switch on the inside. This makes them draw too much current and blow the fuse. Just cut out the fuse holder in the cable and splice in a good one from the parts store. They are also made so they can be hard mounted under the hood if you want. The air fittings look like normal 1/4NPT but they're not. Some have drilled and tapped them to conventional.
Lots of discussion on these on Expedition portal and other 4x forums.
I had to do the fuse thing on mine and carry a couple of spares. But other than that it's been fine. it's often called on to air up several trucks at the end of a trail ride. Just let it cool down before getting too hot. This goes for most small compressors.
This doesn't work from a lighter plug. It clips on the battery terminals like small jumper cables or a trolling motor.
Hope this helps.
This is the best bang for the buck. They are sold under a couple of brand names. Not perfect but impressive for the price. I have one and it will air up my 32" tires from 18 psi to 35 psi in a few minutes for the whole truck. I've actually seated the beads on my boat trailer tires with it after replacing old valve stems.
http://www.amazon.com/Industries-MV50-SuperFlow-High-Volume-Compressor/dp/B000BM8RT8
Lot's of 4wheelers on a budget use them. They have a couple of common problems that are easy to fix and usually have them out of the box if they will. One is they often have a bad crimp on the fuse holder or at the switch on the inside. This makes them draw too much current and blow the fuse. Just cut out the fuse holder in the cable and splice in a good one from the parts store. They are also made so they can be hard mounted under the hood if you want. The air fittings look like normal 1/4NPT but they're not. Some have drilled and tapped them to conventional.
Lots of discussion on these on Expedition portal and other 4x forums.
I had to do the fuse thing on mine and carry a couple of spares. But other than that it's been fine. it's often called on to air up several trucks at the end of a trail ride. Just let it cool down before getting too hot. This goes for most small compressors.
This doesn't work from a lighter plug. It clips on the battery terminals like small jumper cables or a trolling motor.
Hope this helps.
Advmoto18
Senior Member
Snag a copy of the Gear 2015 issue of OVERLAND JOURNAL. A good article/write-up of air compressors begins on page 53.
Many are above your stated budget.
Be mindful that a $100 pump is going to take 45 - 90 minutes to air up four 295/70x16 tires from 25 to 65 psi for tarmac/highway speeds.
Inexpensive pumps tend to generate A LOT of heat. Heat is the enemy of compressor longevity. If you intend on using the $100 pump frequently, expect to replace it more often than a more costly unit designed to dissipate heat.
As Squatch mentioned, you always want the compressor fused, or better yet, use a relay with a direct connection to the battery.
Many are above your stated budget.
Be mindful that a $100 pump is going to take 45 - 90 minutes to air up four 295/70x16 tires from 25 to 65 psi for tarmac/highway speeds.
Inexpensive pumps tend to generate A LOT of heat. Heat is the enemy of compressor longevity. If you intend on using the $100 pump frequently, expect to replace it more often than a more costly unit designed to dissipate heat.
As Squatch mentioned, you always want the compressor fused, or better yet, use a relay with a direct connection to the battery.
TrapperMike
Advanced Member
+1 for what Squatch said.
That is the compressor I have. It airs up fast compared to the dime store compressors and runs a lot quieter. I have yet to make the mods to it. One mod for sure on a full size truck is to make the electrical cord longer. It is hard to reach the drivers side rear tire on my full size truck without kinking the hose. The hose is rather cheap, so kinking it will really shorten the lifespan.
That is the compressor I have. It airs up fast compared to the dime store compressors and runs a lot quieter. I have yet to make the mods to it. One mod for sure on a full size truck is to make the electrical cord longer. It is hard to reach the drivers side rear tire on my full size truck without kinking the hose. The hose is rather cheap, so kinking it will really shorten the lifespan.
Instead of lengthening the cord I tossed the junky hose that came with it. Then I put a standard air fitting where the original hose came out of the compressor. So I now carry a 25' length of regular air hose with me.TrapperMike said:
But I can see how the electrical cord could be improved. And I need to check out the fuse holder. Or even better just replace it comfortably in my shop instead of dealing with it on the trail!
A couple things I learned while looking for a portable compressor:
1. A compressor with alligator clips pulls more amps which means more power to the compressor. A compressor that only plugs into a cigarette plug will be really slow. If it does not have alligator clips or then save it for inflating pool floaties and bicycle tires.
2. The heat sink on some of the cheaper brands are plastic, which means it is just for looks. E.g. Harbor freight $60 model.
I ended up with a smitty build branded compressor. It was about $80. It takes about 4-5 minutes per tire to go from 25lbs to 60. Not the fastest but it works and I have yet to have it overheat and shut down. I also tested it out on another guys truck by going from 50 to 80 on all four and then filling up his air bags.
It has a 40 minute duty time (time it is suppose to run without overheating). It seems like a decent compromise between my needs and price, but I guess it will really depend on how long it lasts.
1. A compressor with alligator clips pulls more amps which means more power to the compressor. A compressor that only plugs into a cigarette plug will be really slow. If it does not have alligator clips or then save it for inflating pool floaties and bicycle tires.
2. The heat sink on some of the cheaper brands are plastic, which means it is just for looks. E.g. Harbor freight $60 model.
I ended up with a smitty build branded compressor. It was about $80. It takes about 4-5 minutes per tire to go from 25lbs to 60. Not the fastest but it works and I have yet to have it overheat and shut down. I also tested it out on another guys truck by going from 50 to 80 on all four and then filling up his air bags.
It has a 40 minute duty time (time it is suppose to run without overheating). It seems like a decent compromise between my needs and price, but I guess it will really depend on how long it lasts.
JHanson
Senior Member
Please, please change your priorities!
First, tire failure is the number one cause of breakdowns in the field, and having the proper equipment to handle it will make your life infinitely easier.
Second, airing down when traveling off pavement is the single most effective way to enhance your vehicle's traction, increase the comfort of the vehicle's occupants, and reduce wear on both the vehicle and trail. If you have a compressor that takes a half hour to bring your tires back to street pressures, you won't air down in the first place. I've watched it happen again and again, and heard the same excuses.
Squatch is correct that your 'middle of the range' is really the bottom of the heap. The compressor he suggested is decent, although the owners I know have hugely varied luck with them—they either last well or pack up soon after purchase, indicating very poor quality control. For a hard-mount compressor, the two heavier-duty ARB units are very good; for a portable unit, anything from Extreme Outback is excellent; Viair also makes a huge selection of high-quality models.
The corollary to airing up is reducing pressure in the first place. Using your Swiss Army Knife works, but a proper deflation tool is as useful as a good compressor. I discussed better ways to air down here.
Foy
Resident Geologist
Having burned up "n" cheap compressors, I am firmly within the camp which says "some tools are worth what you pay for them" .
My present portable is a Smittybilt Model 2781 5.65 CFM. The last compressor I burned up was a Smittybilt Model 2780, a 2.45 CFM unit. I'm not certain what the duty cycle on the 2781 is (maybe 45 min or so?), but it's an upgrade from the 2780, from which I managed to procure a 2nd degree burn on my index finger on the day it seized up due to overheating. The 2781 airs my tires up from 18-20 psi to 50 psi in just a handful of minutes per tire, so the thought of not airing down due to a lengthy time being needed to air back up rarely occurs.
The 2781 does get hot, so it must still be handled carefully after it's been run, but I haven't managed to burn it out yet.
It retails for around $150 but most retailers frequently offer substantial sale discount prices. I think I ended up with just over $100 in mine, after some sort of coupon or other discount.
Foy
My present portable is a Smittybilt Model 2781 5.65 CFM. The last compressor I burned up was a Smittybilt Model 2780, a 2.45 CFM unit. I'm not certain what the duty cycle on the 2781 is (maybe 45 min or so?), but it's an upgrade from the 2780, from which I managed to procure a 2nd degree burn on my index finger on the day it seized up due to overheating. The 2781 airs my tires up from 18-20 psi to 50 psi in just a handful of minutes per tire, so the thought of not airing down due to a lengthy time being needed to air back up rarely occurs.
The 2781 does get hot, so it must still be handled carefully after it's been run, but I haven't managed to burn it out yet.
It retails for around $150 but most retailers frequently offer substantial sale discount prices. I think I ended up with just over $100 in mine, after some sort of coupon or other discount.
Foy
northshorehenry
Advanced Member
I have one of the cheaper $50 types. Takes way too long to do even one big truck tire (about 15 to 20 minutes). Now multiply that by four. How much is your time worth? I burnt mine out with light use in exactly 11 months, one month inside the warranty period. When this one burns out as well, I'll be investing in a much better quality pump in the $200 range.
Sent from my iPad using Wander The West
Sent from my iPad using Wander The West
Stalking Light
Feral Grandpa
I've had a variety of compressors over the years and burnt out a few. I finally had a Viar 450P which worked very well and then when I put air lockers on my Tacoma I added an ARB high capacity on board unit. If it's an option I'd recommend going on board, much handier to use and you don't have to worry about where to carry it.
smlobx
Lost again
I've been thinking about doing this for my F-350 camper build but I am wondering how well it can survive bolted to the frame...I mean it is subject to water, mud etc.Stalking Light said:
Any comments?
Stalking Light
Feral Grandpa
Mine's mounted up under the hood close to the battery and then I have a quick connect in the fender well so I don't have to raise the hood to use it. It's been OK so far and has seen a lot of rain but not much mud.smlobx said:
Squatch
Senior Member
My long term plans are to use an engine mounted York AC compressor. Converted for the purpose. I've already got a small tank that I can use for a pressure tank.
For the handy types there are some fun alternatives. I have a friend who uses the factory compressor from a Lincoln with airbag suspension. He uses it to run his ARB air lockers.
For the handy types there are some fun alternatives. I have a friend who uses the factory compressor from a Lincoln with airbag suspension. He uses it to run his ARB air lockers.
0976claxton
Member
My priorities have been firmly recalibrated. Thank you gentleman for the responses so far.
Advmoto18
Senior Member
I prefer the ARB manual deflator.
Automatic deflators are kind of like the 3 auto pilots in the Boeing 777 I use to pilot. They work GREAT, most of the time! But, I'm not taking my eyes off them for a nano second when an auto-land is required due to very, very low and in some cases, zero visibility. Likewise, I doubt I'd trust an auto-deflator to do its job without me observing. Yes, I have the compressor, but if Mr Murphy is there to mess up my auto deflator, no telling what he did to my compressor!
No doubt my opinion is based on decades of vocational indoctrination as an airline pilot/captain. I'm simply not willing to commit 100% to anything automatic. Product automation does make life easier, but, I doubt I will ever get to unattended automatic.
With over 10,000 landings and touch-n-go's, I can count on one hand the times I auto-landed the airplane!
Automatic deflators are kind of like the 3 auto pilots in the Boeing 777 I use to pilot. They work GREAT, most of the time! But, I'm not taking my eyes off them for a nano second when an auto-land is required due to very, very low and in some cases, zero visibility. Likewise, I doubt I'd trust an auto-deflator to do its job without me observing. Yes, I have the compressor, but if Mr Murphy is there to mess up my auto deflator, no telling what he did to my compressor!
No doubt my opinion is based on decades of vocational indoctrination as an airline pilot/captain. I'm simply not willing to commit 100% to anything automatic. Product automation does make life easier, but, I doubt I will ever get to unattended automatic.
With over 10,000 landings and touch-n-go's, I can count on one hand the times I auto-landed the airplane!
chnlisle
Post Master
This is what I use.
ntsqd
Custom User Title
I carry an MV-50 compressor in every off-pavement capable vehicle. In the CTD it is back-up for the OBA and in the Bronc-up it will eventually also be back-up for the OBA. In the Yota it is the primary air source, however I've never taken it below 20 psi (see below) & given the weight of that truck I can drive, slowly, on the pavement at that pressure should the compressor fail.
I lucked onto one of these with a 20 psi setting and made my own deflator with a locking air chuck.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9024k11/=10d3zw3
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6140a62/=10d41zi
For the CTD I'm going to try these with their lowest pressure spring:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#50265k23/=10d40u2
With these air chucks:
http://www.plews-edelmann.com/chucks/#
p/n: 17-373
Why make my own? Frankly none of the commercial products are all that impressive to me. they're either very simple air-letter-outers or they're pretty expensive for what they are.
I lucked onto one of these with a 20 psi setting and made my own deflator with a locking air chuck.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9024k11/=10d3zw3
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6140a62/=10d41zi
For the CTD I'm going to try these with their lowest pressure spring:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#50265k23/=10d40u2
With these air chucks:
http://www.plews-edelmann.com/chucks/#
p/n: 17-373
Why make my own? Frankly none of the commercial products are all that impressive to me. they're either very simple air-letter-outers or they're pretty expensive for what they are.
nikonron
Senior Member
I too just deflate my tires manually, I'm not in that big of a hurry when I'm out where I want to be! 
Ron
RonWhat did I miss? My air gauge has a deflation button. Push to deflate and read gauge, not ornate or difficult.
Gotta ask what. What is "CTD, OBA and Yota"? Just curious.
Lastly, size and weight of compressor do come second to performance; performance is irrelevant if the compressor is too big or heavy to carry.
The 'Puma' looks great but too large for my application.
Phil
Gotta ask what. What is "CTD, OBA and Yota"? Just curious.
Lastly, size and weight of compressor do come second to performance; performance is irrelevant if the compressor is too big or heavy to carry.
The 'Puma' looks great but too large for my application.
Phil
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