Building a portable Power Box - last updates

Stokeme

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2015
Messages
374
Location
NorCal
With electrical DIY I am ”pretty” good if I have a recipe. Fully understanding the overall, initial design, not so good. I have been looking at YouTube for ideas. Most videos seem like guys trying to outdo one another. I think my needs are fairly simple. Here are my perceived needs & requirements ...
I have a canoe that is close to completion with electric motor. I need a plug & play box for fishing power. I am looking at a CF 18 Dometic 12v Fridge to use as a dedicated freezer, my Bride likes ice. The CF 18 could also be used as a boat-in, shore camp fridge. I may want to be able to remove, & power, my Dometic CFX 50 from my Camper. I may want to place it in a bear box when applicable.

Components - MTM ammo box - external pos/neg Battery posts, external SAE socket port, external cigarette socket port, (maybe external USB socket) - internal 50Ah BT LiFePo4 battery, internal small 20A solar controller w/lithium capable.

Questions - Should I use in-line fuses for everything or install a small internal fuse box? The internal battery connection to the external battery posts will be short (6-8”?), will 8 AWG wire be ok, (I have some xtra), or does Battery to external power posts require 6 AWG? The solar controller, the cigarette socket, maybe a USB port all need to be connected to the battery (along with the B to post connection), how can I configure wiring, so I do not have to just stack everything on top of each other? Do I need an external power switch (or any other switches)? If switches are needed, please offer additional wiring advice. What AWG requirements do I need to consider? Am I missing something?

I bought some small vents to install on the box. I have seen external voltage meters installed, I’ve got BT. I’ve seen external LED strips installed. Don’t see a need for these extras. I could use any advice, thanks ....
 
Here’s a setup to consider:
Powerwerx PowerBox to hold battery, provide connectors, switches, fuses, voltmeter.
Bioenno LiFePO4 battery of size that meets your needs.
Bioenno MPPT 20 amp charge controller
Bioenno folding solar panel suitcase.

Solar & Portable Power | Powerwerx
https://www.bioennopower.com/products/12v-24v-20a-solar-charge-controller-mppt-for-lifepo4-batteries

You could add a Bluetooth LiFePO4 battery monitor if desired.
PowerMon - Bluetooth LE Advanced Battery Monitor / DC Power Meter with data logging

I acquired one of these two months ago for camping/ham radio use and have been pleased with it thus far. In addition to powering my ham gear, I wanted it to be a backup for my camper fridge if solar was scarce due to weather or shaded campsite.

I could have done a DIY project for lower cost, but time to design & finish YetAnotherElectronicProject pushed me more to keeping stress level down in my camping buddy. :). This way, I know everything works together and parts are available. I got the 30 amp Hour battery but the case can accommodate up to a 50 aH battery if needed and I can use all the aH energy unlike AGM where only half is advised.

Paul
 
Touché, re the camping buddy, patience too. :)
I got all the parts ready now (I think), just need to make efficient & prudent wiring scheme. I want it to come together sooner than later.
 
Stokeme said:
Questions - Should I use in-line fuses for everything or install a small internal fuse box?
- Which is easier/simpler for you? Inline waterproof fuses would mean you don't need to open the box and try and spot the blown fuse

The internal battery connection to the external battery posts will be short (6-8”?), will 8 AWG wire be ok, (I have some xtra), or does Battery to external power posts require 6 AWG?
- Bigger IS better in this case, but really... over 8" you won't notice a voltage drop difference. What's your maximum expected current draw? That might be a determining factor

The solar controller, the cigarette socket, maybe a USB port all need to be connected to the battery (along with the B to post connection), how can I configure wiring, so I do not have to just stack everything on top of each other?
- What's wrong with stacking? That's only 3-5 connectors. If needed, get a battery terminal that can accommodate lots of connectors

Do I need an external power switch (or any other switches)? Don't think so. I would consider fuses inside the battery box for the cig socket and USB port.

If switches are needed, please offer additional wiring advice. What AWG requirements do I need to consider?
12-14 AWG should be good enough for each "accessory" plug

Am I missing something?
- Aren't we all? :oops:

I bought some small vents to install on the box. I have seen external voltage meters installed, I’ve got BT. I’ve seen external LED strips installed. Don’t see a need for these extras.
- Agreed

I could use any advice, thanks ....
 
Finally gave this a go. It’s pretty basic, definitely not YouTube sexy. Added 2 vents. Just need to secure the Battery while being able to view the controller screen. Not quite sure how to do that well?
Overall I am happy to have renewable, portable power with a little plug in flexibility. Powering my DIY electric fishing canoe for sure. I may (will probably) swap out the single 12V socket for a threesome insert ... Socket, USB/V & Switch. I like the idea of a switch so it’s not “live” all the time. I replaced & stepped up my solar controller a bit with a Renogy Voyager. It has a distinct LFP4 setting & is small enough for the box. It is PWM though, not MPPT.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QR3C8N2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?Psmid=ARJSICEVESDQN&psc=1

Three in-line fuses ..... solar controller to Battery, solar panel to controller, 12V socket to Battery. What amp fuse to use for each individual need? The in-line holders came standard with 30amp.
1) I will get a ~25W panel for trickle use in my canoe. My 100W portable camper panel will be used to charge.
2) The 12V socket might employ a 12V Dometic CF25 as a freezer. Maybe in a bear box overnight for my Dometic CFX50.
3) PWM controller to Battery
I could use some fuse suggestions ...
 

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Inside view. 12awg & soft flex 5awg for the Battery terminals.
 

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Nice job Stokeme:)

10A should be a good size for each of your items. The fridge will likely not draw more that 4-5 amps at it's highest usage. Most cigarette plugs are rated for 10A. I made a similar box with a 50Ah Renogy LiFeP04 and a Wanderer controller. Works well for my Truckfridge and charging misc phones/tablets. I also have a 300w pure sine inverter for charging the laptop:) Haven't used that except to see if it came on.....

With that 5AWG you can pull a ton of current. Battery fuse should be 30A. I doubt you will ever blow that. You could go higher especially if you decided to use an inverter. I know my Renogy battery will dump 100A if I need to but I have a 40A on it and have never gotten close to pulling that yet :) Inverter will get close if I push it.....

Hope it all works out for you:)
 
Thanks Happyjax for the helpful & useful info. With my electrical projects (never have I attempted so many) I can research what I want to accomplish & what’s needed, glean the best assembly tips, without always knowing every intricacy.
 
FE264775-E764-42E6-B748-FD71430DA91D.jpeg353413D0-F654-4493-AD21-DEABEF965238.jpeg

I am happy I added this threesome. It gives the Box one more accessory option, a switch option & an external V indicator. It adds to the aesthetics as well. The previous solo socket looked spartan & maybe lonely :(
 
58A66954-B879-4863-888B-809AC2D3FBE8.jpeg

Interior wiring pic. I highly recommend the above product/link (post #6) for the triple accessory mount. It came prewired, with an in-line 10A fuse, which I was not expecting, pretty nice. 12awg wire (the connectors are very light weight). I wish this had been my initial purchase. For those who have interest, If I can do this anyone can manage. Battery is sealed but I wanted some ventilation anyway.
My product list .....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VL11CCJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
12V 50AH LiFePo4 Battery
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAB9U7A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ISKM9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KR88A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PN8CWLW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Solo Cig socket - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LZWAZFC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are very heavy duty, I like, but max for sure - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7YYSHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Got 2” “push-in” vents from Lowe’s. Borrowed a 2” (vents) & a 1 1/8” hole saw (accessory strip).
 
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10/25/19 ... PS ... initially I did not post my LFP4 brand, I am no spokesman. To each their own. But considering the size of the Battery, it was a determining factor that did enable me to construct this box. I have iterations of this same battery tech with a past company. I can only offer ... so far, so good, all batteries function at a high level. It has Bluetooth which saves having to add a monitor. The specs are live. I find that to be pretty neat. Size - 7.7” x 6.5” x 6.9”
- I checked & this coupon code still works ... Save10

https://buylithium.com/product/12v-50ah-lithium-battery/
 
This box is very cool but thinking out loud I wonder how it would have worked if you separated the box from the battery. The box could be used with any battery that was handy as long as it was the correct chemistry, even in the camper so you wouldn't have to hard wire a bunch of stuff that you're only using two weeks a year.
 
The power box was built to be, independent, portable energy storage. It’s Solar renewable & has accessory input flexibility. It needs to be light, for its primary intended purpose, to power an electric DIY fishing canoe. Another Battery chemistry could be used but would not fit the Box with the same Ah capacity, weight & size, I want. My Camper has good Ah storage on its own. I do not plan to separate the Battery from Box unless my Camper energy system is compromised.
 
Yes, that would be a Big Boy Battery Box. Congrats on your Camper. I meant to post a Bundutec reply, a while back, but got tied up with Family Life & forgot. You are better off with this LFP4 battery long term. Hope Santa brings your Camper.
 
Thanks ... My first exterior accessory mount was only a 12V cig socket. The triple accessory mount I added later does have 2 USB ports, above & below, included in with the 12V LED Display. If you tap on the right most pic, in post #10, & enlarge the view, you can see them. My Bad, I never mentioned them as an accessory option of the triple mount & they are not obvious at first glance.
 
Here's the two solar charged battery boxes I'm making .

(I ended up with two, because one of the 35ah agm batteries I bought from Amazon came with a bent terminal and they sent me another one and told me to dispose of the battery. but I was able to re drill the hole on the terminal and it works, so...).

On my ATC I have 160w solar panel.

This battery box is for emergencies when they turn off the power in our area etc and for my mobile ham radio station.

The solar panel is a renogy 100w suitcase panel.

I am thinking of installing an inverter to power a coffee pot, since I'm lazy.

Any ideas or recommendations for an inverter?
 

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